I'm having an SKB made and am getting maple/maple neck, mahogany body and probably a quilted or tiger maple top but would consider an alternative top that is hard and bright like maple.

Any suggestions? I'm hesitant to go with a burl or spalted due to the softness and light weight. Therefore, I want something really hard. Considering a wavy bubinga. How does the brightness compare with maple?

Thoughts?

Well, first...I wouldn't necessarily lable all burls "soft", nor would I consider bubinga to be "bright". To your original question, as far as woods that are aesthetically attractive and often exhibit the same type of figure and character as maple, I think that you would be hard-pressed to find something better than myrtle. Myrtle, myrtle burl, flames myrtle, tyger myrtle, myrtle, myrtle, myrtle.

i'm not looking for woods that exhibit the same figure and character. I'm looking for attractive woods that exhibit the same tonal qualities as maple. I was under the (mis)understanding that the harder and denser woods were brighter.

i'm not looking for woods that exhibit the same figure and character. I'm looking for attractive woods that exhibit the same tonal qualities as maple. I was under the (mis)understanding that the harder and denser woods were brighter.


Not necessarily, I think that each tone wood adds its own "flavor" to the mixture. When I got my bass ordered I had quite afew emails back and forth with Gard, asking for specific tonal attributes and which is the right combination of woods to use to achieve the tone you desire. I would strongly suggest to call him or drop him a few lines, I'm sure you'll get your answer.

Not necessarily, I think that each tone wood adds its own "flavor" to the mixture. When I got my bass ordered I had quite afew emails back and forth with Gard, asking for specific tonal attributes and which is the right combination of woods to use to achieve the tone you desire. I would strongly suggest to call him or drop him a few lines, I'm sure you'll get your answer.

Yes, I've talked to Gard. I'm going to be endorsing Roscoe basses so we're working something out.

The SKB-3006 I have now has a maple/maple neck, mahogany body, flamed maple top. It is slightly neck heavy but not overly so. I'd like something which balances the same or better than the current instrument. I considered going with a Century but there is a compromise when you go with the bigger horn. It effectively puts more of the upper range of the instrument across your body, making it harder to access. Of course, the compliment to that is it makes the lower ranges easier to access. Delicate balance here (no pun intended). I love the playability and feel of the SKB so I'll likely stick with its body style.

Yes, I've talked to Gard. I'm going to be endorsing Roscoe basses so we're working something out.

The SKB-3006 I have now has a maple/maple neck, mahogany body, flamed maple top. It is slightly neck heavy but not overly so. I'd like something which balances the same or better than the current instrument. I considered going with a Century but there is a compromise when you go with the bigger horn. It effectively puts more of the upper range of the instrument across your body, making it harder to access. Of course, the compliment to that is it makes the lower ranges easier to access. Delicate balance here (no pun intended). I love the playability and feel of the SKB so I'll likely stick with its body style.


jzucker.-

Congrats on your instrument endorsing with Roscoe. I think his instruments are among the finest. I agree with you on your observations about body shape. If any, what I's like to do eventually is to get an SKB body, but with a slightly longer upper horn (sort of a hybrid shape between the Century and the SKB, with the "upper" body portion of the Century and the lower one from the SKB). My SKB3006 is a spalted maple top on spanish cedar body and a maple/pupleheart/maple neck with a rosewood board...It has a very slight neck dive (not nticeable at all if I play with a strap or in a high, comfy stool). Perhaps another good idea is to have a slighly heavy body with a lighter fingerboard wood if you want to keep the maple neck. Just a thought...and congratulations again!

jzucker.-

Congrats on your instrument endorsing with Roscoe. I think his instruments are among the finest. I agree with you on your observations about body shape. If any, what I's like to do eventually is to get an SKB body, but with a slightly longer upper horn (sort of a hybrid shape between the Century and the SKB, with the "upper" body portion of the Century and the lower one from the SKB). My SKB3006 is a spalted maple top on spanish cedar body and a maple/pupleheart/maple neck with a rosewood board...It has a very slight neck dive (not nticeable at all if I play with a strap or in a high, comfy stool). Perhaps another good idea is to have a slighly heavy body with a lighter fingerboard wood if you want to keep the maple neck. Just a thought...and congratulations again!

Thanks Diego. Have you inquired about having a longer horn on an SKB? That probably would solve any balance issue. Probably a 1/2 to 3/4" would do nicely. I'd guess it'd be a hefty upcharge though...

Spanish Cedar is pretty light. I think my mahogany/maple body is probably heavier than your spalted maple/cedar body. OTOH, I wonder if Roscoe is using acrylic impregnated wood on the spalted tops? If so, it could make the top heavier than just a plain top.

I was also going to see if they'd use a slightly heavier than normal piece of mahogany for the body. The thing is, I don't want the bass to be a boat-anchor. Part of the attraction of the SKB is it's light weight...

So...I talked to Gard again today. We came up with a few different variations:

1) Mahogany body, Tiger Myrtle top, maple fingerboard
2) Mahogany body, flamed/feathered maple top, spalted purpleheart fingerboard
3) Mahogany body, ebony top, maple fingerboard
4) Mahogany body, purple heart top, maple fingerboard

One question I forgot to ask was whether they put a finish on the fingerboards to preserve the purple in the purpleheart?

Jaz -

We spray the fingerboard with a sealer, otherwise, we don't put anything on the spalted purpleheart fingerboards. For the top, we use a polyester lacquer that totally seals it from dirt, so it stays a good solid "purple" color, but on the fingerboards, over time they darken a bit from the finger oils and dirt.

Jaz

Tiger Mrytle with spalted purpleheart f/b FYI.

Jaz

Tiger Mrytle with spalted purpleheart f/b FYI.

That's incredibly gorgeous. You have any other pictures of that? Is that natural or amber stained? What kind of body wood is it? Does the purpleheart FB give you a similar snap as maple?

Gard? Do you guys have another piece of tiger mrytle that looks similar to that? :)

Jaz

This bass has a versatile sound - fat/clean/growly it's all in there. The finish is clear high gloss. Here are some more picys:)

I have always been a long time advocate of birdseye maple boards, but i honsetly think that with most types of myrtle tops, spalted purple heart looks best.