So the little thin metal coil near the grippy part on my bow is loose and actually sprung off today. I put the end of the coil back into the little hole and then put tape around the whole coil. It's a cheap bow, only $200.

I did a search for this on the forum and couldn't find a thing. Mabe becasue I don't actually know the real name of the "metal coily thing".

So what can I do to tighten this and keep it tight? So it never unravels again. Thanks.

Hmm, that's weird, the actual correct term is "metal coily thing". Must be something wrong with your search function.

No, actually, it's usually called "wire wrapping", so if you search on that in the bow forum, you might find something.

So the little thin metal coil near the grippy part on my bow is loose and actually sprung off today. I put the end of the coil back into the little hole and then put tape around the whole coil. It's a cheap bow, only $200.

I did a search for this on the forum and couldn't find a thing. Mabe becasue I don't actually know the real name of the "metal coily thing".

So what can I do to tighten this and keep it tight? So it never unravels again. Thanks.

After you get it re-wrapped tightly you can use some clear nail polish, Cyano, or laquer to hold it together. Some bow people solder the ends as well where the wrap starts and finishes.

I would suggest bringing it to your luthier and asking them to replace it with one of those plastic things, I don't know the correct term for that but I see them on alot of bows.

Cool. Thanks for the quick and helpful responses. I'll look into them, especially the nail polish one since it seems to be the simplest.

I'm actually very lazy, and I still have the scotch tape wrapped over the wire wrapping to be safe because I haven't done anything about it yet.

I actually ran across the same problem.

I didn't use scotch tape though: that makes it look too much like cheapskate job. Instead, I used a layer of medical tape that is about 1/2 in. wide.
It does a decent job, and doesn't look too cheap. :)

On my old bow the wire was uneven which made it a little uncomfortable so I used black bicycle handlebar tape, looked nicer and gave a more comfortable grip.

Hmm, that's weird, the actual correct term is "metal coily thing". Must be something wrong with your search function. . .

It's because it is actually hyphenated.

"metal-coily-thing"


I would suggest bringing it to your luthier and asking them to replace it with one of those plastic things, I don't know the correct term for that but I see them on alot of bows.


If I understand correctly, that wrapping is there at least in part to properly balance the bow. Simply removing it and replacing it with something else may upset the nature of the stick.

It doesn't seem like something that you can just do, in my not-so-well-educated opinion.

If I understand correctly, that wrapping is there at least in part to properly balance the bow. Simply removing it and replacing it with something else may upset the nature of the stick.


Greetings!

This is exactly correct. Silver wire...as used for bows....comes in a couple of different guages. The choice of guage is determined by how much weight is needed for balance.

When the bow was made, there was probably a little "collar" made out of the same skin as the grip that is on the other side of the winding (between the winding and the tip). these collars are very narrow (< 1mm) and will often become separated (and lost) from the bow. If you don't have access to goatskin...or whatever the rest of the grip is made of...I like a previous poster's suggestion of handlebar tape. I'll have to keep that in mind.

If the winding is just starting to come loose and not unraveling, you might be able to just replace the collar in order to "snug up" the winding.

Cut a nice narrow strip just slightly longer than the circumference of the stick. Thin it down at the ends and glue it around the stick using a little white "Elmer's" glue. Start/end on the bottom of the stick, just over the hair, so that the joint isn't too obvious.

Best regards!

Jim

Just use some crazy glue and be careful not to get any on the wood of the stick.

Silver wire...as used for bows....comes in a couple of different guages. The choice of guage is determined by how much weight is needed for balance.

So, what is the correct balance point for a bow? Is there a rule of thumb? Like a "business card under the strings at the nut" type of rule? I wonder whether the fine wire on my bow would change the balance by more than a pifteenth if I removed it.

So, what is the correct balance point for a bow? Is there a rule of thumb? Like a "business card under the strings at the nut" type of rule? I wonder whether the fine wire on my bow would change the balance by more than a pifteenth if I removed it.

Greetings!

There is a rough rule of thumb or target that we look for.
For French bows, we generally look for a balance point of 8 inches (with a bow weight in the neighborhood of 135-145 grams). For German, we look for a balance point of 7.5 inches (and a weight around 125-135 grams). Balance is measured from the frog end of the stick (don't include the button) to the center of gravity. Make sure that the frog's eyelet is as forward as it can go in it's mortise.

If I'm remebering correctly....notes in my little shop not the office, every addition or removal of 2 grams moves the balance point about 1/4 inch. Please don't quote me on that exact number, but it's close.

My guess would be that if you removed your winding...left the grip) your balance point would move 1/4 inch closer to the tip.

Of course, the "correct" balance is that which allows you play what you want, easily and without pain/injury.....simply there's lots of variation within this aspect of bass playing. Just like so many others! :-)

Best regards!

Jim

You've got to keep in mind that master bow makers use wire wrapping to fine tune the balance, but in factory bows (which are the great majority in use) the wrapping is mostly for decoration and more likely to be small diameter plated copper wire than real silver. It's faster and more economical in a production environment to use a heavier (or lighter) bow screw to move the balance point. When weight is added at the screw end, less weight is needed to change the balance point.