Hey All,
I'm looking into purchasing an LG3005, and hoping you could help me out starting my venture with body wood/top wood and fingerboard recommendations.

I'm looking for a deep, fat, warm, punchy tone.

What would you recommend I start looking into.
I really like the way spalted maple looks, but not sure if its the best choice of a top wood for my tonal goals. I also know I'm looking into warmer, rosewood like fingerboards... but doesn't have to be "rosewood". Perhaps an exotic take on rosewood.

If you want to get into the preamp recommendations as well.. by all means.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
MG

Gaaaarrd! Oh Gaaaaaard!! He'll be here in a minute.


I would recommend a mahogany body, whatever top pushes your button, and the rosewood board. I would also install the Bart preamp.

Gaaaarrd! Oh Gaaaaaard!! He'll be here in a minute.

...huh???

:confused:


I would recommend a mahogany body, whatever top pushes your button, and the rosewood board. I would also install the Bart preamp.

...why did I post here?

(i.e. John's right on the money - although if you want a slightly less "compressed" tone, I'd substitute Spanish cedar for mahogany. :) )

...huh???
although if you want a slightly less "compressed" tone, I'd substitute Spanish cedar for mahogany. :) )

I would second the spanish cedar recommendation. Very nice and warm. It's what I'm getting for my LG3005 on order. And the B is still really tight and punchy. My warwick thumb-5 sounds floppy on the low-B compared with the Spanish Cedar LG I played. only 3 months to go, :hyper: right, gard? :ninja:

is cedar as tight as mahogany,
and is cedar as deep sounding as mahogany?

is cedar as tight as mahogany,
and is cedar as deep sounding as mahogany?

Keep in mind that any observation here is a generalized one, there is no absolute (each piece of wood is unique, and has unique attributes tonally).

Typically, cedar is not as "tight" (compressed) sounding as mahogany, it can be as deep, but as it isn't as "punchy" (which relates back to the "tight" or compressed quality of mahogany), usually it won't feel or sound as deep.

There is no hard & fast "rule" about this though, and I could easily find you examples of mahogany that have attributes closer to what Spanish cedar are known for, and vice-versa.

then mahogany it is!! thanks guys!
now
on to the top wood:
Forum member Diego has an absolutely beautiful top, IMO.
I seen it on http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=253004

what top wood is that! its beautiful!!!
also,
how would it compare to spalted maple (assuming its not spalted maple) which I don't think it is.

then mahogany it is!! thanks guys!
now
on to the top wood:
Forum member Diego has an absolutely beautiful top, IMO.
I seen it on http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=253004

what top wood is that! its beautiful!!!
also,
how would it compare to spalted maple (assuming its not spalted maple) which I don't think it is.


That IS spalted maple - exhibition grade I would say.

That IS spalted maple - exhibition grade I would say.

ah! no wonder why I like it. It must be tinted, or toned w/ a light brown, no?
excuse my know-nothing talk about finishing.

ah! no wonder why I like it. It must be tinted, or toned w/ a light brown, no?
excuse my know-nothing talk about finishing.

Nope, that's the natural color of the wood!

Maple, and in particular spalted maple, can have a very wide range of natural colors, due to inclusions, location in the trunk, type of figuring, and most importantly minerals that are contained in the water they grow in. I've seen maples with green, yellow, purple, orange, brown, pink and who knows how many other hues, in varying degrees of depth of color from almost not noticeable to looking like a totally different species of wood.

...huh???

:confused:




...why did I post here?

(i.e. John's right on the money - although if you want a slightly less "compressed" tone, I'd substitute Spanish cedar for mahogany. :) )

Spanish cedar, that's more like it!;)

But I'd go with the Aggie OPB-3....nicer highs (while still keeping nice mids and smooth lows).

..but I don't build 'em.....I just play 'em.:D

then mahogany it is!! thanks guys!
now
on to the top wood:
Forum member Diego has an absolutely beautiful top, IMO.
I seen it on http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=253004

what top wood is that! its beautiful!!!
also,
how would it compare to spalted maple (assuming its not spalted maple) which I don't think it is.


Modern Growl, tahnk you for the compliment and yes...the top on my bass is indeed spalted maple. It is a very beautiful piece of wood (courtesy of Gard for picking it up for me!). As for the tone...well, maybe I'm not as picky buy it sure sounds like maple to me. What I love is that the top is quite thick (not your average 5 mm top, but rather 10-12 mm) so it does impart some of the maple "sparkly" character and typical "zing" to the "warmth" and "acuostic vibe" of the spanish cedar. The result is a great instrument for chord and solo work (not boomy but with very good low end IMHO) while keeping very clear mids and high mids and crips highs without the "sizzle" or the more aggressive character of ash or a maple body. Just my humble opinion.

Diego

Hey All,
I'm looking into purchasing an LG3005, and hoping you could help me out starting my venture with body wood/top wood and fingerboard recommendations.

I'm looking for a deep, fat, warm, punchy tone.

What would you recommend I start looking into.
I really like the way spalted maple looks, but not sure if its the best choice of a top wood for my tonal goals. I also know I'm looking into warmer, rosewood like fingerboards... but doesn't have to be "rosewood". Perhaps an exotic take on rosewood.

If you want to get into the preamp recommendations as well.. by all means.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
MG

What about ziricote or walnut as a top? They would have some top end, but also give you warmth in the tone too.



(Of course there's always spray paint.):smug:

;)