When building a neck-thru does the neck get wider from the nut all the way to the butt-end of the body, or does the taper stop at the end of the fretboard? Or does the taper stop where it meets the body?

Like this:
http://berce.us/ebay/images/hs003/taperedd.jpg

or like this:
http://berce.us/ebay/images/hs003/not_tapered.jpg

Option A is easier to do, no reason to make the extra work for option B. A is just a straight line cut.

... and option A is more pleasing to look at. It just looks right, and B looks funny.

I would not suggest you use method #2 because the body wings would not be straight where they join the body and make for some complex joinery. I would use either method #1, which is perfectly fine, or my preferred method, where I start with the neck blank already tapered from nut to body end and then join the body wings parallel to the neck's edge instead of the centerline.

You can use either option. I have done both. I generally use straight neck, and taper for the fretboard. The other option can be easier for beginners, as you do not need to shape the fretboard area over the body. It is easy to tilt your rotuer a touch and scar the body. The only thing to remember is that you need to account for the angle in the body wings to create the correct shape. Basically just making the angle on the gluing edge to keep your shape. If you have good wodworking skills, I would stick wit the straight neck if only for appearence. If not, try the angle. If you take your time, either wll serve your purpose.

I used option A for my first bass. I not only greatly prefer the looks of the continuous line all the way down the neck and into the body, but it is also much easier to accomplish.

On my basses I keep the sides of the neck blank straight (untapered), and make the finished blank width either just a little bit wider than the end of the (tapered) fretboard (neck lams will show on top), or a little more narrow (neck lams show or are hidden under the top).

Ah, on further inspection, I mis-spoke. What I do is taper the whole neck-thru piece the whole length, and then glue the wings on. That way, the joints are the same line with the edges of the fretboard.

The top alternative is the easiest to understrand, why it's the most used. The lower alt. is more labour intensive, but once you get the hold of it, it facilitates a few advantages. One is less glue slip, another is the use of laminates that David King calls "stringers". Stringers can be used as design higlights, but also for several intreaguing functions....:ninja:

Why not do the King-stringer-thing with the taper-thru neck #1?

Why not do the King-stringer-thing with the taper-thru neck #1?
Possible, and the clean-the-mishaps-up time would be less. However, when the outer parts slide up the neck, it's not really a nice cleaning job...:rollno:

Yeah, I have always admired the effort that went into this one (as well as the end result): bravo, Tim!
http://www.barbermusic.com/basses/010/010_backfull.jpg
http://www.barbermusic.com/basses/010/010_oblique.jpg

very nice!....not trying to hijack the thread or anything but does that bass use the neck woods as the fingerboard. or was a fretboard made to look like the neck and then laid on top?

the more i look at this thing the more it amazes me....was each peice of the neck tapered and then laminated together?

Bryan in Mr. Hiscocks book, one of the proyects (there are 3) is a Telecaster guitar which it's neck and fretboard are one piece on wood so I guess this is the case.

That neck is just amazing!!! I've been staring each detail of it at least for the last 10 minutes!!! but psssst ...don't tell my boss :hiding:

Yes, Tim Barber made that one with the neck as one lamination, and then split off the fingerboard. The laminations are dimensioned such that the splits are exactly behind each string, so if you look at it full on you see the strings with varying colors in between, and no joints.
http://www.barbermusic.com/basses/010/010_frontclose.jpg

It's amazing what's possible if the necessary effort is applied! Anyway, I was citing that as an example of a case wher you know he had to figure out how to keep the tapered laminates from slipping, in order to make it work.

(On the plus side: it must have been very easy to figure where to drill the bridge screws!)

(On the plus side: it must have been very easy to figure where to drill the bridge screws!)
Don't do that! I'm running out of Kleenex for the screen! And having problems getting my breath back...:help:

:D

On the plus side: it must have been very easy to figure where to drill the bridge screws!Don't do that! I'm running out of Kleenex for the screen! And having problems getting my breath back...:help:

:DUrban, you are now officially an engineer-nerd.


Club meetings are Thursdays. Location: the cheapest bar in town. This week's agenda: 1. analyze billiards shots. 2. analyze beer. 3. complain about the auto industry.

;)

Urban, you are now officially an engineer-nerd.


Club meetings are Thursdays. Location: the cheapest bar in town. This week's agenda: 1. analyze billiards shots. 2. analyze beer. 3. complain about the auto industry.

;)
Gee, thanks!:)
See you there! I assume the meeting is in Anytown. :D

Gee, thanks!:)
See you there! I assume the meeting is in Anytown. :D
I think they moved it this month...it was in Anytown last month, this month it's in Yourtown. ;)