GrooveWarrior
10-19-2005, 01:28 PM
My brother-in-law is having a hard time finding something to apply tung oil with that doesn't leave something behind. He is getting little pieces of the cloth left in the finish. Any suggestions?
|
This is a search-engine-friendly text mirror of the TalkBass Forums GrooveWarrior 10-19-2005, 01:28 PM My brother-in-law is having a hard time finding something to apply tung oil with that doesn't leave something behind. He is getting little pieces of the cloth left in the finish. Any suggestions? Basschair 10-19-2005, 01:34 PM I went to a professional paint supply and got these sponges that are enclosed in a synthetic mesh. It will soak up the oil out of a bowl and allow for it to be spread without leaving fibers behind. Geoff St. Germaine 10-19-2005, 02:06 PM I use foam brushes. Phil Mastro 10-19-2005, 02:37 PM I use old t-shirt sleeves. Hambone 10-19-2005, 03:51 PM This weekend, I was using a lot of brown paper bags to oil up some knobs I was making. It worked like a charm. tjclem 10-20-2005, 05:08 AM old sheets....t GrooveWarrior 10-20-2005, 05:42 AM Last night he started using pieces of old t-shirts he had cut up and it was working pretty well. On a side note, are there any woods that oil DOESN'T work particularly well on? kjbrowne 10-20-2005, 07:01 AM Petrified :p Hambone 10-20-2005, 10:42 AM Last night he started using pieces of old t-shirts he had cut up and it was working pretty well. On a side note, are there any woods that oil DOESN'T work particularly well on? Oily woods like ebony - at least for me. Duck Hunt 10-20-2005, 12:42 PM If its tung oil...you can actually just use your hand. Make sure you wash your hand before and after! Sean T-34 10-20-2005, 01:11 PM My brother-in-law is having a hard time finding something to apply tung oil with that doesn't leave something behind. He is getting little pieces of the cloth left in the finish. Any suggestions? I don't care: anyway, everything's going to be wiped off 30 min later and steelwooled away from the surface... FBB Custom 10-20-2005, 05:42 PM Most tung oils you find off the shelf are blended with solvents. I know there are people who apply with their bare hands but I just don't get it. Why expose yourself to more of these chemicals than you have to? I use lint-free rags or t-shirts in a pinch. The shop I just moved out of came with a 5lb roll of lint-free cloth. Hambone nailed it - oily woods don't take more oil very well. Cocobolo in particular is bad that way, plus the color bleeds into nearby maple. Duck Hunt 10-20-2005, 07:58 PM Pure natural tung oil is fine, just rub it in with your palm ;-) Sean PaleMelanesian 10-21-2005, 09:03 AM Old T-shirt pieces. And oil didn't work too well on Cocobolo for me - took weeks to dry. And, as FBB said, my applicator cloth (blue) ended up red. CaptainVictory 10-22-2005, 01:42 PM How about padouk? FBB Custom 10-22-2005, 11:35 PM Padauk drinks up oil better than cocobolo, but the color sure does run. Padauk dust is a real b**ch - the stuff never comes out of your clothes. CaptainVictory 10-23-2005, 07:54 AM I know. It also gave me a nasty rashm PilbaraBass 10-23-2005, 05:52 PM Most tung oils you find off the shelf are blended with solvents. I know there are people who apply with their bare hands but I just don't get it. Why expose yourself to more of these chemicals than you have to? I use lint-free rags or t-shirts in a pinch. The shop I just moved out of came with a 5lb roll of lint-free cloth. Hambone nailed it - oily woods don't take more oil very well. Cocobolo in particular is bad that way, plus the color bleeds into nearby maple. hmmmm...i was thinking of applying tung oil to a curly maple/purpleheart bass....would there be any issues of the purpleheart bleeding into the adjacent maple? purpleheart does not seem to be an oily wood...and from what i've seen by applying lemon oil to the fingerboard, accepts oil well... anyone with thoughts or experience with this? FBB Custom 10-24-2005, 10:32 AM Purpleheart should be okay. Dugz Ink 10-24-2005, 10:53 AM Purpleheart is an oily wood... unless it has been baked to death. (Heating it usually causes it to "sweat" oil, even after coming out of a kiln.) It will "accept" oil, but that doesn't mean that "oil" finishes will harden properly. One of my first attempts to use commercial "tung oil" (not the pure stuff) was on a gunstock that was made from Bastone Walnut and Purpleheart. After the first coat, the Walnut already looked nice, but I never could get the finish to harden over the Purpleheart. Also, if you don't seal Purpleheart, it will eventually turn a brownish color, with a hint of dark purple. I read an article once about a great sealer for Purpleheart, but I can't find the article and I can't remember the product. As far as applying commercial "tung oil" products, I usually use a lint-fre piece of cloth. That applies very thin coats, which is the what I prefer. erikbojerik 10-24-2005, 04:49 PM I use a square of T-shirt 3" x 3" with a single cotton ball inside, wrap the cloth around the cotton and tie up with a twist-tie. Cotton T-shirt works fine, but polypropylene is virtually lint-free. A lot of outdoor clothing, expensive stuff like you get at REI, is made of polypro. jwymore 10-24-2005, 06:10 PM Cheesecloth and then hand rubbed as it begins to set up ... |