I've seen so many questions lately about buying DB's I Thought that this would be helpful for some Newbies to get a better idea on how to do it.Hope this is helpful.
Eleven Tips For A Player Or Parent To Buy A Better DB
1. Set aside time
Allow 1 or 2 hours in a week for the process of looking at instruments and/or bows. The process will be more enjoyable and educational without time pressure. The process has three elements: 1) Discovery - involves learning how a better DB can enable you to develop your sound - its quality, tone colors, expression and response; 2) Defining your taste and needs - requires you to ask yourself several questions: what kind of instrument suits your needs best, whether it be for playing in orchestra, doing solos or playing for your own enjoyment? 3) Learning to communicate what you hear to the professionals so they can determine whether changes can be made that will help in finding the "right" violin. Sound will be affected by a change in strings or bridge and a soundpost adjustment. If you like certain things about an instrument or bow, but not others, talk about this with whomever is helping you. It will help you get what you want in the most efficient way.
2. Determine the appropriate quality or price range of the instrument
Discuss with your teacher what level of instrument they would like to see you playing. The teacher knows what progress you are making and how the present instrument may be holding you back. They also can gauge future needs. The teacher may also be aware of price vs. value and be able to give guidance as to what price range of instrument you should be considering for purchase.
3. Plan ahead
Have a price range in mind when you call to make an appointment to see instruments. That way the shop you are dealing with can get instruments in that range ready for you to consider. If you don't want to spend more than a certain dollar amount make sure to tell this to the seller. For the education of your ear or for your curiosity, you may want to ask to hear instruments in the next range up or down.
4. Determine the shop's policies for trying instruments
Ask the shop if they have a "trial policy", i.e. if you really like an instrument, can you take it out of the shop for a set length of time to show it to your teacher, play it in orchestra or a concert hall? Whatever factors are important to your decision-making, determine whether they will fit into your "trial period". For example: Will your teacher be in town to give you feedback; can you get into a hall if projection of sound is important?
5. Trade-in policy
Ask about the trade-in policy of the shop. If in the future you need a better quality instrument or a larger size, what value will your present purchase be given in a trade situation? Also try to determine what selection the shop has available in the range or size that might be the next step-up if trading is important to you.
6. Build a long-term relationship with the seller
Buying a DB is not like buying a pair of shoes. You don't make your purchase, use it until it wears out and then get a new one. Fine stringed instruments are designed to last hundreds of years and, in a sense, you are just a custodian of that instrument for a number of years. During that time, you will need a repairperson to make certain your instrument is healthy and sounding its best. It is in your best interest if the seller provides this service, especially if the seller offers 100% trade in value. In that way the seller will have an interest in the upkeep of your instrument and will keep you advised of whatever is necessary to maintain its value.
7. Purchase good value
Buy a fine DB from someone who has something at stake in being honest and providing good value, such as a good reputation in the community, a business relationship with your teacher or a personal relationship. Value of fine instruments is based on four things: origin, quality of craftsmanship, condition and sound. In most instances, the buyer is quite dependent on the seller's expertise and perspective on the market place to price instruments and bows accordingly. Unfortunately, there is no Blue Book or Consumer's Report for violin values.
8. Include your teacher in the process
Your teacher wants you to do your best, not only technically - in learning the instrument - but also in being able to musically express him or herself. Having the right tools, i.e. violin and bow, is crucial to this process. The wrong instrument may result in injury, frustration and lack of motivation. Most teachers will give guidance in this process of choosing an instrument, as having an appropriate instrument and bow plays an important part in their success. Please pay your teacher for any time outside of lesson time that they spend helping you. Some shops pay teacher commissions. If a teacher is advising you and getting paid by the seller, you (the buyer) should know this in advance and it should be discussed openly so that you get the best possible guidance and advice.
9. Planning payment for a fine DB
Check to see whether the shop has any financing or can refer you to a bank that understands violin purchases. By the time you have made your decision, be ready to tell the shop how you wish to pay for the instrument. If you wait until you fall in love with one, you may be left trying to beg, borrow or steal the purchase price and considerable heartache will ensue if your plans don't materialize.
10. The bow
A bow makes a big difference in the way a stringed instrument sounds and responds. Once you've decided on an instrument, play through bows to find the one that sounds the best on the instrument and responds the best for the player.
11. Don't forget a protective case/Bag
The value of your new instrument and bow is only as secure as the case. Determine how much risk you need to guard against and choose carefully. Be sure to ask about what materials it is made of, suspension features and warranties.

Thanks reedo. As someone in the market for a real bass, your post is very helpful. Thank you for taking the time to post it.

And to think this was accomplished witout a moderator...

Bump!

Thanks Chris. Good Idea!

Originally posted by reedo35
I've seen so many questions lately about buying DB's I Thought that this would be helpful for some Newbies to get a better idea on how to do it.Hope this is helpful.
Eleven Tips For A Player Or Parent To Buy A Better DB

Do you mind if I stick that on a page, attribute it to you (give me any info you'd like), and link it to my Links page?? A common question that needs an easily accessible answer.

Bumped! Hi guys, I'm back! :)

Welcome back. I hope you were able to get settled in without too many problems.
Mark

Nice to see you.

Ditto that, it's been awhile. Oh, and since you've been gone so long, I should probably mention that it's best not to mention the words "penetrating oil" around SNUFFGUPPIE these days...it makes him shift from foot to foot like he has to go to the bathroom or something.

Personally, I don't understand what that's all about, but it's creepy just the same....

There is so very much about ROUGHTUBBY that frightens me. So very very much.








i'm going to weep now.

It sounds to me like some fetishes have developed in my absence that I am better off not exploring further. I take a little hiatus and look what happens!Now DURRL and DONOSAUR are moderators!:eek:
What next! ;)

You know as soon as I read what you had written I went straight to here:

http://www.givensviolins.com/audition/tips.asp

and of course it looks like the same text to me (with a few modifications).

Perhaps you are the original author of the text or you work for that shop?

Adrian

ALIEN BLOW

Does it really matter? Reedo's posts have helped many of us here make better-informed decisions about our REAL BASSES. I'm pretty darn grateful to all the experienced guys here who'll share any info with us...they don't have to, y'know? Let's not get nit-picky.

Reedo has indeed been a quite a good source of info, and I'm sure many people have benefited, but give credit where it's due, right? Does it really matter? Not really...but still.....

If Givens Violins took it from Reedo, I hope they asked him permission, because it obviously took alot of time and effort to produce something like that. And if he took it from them, a mention would have been good, for exactly the same reasons. Kudos to him for bringing into the eyes of bassists still, though.

up

Bump.

Is this a hint Chris?!? ;)

Nah. I was responding to a newbie when I dug this up. You'll know it's a hint for you when I bump the "Christopher Basses" thread.

hey reedo, any good shops for me to check out an upright for an amatuer/intermediate upright jazz bass? posted a thread on this, but realized this sticky was posted. Either way, im using a school Englehardt and finding while I like ONE of the englehardts (as it's decently setup), what would be a better bass or one thats just as good that I can buy and proudly say I "own"???

Any help is... helpful:)

Is it common to buy the bass before the bow? Does it really matter which comes first if you're happy with it?

Originally posted by ole Jason
Is it common to buy the bass before the bow? Does it really matter which comes first if you're happy with it? it's common. I would reccomend buying a bow with the bass though. Unless you're playing jazz, 98% you will need a bow, whereas in jazz 99% of the time it's without a bow.

Classical - You will need the bow
Jazz - it's reccomended you buy one and practice with it for better intonation etc, but it's not 'entirely' necessary.

Edit: jazz is played without a bow. I "meant" to 'practice' scales and disciplinary routines with a bow.

That is such great advice for those of us that are electric players...and dont even know where to begin when looking for a double bass! I have looked around and i'd say i've played about 6 different basses, now this is my first bass and my price range is about 1500-2000. Now i've played mainly plywoods in that range and the last three i played, were the same brand of bass and they felt really great and i had them played for me and they all had different tones but all rich tones. they were i think 1900, and they were plywood basses. Now for my first bass is a plywood the good way to go? Or do you think would it be more worth my while to look for a differnet wood? or is there nothing wrong with a starter plywood bass, ahh..as you can see... lol help! ha
-Katy
Also Kay basses, there was a blonde Kay for i think 1500 ... would that be a good bass to try?

Originally posted by BerkleeBassGirl
That is such great advice for those of us that are electric players...and dont even know where to begin when looking for a double bass! I have looked around and i'd say i've played about 6 different basses, now this is my first bass and my price range is about 1500-2000. Now i've played mainly plywoods in that range and the last three i played, were the same brand of bass and they felt really great and i had them played for me and they all had different tones but all rich tones. they were i think 1900, and they were plywood basses. Now for my first bass is a plywood the good way to go? Or do you think would it be more worth my while to look for a differnet wood? or is there nothing wrong with a starter plywood bass, ahh..as you can see... lol help! ha
-Katy
Also Kay basses, there was a blonde Kay for i think 1500 ... would that be a good bass to try?

In your price range, I think plywood is probably not only the best option, but maybe the only option. Any carved bass in that price point is either going to be of questionable materials or in need of a great deal of work.

Plywoods may have limitations tonally, (although many sound very good) but they make for great starter basses. They are durable and thus easier to take care of. They are also less susceptible to the elements and seasonal humidity changes.

If you are out playing them and getting a sense of what you like and don't like, you are on the right track. Especially if you are accompanied by someone else who knows a little bit about basses.

There is nothing wrong with Kay basses. They are quite desirable in some circuits. Just be aware that even the very newest Kays are approaching 40 years old and many are 60-70 years old and are still circulating.

If you choose to consider a Kay, the best advice is to make every effort to have the bass looked over by an experienced and trustworthy third party. A $1,500 bass can easily turn into a $3,000 bass with a couple of extensive repairs.

Chas

Greetings,

Yes, you are correct! I am really new at this DB thing. I play the electric Bass but have been leaning towards the DB. Problem is, I know nothing about them. I have read the threads for hours now!

Please explain the size structure of these Double Basses. 1/8-1/2-4/4? Don't have a clue. Does it have anything to do with the Scale of the instrument?

Trust me. There will be many more questions from me! Thank you everybody.

runeight........

[QUOTE=runeight]Please explain the size structure of these Double Basses. 1/8-1/2-4/4? Don't have a clue. Does it have anything to do with the Scale of the instrument?[QUOTE]

As borrowed from a previous post by our own Herr Branstetter:

The smaller instruments of the violin family have be standardized for quite a long time. However, basses have not and there are a lot of grey areas as far as what size a particular instrument is. Although basses are not standardized as far as sizes go, here are some typical string lengths and body lengths for a given size (from the George Boran book Making a Bass Viol).

Size ----- String Length ------ Body Length
4/4........1100mm (43.3")......1200mm
7/8........1075mm (42.3")......1133mm
3/4........1050mm (41.3")......1100mm
1/2.........965mm (38.0")......1020mm
1/4.........900mm (35.4").......935mm

Greetings,

I have been searching for that answer for days!

runeight

Greetings,

Without going into detail, would you please tell me the do's and don'ts when shopping for a DB. I usually purchase quality instruments. It took me 50 plus years to realize "you get what you pay for". I would prefer a solid top, sides and back. Really not to interested in "plywood" models either. Low humidity here in the great state of Arizona.

My budget is between $1200 to $1500 dollars.

Thank you for any and all replies...

runeight

Greetings,

Without going into detail, would you please tell me the do's and don'ts when shopping for a DB. I usually purchase quality instruments. It took me 50 plus years to realize "you get what you pay for". I would prefer a solid top, sides and back. Really not to interested in "plywood" models either. Low humidity here in the great state of Arizona.

My budget is between $1200 to $1500 dollars.

Thank you for any and all replies...

runeight
Lessee, without going into any detail...
A quality, carved bass with a $12-1500 budget....hmmmmmm..

I'd say, look for one of those elderly matrons with a recently deceased bassist husband, who has absolutely no idea what those damn bass fiddles out in the garage are worth, and turn on the charm.

Prayer might help too.

That's a pretty tough price range for a fully carved bass. If you're patient and don't mind driving to look at things, then you may find an older bass in that price range that's pretty darn good. It will just take time. And like Ed Funkwand says, tell everybody and their sister that you're looking for a bass, maybe one will pop up that way. Doubling or tripling your allowance will definitely help. You might want to reconsider a good quality hybrid, there is some respectable stuff on the market.

Shouldn't this be in "Basses"?

Shouldn't this be in "Basses"?
+1
+ sticky

i think people know most of this but are unsure where to find the right bass for them

i think people know most of this but are unsure where to find the right bass for them

Actually, I don't think newbies know a fraction of the valuable information here, let alone "most" of it. As to where to find a bass, there are numerous links and suggestions in the collection of newbie links.