I have pretty much decided to try my hand at a small bit of inlay work on my first build - just a small logo on the headstock. The only trouble I can see comming my way is that I am finishing with Tung oil ( the Thornby's varnish type ), and I'm not sure what this oil finish will do over the inlay materials. I know that standard finishes cover and cure over inlays but what about this type of oil finish. Looking for any inlay wisdom you guys may have. I would sure hate to trash the whole idea if there is a good way to do this.

I am neither an inlay or finish genious (spelling either) but people probably can't help you unless they know what materials you are planning on using for your inlay

You are most wise, spudmaster - I should have given more info. Stew-Mac has a 3-pc inlay pack I'm planning on using.
The 3-pack has...2 pieces of Mother-of Pearl ( 1 white and 1 gold ) and a piece of Paua abolone. It's not much material, but it will work with my logo. I'm planning on inlaying it into a Spalted Maple overlay on my Maple headstock. The whole thing it going to get Tung oil finish

You are most wise, spudmaster - I should have given more info. Stew-Mac has a 3-pc inlay pack I'm planning on using.
The 3-pack has...2 pieces of Mother-of Pearl ( 1 white and 1 gold ) and a piece of Paua abolone. It's not much material, but it will work with my logo. I'm planning on inlaying it into a Spalted Maple overlay on my Maple headstock. The whole thing it going to get Tung oil finish

If you'll get the inlay finished, filled, and smoothed before the oil, just wipe over it as you apply but come back with a clean cloth and rub out the image when the oil tacks up. Tung oil won't build a finish like TruOil so you aren't dealing with a thicker layer surrounding the inlay.

Thanks for the advice, Hambone, I appreciate it. I noticed you mentioned TruOil in your reply and in your reply to the guy that was swapping necks and had some finish lift off. I'm not familiar with that - do you prefer it over Tung Oil? Just so you'll know, I'll be trying for a glossy finish unless satin is all you can get out of the oil finishes.

Thanks for the advice, Hambone, I appreciate it. I noticed you mentioned TruOil in your reply and in your reply to the guy that was swapping necks and had some finish lift off. I'm not familiar with that - do you prefer it over Tung Oil? Just so you'll know, I'll be trying for a glossy finish unless satin is all you can get out of the oil finishes.

TruOil is a product from Birchwood Casey and was developed as a gunstock finish. It's been around for many years. It's base is a boiled linseed oil that has additional modifiers and driers added to create a quick setting, fast curing, film building finish. You can apply early coats thinned slightly to penetrate the figure, then apply heavier film coats to bring up a finish as glossy as lacquer. It just depends on where you want to stop since every coat is applied by hand rubbing or wiping. You can smooth it by wetsanding and you can polish it with automotive style buffing compounds. I use only the light cut and swirl remover compounds and it works great. You can get TruOil nowadays at any WalMart sporting goods department - Unless you're in Budapest!

You can get TruOil nowadays at any WalMart sporting goods department - Unless you're in Budapest!

...or unless you're in Maryland, where they don't sell guns at Walmart.

What is this country coming to! :scowl:

Thanks Hambone, I checked out your site while I was waiting to see if you would reply - some really nice finishes on those basses. I understand this is a wipe-on, rub-off system like Tung Oil, but i think i saw something in your gallery page where you mention using spray equipment. Did I miss-read that?