I got a neck.... without a nut. This tech wants like... 50 bucks to do my nut, then 50 for a setup (I have to get the setup to get the nut done.). So I figure... since I set up all my basses anyway..... and since his setup won't be as good as mine.... and since the tools to cut a nut can't be more than 10 bucks... a bone nut is like.... 3. I got about 15 shots at making a nut and learning a skill that I can use, instead of lining some dude's pocket. Anyone got any tips, a list of tools, and time requirements?

Well....a proper set of nut slotting files from StewMac will run you something like $70, but you can easily get away with using small round needle files. Some guys also use feeler gauges that they cut notches (teeth) into one end. It can definitely be done on the cheap.

The tricky part is that you need to fine tune the slots after you put it on the neck, without scuffing up the fretboard or the headstock. I use a tiny drop of superglue to hold it in place while I tune it up, then pop it out and glue it down for real when I like the action. Take your time and it should be fine, no reason to lay down $100 for that.

I spent 4 bucks on a set of needle files and made the nut out of scrap purpleheart, worked just fine.

For a bass any old set of needle files should do the trick. True slotting files are more important when working on smaller guages (i.e. guitar).

One thing I've been meaning to try is using an old string with some grinding compound. How fast it would cut would depend on how you're working the string, what your nut material is, and what kind of abrasive compound you're using, but the final width of the slot should be pretty much perfect.

I've also used diamond burrs in a rotary tool for cutting brass nuts. The only issue there is having the slot wander on you, but a bit of care and it shouldn't be too much of a problem. Just remember that you can always take more material away, but putting it back can get tricky.

-Nate

Carving nuts is one of my favorite tasks when I build. Some tips...

- To make sure your slots are all at the same depth, you can tape a piece of string or anything small, right in front of the nut. As you file down into the slot, just stop when the file reaches your reference piece.

- I like to use a large file on the nut when its sitting in it's slot to contour it's top to match the arch of the fretboard and or to shape it so that the E string side is slightly larger.

- If you'll carve the slots so that they are deeper on the headstock side and higher on the face of the nut, it will make a very precise witness point for the string. It doesn't take much.

....another way to match your fingerboard radius on the nut is to take a radiusing block after the initial slots have been cut, and use the radiusing block to sculpt the top contour.

Slip you nut into a vice, and sand away...you will match the contour every time.

Then go back and finalize your slots.

just the way I do it.

I spent 4 bucks on a set of needle files and made the nut out of scrap purpleheart, worked just fine.

Ditto, i cant imagine any process that is really any better

thats a high price i think, i was quoted 50 dollars for a bone nut blank, the guy cutting the nut, and then setting up the bass.

I use a zero fret w/ a guiding nut behind it. Sometimes I wonder.....why doesn't everyone do this??

In 22 years, I have never learned to do a Zero fret, but I do all straight neck throughs, and have never been asked to do one.....LOL so I guess I never felt the need....

I guess we all have new things we can learn

I use a half-pencil to draw a line on the nut that matches the neck radius using the first two frets.

Meaning....take a sharpened pencil (long enough to cover the first two frets with the tip touching the nut blank) and slice it in half along its length using a Dremel cutting wheel. Put the flat side down on the first 2 frets, then draw the contour on the nut blank and slot down just shy of the pencil mark. Fine-tune from there.

c/o Bob Benedetto