I've had Dominant D and G on my bass for 2 weeks now and have actually really enjoyed them. Coming from Eudoxa's, the tone is almost as fat, and slightly more defined. They also play a lot easier.

However, my D string just broke!!! I've heard of people having these problems....

Any experience with this?

Thanks,
Brian

Did the metal wound part reach the peg?
This must be avoided to prevent breakage.
Other factors involved: the nut and bridge grooves, also lubrication (I use a 8B pencil).

I used pencil on the nut.

Actually the string broke at the purple wrapping in the peg box....not near the peg though...

I had a similar experience with the E, and I had read the comments that they can break in this area more often than they should. I've not had the set on for very long, so I e-mailed Thomastik and they sent me a new one.

I like the strings very much, but if they keep breaking I may look elsewhere.

It's sad that people keep having these strings break -- the sound of Dominants darkens and sweetens in a very nice way as they get older. My set has been on for about half a year now, and I like them more and more all the time. Particularly striking is the way the bowed response improves over time. The strings do lose a bit of sustain, though. Watch out for that if you're into the Spirocore sound.

I agree, great strings for many different reasons, and a much overlooked hybrid string. The E on my bass broke right at the end of the upper silks. I don't see any reason for that to happen.

They do have a good bit of sustain. I wish they actually had a little less. I'm not looking for full-blown arco string, but towards that direction.

The volume of the Dominant's are great. Big sound.

After countless takings on and off for comparison with other strings, my Dominant D broke. The break occurred between the nut and the peg. I took a look at the string under a magnifying glass, and I'll be darned if it appears that the core ends where the silk starts, but it's hard to tell. There are some strands of something perlon looking at the break, but mainly it looks like inner metal wrap only. Anyway, it seems to me that the problem is due to the unique construction rather than QC. I imagine that the high level of stretch that happens above the nut just causes the string to fatigue at that point after many de-tuninging and re-tunings. I guess the same thing could happen to someone who pulls the heck out of the string with some strong right hand pizz. Because of the stiffness of the vibrating length of string, you can actually see the string moving across the nut when you pizz, probably stretching the silk portion of the string more than the metal wrapped portion.
-Jon

I installed my first set of Dominants last week - and the D string broke yesterday (it broke at the post, half-way through the length of thread). When you add this to their high tension - compared to what I'm used to - and the ongoing nasal sound, I've never been so unhappy with a set of strings. I'll give them another couple of weeks to improve, but if they don't, they're off.

All this contrasts with the Corellis I installed on my Eminence (on the same day). I love 'em on that bass - which is used mainly for pizz.

is anyone from Thomastik reading this? i guess the free advertising they get from enthusiastic users here offsets all the people who would've tried Dominants except for reading about that breakage issue... sad, i think, that they haven't solved that problem by now. :scowl:

That problem is not new.
They get lots of complaints and comments about this, but, AFAIK, never did anything about it.

Well, kerrapp...I eagerly put my new Dominant E on this morning and before it was even fully up to tension it broke, just below the tuning peg.

Darn...I have had no problems with the other three and was looking forward to trying out the full set. I guess I'll stick to my trusty Spiro Orch. E for now - I do like the other Dominants, though.

What did all you others do with the broken string? Return them to the supplier...or Thomastik...or...?

What did all you others do with the broken string? Return them to the supplier...or Thomastik...or...?
I was think about sending my broken D string somewhere, but I'm holding off to see if I continue using Dominants. To me, there's no point in getting a replacement string if the rest of the set is coming off. A waste of money? Perhaps. But a lesson learned (I'll never use Dominants again) and I think it's important to keep trying different strings. We'll see....

Rob - you have inspired me to start a new thread based on your comment about being important to try different strings - many thanks.

During the second tune of the first set of a three hour duo gig this evening, my Dominant E broke in the vicinity of the pegbox. Rummaged around in my case and had three spiros as backups...a G, D, and A.

Oy. Truth told, I think I know what caused this: on a couple of tunes I regularly play, I tune down to D just for that one tune and then tune back up. I really smack that ****er on one of them, too. Oh well. I'm still keeping the other three on there, and will likely replace them with same.

Anyway, I played the gig just fine with three strings, then came home and slapped on a Spiro Stark E. I think I'm gonna go play exclusively on it for about an hour just to even things out for the evening. :D

On the whole, those here that have used the Dominants seem to love them. Based on everything I've heard, I decided to switch to a set soon. Then there is the breakage issue.

Given a proper and careful installation, including lubricating the bridge and nut notches, and assuming that the strings will not be removed and/or de-tuned, is this a serious issue or not?

My playing is 99.999999% jazz pizz. Taking that into account, would you use the Doms or switch to something else? I am currently using Obligatos. I love their sound but I'm looking for something with more punch. The Doms seem to fit the bill except for the breakage issue that has gotten me more than a bit concerned.

Thanks.

I was a bit concerned with the same thing before I put my set on based on what I had read here about them breaking but I have had zero problems with them since I put them on. I did follow all the precautions you mentioned and do not detune them for any reason so I think if you do the same you should be fine. I hope you enjoy them.

I think the risk is definitely worth it; as long as you know the limitations - careful fitting and minimal de-tuning - then you should be fine. It would also be best to have any work you may be considering done on your bass done before you try them, so that you don't have to remove and reinstall them for any reason.

I'm trying the Solo set tuned to orchestra pitch at present and like them even more than the Orch. set.

I agree with what is being said in this thread. I think risk is minimal to zero if you handle them properly.

If they do break, you send them back to Tomastik, and until now they have been pretty good about replacing them at no cost. I would keep a spare E in my bass bag just in case.

Even after careful prep, the E string broke soon after I installed a set of Dominants on my 3/4 Shen Willow. Frankly those strings didn't work out very well on that bass, and I didn't like the way they responded to the bow.

Thanks to all who replied so far for the peace of mind. Andy-- as a matter of fact, I routinely do as you say. I'm fortunate enough to have my luthier (Upton) only 1.5 hr. away so I always bring the bass in for a tune-up (pun intended) before changing the strings, which I have them do.

I'm trying the Solo set tuned to orchestra pitch at present and like them even more than the Orch. set.

At the risk of going completely off topic...

What about the solo set do you like better? Is it a tone issue or a tension issue?

...What about the solo set do you like better? Is it a tone issue or a tension issue?

I initially swapped to the Solos to reduce tension as I am working through Michael Moore's thumb position book. I was worried about losing the thick tone that the Orch's have, but that has been retained and a certain amount of 'smoothness' has been added. It's a little hard to describe, but the whole set-up now seems a little more organic. I generally prefer a fatter, higher tension string, so I'm surprised I like the Solos as much - thankfully neither the physical thickness nor tension are quite as thin/low as Weichs. I'm still using my trusty Spiro Orch E, though, and because it's old and worn in it matches up pretty well.

...I didn't like the way they responded to the bow.

On my bass the dominants (orch & solo) are as good or better with the bow than anything else I've tried (even Corellis). This might be partly due to my poor technique, but it's nice to have found strings that are great both arco and pizz in my situation.

I apologize for participating in thread-hijack, but you're talking about solo strings tuned down, right?
You say they sound almost as thick as the orchestral? are you mainly pizzing or bowing?

Breaking Dominant threads merged.

The thought of using the tuned down solos certainly piques my interest. I've been moving my string height up and I'm starting to feel the tension so that set up sounds ideal. Something to consider for another time.

I apologize for participating in thread-hijack, but you're talking about solo strings tuned down, right?
You say they sound almost as thick as the orchestral? are you mainly pizzing or bowing?

This is about 85% pizz and 15% arco. I think the solos are slightly less agressive than the orchs - while still retaining the characteistic click and fat sound. I changed the strings out one by one (G first) so that I could compare then to the orchs that were on there previously, and noticed little, if any loss of volume. I think describing them as slightly smoother, as I did earlier is the best I can do with words.

I can't comment on the E though, as I still have the Spiro Orch. on there, after the dominant orch E broke during installation. The overall string length on my bass is a little short and the end silk on the Dominants E and G, where the string starts to get thicker, just reaches the tuning peg. The thicker E broke, but the G is hanging in there.

Incidentally I returned the string to Quinns and they replaced it, no question asked (a quick plug for them for both service and prices). I am toying with the idea of fitting an MPM tailpeice to increase the overall string length so I can use it.

I had my Dominant E break about 2 months ago after being on the bass for a short while. Elisabeth Pohl at Thomastik was great. I sent my E string back to the company and they sent me a new one.

I've had the new E string on for about 1.5 months. Today I went to practice and discovered the E had broken again in the same place...in the silk winding between the nut and the peg. I think the strings sound great but this proves to me there is a problem with the E. To clarify things a little more, I didn't install the string. It was put on by a luthier while he was setting up my bass (so it's not my fault).

Some luthiers don't have experience with Dominants, and many use power tools to wind up the strings, which needless to say would mean instant Dominant death. They need a slow installation so that the tension moves slowly through (and the lubing of course).

If you're having many problems you might want to take a look at your bridge and nut grooves, just to make sure that they are wide enough.

Because of some repair work I have had to completely loosen and re-tune my Dominants 3 times recently. With patience and lubrication it all went well (I know someone is going to have fun with my last sentence).

With patience and lubrication it all went well (I know someone is going to have fun with my last sentence).
Why do you say that, "Dr. Rod?":hiding:

Oh, you know....bassists

Mike here from Thomastik (if the username didn't give it away already). As most of your know, string breakage in our brands is extremely rare, so when we hear people talking about it we take it very seriously. Our strings are hand made one at a time, so there are never bad batches. We guarantee every string out of the package.

If you have an issue with a Thomastik string, I urge you to contact me directly. I am always available M-F, 9am to 5pm at 800-644-5268, or by the email below.

Mike here from Thomastik (if the username didn't give it away already). As most of your know, string breakage in our brands is extremely rare, so when we hear people talking about it we take it very seriously. Our strings are hand made one at a time, so there are never bad batches. We guarantee every string out of the package.

If you have an issue with a Thomastik string, I urge you to contact me directly. I am always available M-F, 9am to 5pm at 800-644-5268, or by the email below.

That's good to know! After breaking my E, I emailed Thomastic in the EU directly and got back the following reply:

"To be honest: the Dominant Bass Strings are synthetic core strings and have always been more likely to break (compared to Spirocores etc...). This is a matter of string construction and not a quality problem in the production process. We often discuss about this, but it is one of our most important rules never to change a string's receipt - this would be necessary to get rid of the problem.

Luckiliy we more and more sell these strings and this also means more complaints of string breakage. To prevent it the following things are important:

The metal wound part of the string MUST NOT get on the tuning peg.
The curves in nut and bridge must be wide enough and should be lubricated with a pencil

...these things are mentioned on your forum anyway.."

I found this reply very honest and timely, and appreciated it very much. I have since decided to forego the use of the Dominant E, since I sometimes tune down to D and back again for the occasional tune....this is perfectly fine since the Spiro Stark E is a monster anyway.

I suppose my question to you would be, under what circumstances should someone contact you about a string breakage? What is the time/use period that (in general) constitutes just normal wear and tear? I recommend these strings to a lot of people, but always with the caveat that they are more prone to breakage than steel core strings.

I realize that you can't give a really specific answer to the question above, but something in the ballpark would be great. If the string pops during the first week or so, I assume it would be reasonable to let you know?

Thomastik's reply is right on the ball. The most important point here is that the nut groove MUST be large enough to accept the diameter of the Dominant bass strings. If not, two things happen:

1) the outer core and silk will get stripped away as the string stretches and passes through the groove

2) the string may "lock" into the nut if it is not lubricated or cut correctly, causing the tension in the area between the nut and the winder will be extremely high. I urge everyone to have their instruments set up professionally when switching to a new brand of strings.

To answer your question, everyone should contact me about string issues. Although 95% of all breakages are due to improper set up or abuse (like over-agressive slap and constant detuning), it is important that we know about it. But as for a statute of limitations on string breakage...use your best judgement and contact me if you are unsure.

I should clarify that my office works specifically with musicians in the US. Everyone else may contact Thomastik-Infeld directly at info@thomastik-Infeld.com.

Thanks Mike, will do. While you're around, can you comment on the new formula for Spirocores? They're darker and less "banjolike" (and therefore more playable) right out of the package, which most people consider a good thing, but I don't know what else may have changed. Thanks!

Thanks Mike, will do. While you're around, can you comment on the new formula for Spirocores? They're darker and less "banjolike" (and therefore more playable) right out of the package, which most people consider a good thing, but I don't know what else may have changed. Thanks!Just can't stay focused can you.

The "formula" for Spirocore has not been changed since they were first released nearly 55 years ago. Here is a comment from Thomastik-Infeld on the subject:

"It has come to our attention that there is a concern the manufacturing process for Spirocore Strings has been changed. Although we have revised the visual and physical design of the Spirocore package in the last year, it is important to understand that we continue to produce Spirocore strings the same way we have since the product was introduced in the 1950’s."

~Bernhard Rieger, R&D – Bass Strings - Thomastik Infeld

I hope that helps put the baby to bed.

I just got my bass back from the luthier with a new set of Dominants installed, and instructions to bring 'em up to pitch sloooowwwllly. The trouble is, 'installed' isn't really the most descriptive word, cos my bridge ended up a good centimeter closer to the fingerboard than it ought to have been. I've loosened the strings off a smidge, and done the old 'karate chop' thing (:ninja: ), but basically I'm a little bit nervous about these fellas breaking! I also feel pretty weird thumping my bridge around, and thought this thread might be the place to make doe eyes and ask for advice :)

Should I be attempting to lubricate the sections of string that will next meet the bridge and nut as I tune up? I thought that might be a good precaution. Secondly, is it okay to be whacking my bridge into position with the strings nearly up to pitch? Getting the feet in place feels okay, and 'safe,' but compensating when the bridge starts to lean (which it has done with a couple of quite horrifying noises,) is giving me the heebie jeebies. These strings are the hell's angel at the end of the bar who you don't want to make eye contact with :)

I know these are kinda novice queries, but I'm the kind of guy to whom luthiery seems like voodoo. I'm sure I can hear my old Spiros saying, "We told you so."

I've got to be off to a piano gig now, but thanks for reading this, and any advice is welcome.

A nervous Tomasito

UPDATE: Well, apparently this gig was cancelled a while ago - shame I only got to hear about it AFTER I tore down half the studio to get my rig out! Anyway, in the meantime the bass has settled down a bit - I've got it up to Eb Ab Db Gb at the mo, with the occaisional karate chop along the way. I think we can put the above post down to blind panic, and a bit of Spiroholic naivety. To anyone who read this post, thanks for humouring me!

A less nervous (although seething at the prospect of lugging my gear back upstairs,) Tomasito

Hey Tomasito

Any fiddling with dominants is a cause for risk. Sorry but that's the truth.

I have seen respected luthiers do the Karate move, I would loosen up the strings a bit and lubricate. But again, this is only speculation on my part.

I also remember one guy putting a rag over the bridge to protect it, and wacking with a hammer right between the D and A strings. I am not advising you or anyone to do this, just FYI.

I recently found that my bridge was tilted slightly to towards the fingerboard. My luthier knocked it back vertical by lightly tapping it with one of those round, soft mallets. I was not brave enough to attempt it myself.

This was with dominant solos on D&G and Dom orch A (Spiro med. E). They had been on for quite a while, though, so I think it was a bump in transit that caused the bridge to shift.

i noticed if i have some graphite or something in the slots of hte bridge to lubricate i can just give the bridge a good push and it will move, even with the strings fully up to pitch......last few times i had to loosen the strings for various reasons i didn't lubricate and it is a little more difficult now but still possible.

I also remember one guy putting a rag over the bridge to protect it, and wacking with a hammer right between the D and A strings. I am not advising you or anyone to do this, just FYI.
I've seen jokes about that here, I didn't think anyone actually did it. :eek: I do the same as jmpiwonka...If the slots are lubed w/graphite, you can just reach down, while standing with the bass, and apply pressure with your thumbs right between the strings, and you can tweak it ever so slightly into position.

gomez

Any fiddling with dominants is a cause for risk. Sorry but that's the truth.

I have seen respected luthiers do the Karate move, I would loosen up the strings a bit and lubricate. But again, this is only speculation on my part.

Thanks :) That was the strategy, and it's worked out okay. I was only panicking a bit because I was under the impression that detuning was a no no. 'Slowly' was the operative word I suppose.

i noticed if i have some graphite or something in the slots of hte bridge to lubricate i can just give the bridge a good push and it will move, even with the strings fully up to pitch

Yup. When I first got this bass I was convinced someone had glued the bridge down, cos it never budged under tension (with red spiros.) Even replacing those, one at a time, the bridge stayed put. I've been amazed at how much the bridge WILL move with a bit of graphite in the slots.

I think it was a bump in transit that caused the bridge to shift.

I think it was the same in my case.

If the slots are lubed w/graphite, you can just reach down, while standing with the bass, and apply pressure with your thumbs right between the strings, and you can tweak it ever so slightly into position.

This kind of advice is really useful, because when someone says 'push your bridge back into place' or something simillar, my first reaction is always 'okay, but how hard should I expect to push?'

Thanks all, hope I didn't derail the thread too much. You never know, perhaps one of these suckers will snap and I can join the party!

Tom

If the slots are lubed w/graphite, you can just reach down, while standing with the bass, and apply pressure with your thumbs right between the strings, and you can tweak it ever so slightly into position.

gomez

I usually do this too.

What some people claim is that this is actually imparts more strain than the quick blow. Like pulling a hair slowly. I have no proof for or against one of these methods, I am just sharing what I have heard.

I usually do this too.

What some people claim is that this is actually imparts more strain than the quick blow. Like pulling a hair slowly. I have no proof for or against one of these methods, I am just sharing what I have heard.
If they're talking about strain to the bridge, my normal adjustment after changing strings is very minor. I doubt if the bridge moves more than 1/8" or so. It slides quite easily with the graphite. There might be a concern with certain strings if they have delicate windings, doesn't apply tho in my case. It might be OK to tap the bridge if you had a small rubber hammer. Like the ones Dr.s tap your knee with...:hmm:

gomez

Hey Dominant players...

First off, I appreciate everyone's feeback and patience. Thomastik-Infeld is currently looking into the issue and there should be a solution soon, but first we need some information.

For everyone currently playing or considering trying the Dominants, please take two measurements on your instrument for me:

1) Distance from bridge to nut (vibrating length)
2) Distance from the ball-end of the string (in the tailpiece) to the peg on your E string.

Also, let me know what size bass you have (3/4, 7/8, etc). You can PM me or email your specs to michaelh@connollyandco.com.

Thanks for your help, Mike...PM sent.

You have a PM from me too :)
I'm enjoying these strings so far, guys. I didn't initially perceive anything that would make me like them BETTER than my spiros, they were just different - more detailed perhaps, a more papery (!) 'interesting' attack, but in a mix with other instruments they seem to come alive, with a real 'personality' behind every note. Very nice indeed.

Hey Thomas from Thomastik

PM sent !

All, I just emailed this to Mike, but thought I'd post it since I know there are others like me. BTW, doms sound great on my bass; the upper register is fantastic with harmonics being true and stable all over. I play mostly arco in the orchestra setting. My piano accompanist transposes down a step for stuff that I only have in solo tuning.

=============

Hi Mike, my dom A-string broke this morning after less than a week. Quinn Violins is replacing it. My situation is that I have a Robertson C-extension which uses the customary A-string peg to receive the long C-string thru a hole in the top of the scroll. Which means that my A-string winds around the "E peg". I'm using a pirastro perm long C and am trying TI dom G,D,A for the first time.

Bass size is 3/4, setup by Robertsons, then later added their C-extension.

Here are my A-string measurement (you asked for E-string measurements):
1) Distance from bridge to nut (vibrating length)
42" vibe length.

2) Distance from the ball-end of the string (in the tailpiece) to the peg on your E string.
I have a Pecanic TP which barely keeps the A-string silver outer wrap from rolling up on the peg. Here are the measurements from where the A-string exits the top of my TP going north to the tuning peg I use for the A-string.

a) TP exit to bridge bend = 9 inches.
b) vibe length = 42"
c) nut thickness = 3/4"
d) top of nut to bottom of peg = 2 1/8" The peg I use for my A-string is the lowest one in the peg box -- the one most players use for their E-string.

Even though I have a replacement A-string coming from Quinn, I fear that it's doomed to break since it winds up dangerously close to the silver.

Can you give any advice on how to install my A-string in my configuration? Also, is there a long-C dom for the C-extension?

Thanks, Mark

I've been loving my Dominant G, D, and A, and finally decided to get the E to replace my D'Addario Pizz. Picked one up at Shar (down the street), and it broke while tuning up, despite all the usual precautions (graphite, vaseline, tuning up over the course of an hour or more). Hmmm. Went back, got another, and it broke, too. Great. Went back and got a Flexocor, which I'm so far not terribly happy with, but at least it didn't break!

The problem seems to be that the Doms have not nearly enough silk wrapping for their length, given that if the metal winds around the tuning shank they seem sure to break. The Flexocor actually has much less wrapping, but the metal wound around the shank shows no sign of damage, and it tuned up nice and quick.

Too bad--I love both arco and pizz with the Doms, but life is too short for a string that wants to break so badly. Time will tell if the Flexocor E is a good match, and I'll just hope my other Dom strings hold up okay.

EDIT: ThomastikMike, you wanted measurements, so here they are: a hair over 41 inches vibrating length, and about 49.5 inches from ball to the E-string peg. I'll also PM you with these.

IMHO Thomastik Infeld should really think about reformulating these great strings in order to make them more durable.

I have personally never had them break since using extreme caution and lubes etc...but we shouldn't have to go through all this in the 21st century.

My wife is a violinist and a long time Dominant user. She has never had a Dominant violin string break.

Took a while to get my solo doms, but they're on now (day 2). Sounded & felt very much like Weichs in the short time that I had them in normal tuning (I've just taken Weichs off). I couldn't resist the solo tuning (for which they were designed) and they are lovely under the bow. Since I am working on my arco repertoire at present (I used to do a lot of jazz gigs), this is the way they'll stay. They're nice and loud at present.
Richard

I just found this thread. Another case of the D breaking between the nut & peg underneath the silk here. Oh well, now to figure out what to do next.

My wife is a violinist and a long time Dominant user. She has never had a Dominant violin string break.That's it! Just put violin Dominants on your bass. :D

I will soon be trying Dominant G, D and A and with an extension on my bass, the A still will be on the lower tune. Am I nervous about this breakage issue? Hell yeah.

It occurs to me that if you install the string and it does end up with metal on the tuner that perhaps putting some kind of tape or thin cloth around that part of the string may help. I'm not sure what could specifically be used though. The string length on my bass is 42" so I'm hoping that I won't have this problem.

It occurs to me that if you install the string and it does end up with metal on the tuner that perhaps putting some kind of tape or thin cloth around that part of the string may help. I'm not sure what could specifically be used though. The string length on my bass is 42" so I'm hoping that I won't have this problem. Well the problem with that is that the strings were on my bass in the ideal position: Silk past the nut but not far enough so that you had metal windings on the peg.

I def like the sound of the Doms but I wish the were just a touch darker. In my frustration yesterday I ordered some FCS D & G strings just to try something else more reliable and hopefully get the sound I want. I'm kinda like DURRL now in that I'm kinda married to the Spiro Stark E, and maybe A. But if this setup doesn't work out I'm going gut with one of your recommended setups: Gamut G & D and either Spiro Mittle E & A or Helicore Hybrid E & A.

Anyways, good luck with the Doms. I think it's hit or miss at this rate. Seems like the D & E strings are the weakest in the set.

FCS?

Pirastro Flatchromesteel. If you're looking for something darker than Dominants, hdiddy, FCS strings are pretty far in the wrong direction. I had FCS E and A with Obli D and G on my bass before I switched to a full set of Dominants a few weeks ago, they are bright as a mofo. The Dominants are bright to the point of obnoxious and brittle when you first put them on, but they mellow like crazy given some playing time. Can't say enough for the tone.

That said...if you're looking for something that bows, the Pirastro FCS strings bow really nicely -- not as nice as the Doms, but still quite nice.

I think it's hit or miss at this rate. Seems like the D & E strings are the weakest in the set.

I dunno. I've had one set on for 18 months and only broke the E, which had been frequently detuned, and have had another set on my second bass for about 6 months with no issues. I just decided to think of them as twice as expensive as they really are and buy a second set as a backup...haven't needed it yet though.

Pirastro Flatchromesteel. If you're looking for something darker than Dominants, hdiddy, FCS strings are pretty far in the wrong direction. I had FCS E and A with Obli D and G on my bass before I switched to a full set of Dominants a few weeks ago, they are bright as a mofo. The Dominants are bright to the point of obnoxious and brittle when you first put them on, but they mellow like crazy given some playing time. Can't say enough for the tone.

That said...if you're looking for something that bows, the Pirastro FCS strings bow really nicely -- not as nice as the Doms, but still quite nice.


Darker than Dominant?
Bows nice?

I'd have to say it sounds like you might want to try the new Belcantos. I love them on my bass so far.

well I bought the FCS based on someone elses comments that it would go well with my Starks and I hadn't read any threads on the Belcanto's since I thought they were an acro string. I'll take a look at them again. I only bought the G & D strings so I guess I don't mind the expense so much (~$60). Only one real way to find out. The Doms were bright and mellowed out a bit for me but IMO they didn't darker substantially either. For the time being, I want something durable. As long as the FCS isn't as bright or nasal like Spiro Orch's I'm willing to give them a try.

I may come back to the Dom's later but I'm not married to them for the moment. I'm seriously thinking of going to Gut at some point in which case I'll abandon my current set of strings. I dunno, I keep flipflopping just like everybody else I guess.

After being on my bass for about a year or so, my D broke between the nut and the tuning peg. Shortly after this, the A started coming undone and losing pitch.
I contacted the nice folks listed earlier in this thread. They were helpful and very nice to deal with.
I have a new set of Doms on that I got from Quinn, and my bad Doms will be on thier way back to TI for inspection...they're sending me a new A and D as well...nice!