What are the specific materials I need before attempting to set up my bass?

Necessary Tools

- Set of automotive feeler gauges (.002 - .025) (0.05 – 1 mm)
- 6" (150 mm) ruler (with 1/32" and 1/64" increments) (0.05 mm increments)
- Light machine oil (3-in-1, toy locomotive, or gun oil)
- Phillips screwdriver
- Electronic tuner
- Wire cutters
- Peg winder
- Polish and cloth

Is that all? Where can I get all of this stuff? Is there some sort of package I can purchase?

The main thing you need is patience.

The second main thing would be an understanding of the sequence and effects of adjustments.

You really should read up on it before you start. It'll help you understand how and why different parts interact.

And where might I get this information? I'm not lazy, I'd just like to know a reliable source (preferably a free one online).

this forum is a great place to start

The reason why I'm buggin ya about it is because I'm buying a Squier Modified 70's Vintage Jass Bass (which I'm excited about) and I was contemplating whether or not to pay a pro to do it and NOT know how to set it up. My second option is to simply bite the bullet, spend the same amount of money (almost) to get the tools to set up my new bass myself (and I'd learn valuable skills). Thoughts?

I'm not talking about specific things here. I searched this section of the forum a bit and I haven't found anything definitive and concisive (no offense). I'm the type of guy that doesn't want to have to ask 5 people for one objective when I can post this and clearly discuss the issue concerning my new bass.

you really don't have to spend that much to get the tools, assuming you don't plan to do fret work. I use, a screwdriver, 2 different allan wrenches, and an electronic tuner.

The point of a setup is to make it feel nice to play, so you should be able to tell what it needs by how it feels, thats my opinion.

you really don't have to spend that much to get the tools, assuming you don't plan to do fret work. I use, a screwdriver, 2 different allan wrenches, and an electronic tuner.

The point of a setup is to make it feel nice to play, so you should be able to tell what it needs by how it feels, thats my opinion.

Before I reply I'd like to thank you for having the patience to help me with my huge investment in this bass. I hope I'm not bugging you.

I do not plan on doing fretwork. I don't have a tuner, i can't believe it. I must get one (I've been so used to using my ear since I've been classically trained that I forgot all about a tuner). I also need allen wrenches.

So what you mean is, keep adjusting till it feels right? I'm afraid I may break things. Is this trial and error method a positive experience?

I deffinently don't mind helping you at all.

If you buy the bass at a nice shop (not GC) ask them to do a few tweaks to get it set up right, ask if you can watch while they do. The worst they can do is say no, if they do, then you lost nothing.

I start my setups by checking neck relief, this is where many people use feeler guages. I use my eyes because I know what it looks like when it is how I like. Fret it at the first and aprox 18-20th fret and check how much space is between the string and aprox the 8th fret. People like anywhere from almost/perfectly flat (no/little space between string and fret) to about where you could fit a credit card between the string and fret. I like it towards the credit card end, but not quite there.

You alter the relief by adjusting the truss rod (this is where the big allan wrench comes in) no more than 1/4 turn per day, turn it clockwise to straighten the neck. counter clockwise to "bend" it. Don't be afraid to apply presure with your hands to help it along, particulary if you are straightening it. Many people remove string tension before adjusting the truss, I do not.

Next, I set the action. Action is adjusted at the bridge (this is where the small allan wrench comes in) I prefer medium/high action, but this is a personal preferance. You use the allan wrench to adjust set screws on the string saddle, and raise or lower the string. Action is measured from the 12th fret.


Next, I set the intonation (this is where the screw-driver comes in). Tune the strings, fret at the 12th fret and see if it is still in tune. If it is, that string is set, if it is flat, use the screw driver to adjust the saddle towards the nut, if it is sharp, move it away. Retune and repeat.

After I have done all of this, I check the pickup height (screw-driver again) usually it dosn't need messing with, but sometimes it does.

Once all this is done, I go over it and make sure everything is how I want it, a few last minute tweaks and it is done.

Blankstare77, I hope you dont mind me joining in this helpful thread. I am in the same situation as you. I have a G+L 2000 tribute. I want to change to TI flats after reading the positive posts about them here. There will be about 23 lbs less tension on these than my current D'addarios. I have never set up a bass before and want to learn. I am hoping a slight truss rod adjustment is all that's required.
Thanks to Spudmaster34 for an informative post, and apologies again for butting in.

Blankstare77, I hope you dont mind me joining in this helpful thread. I am in the same situation as you. I have a G+L 2000 tribute. I want to change to TI flats after reading the positive posts about them here. There will be about 23 lbs less tension on these than my current D'addarios. I have never set up a bass before and want to learn. I am hoping a slight truss rod adjustment is all that's required.
Thanks to Spudmaster34 for an informative post, and apologies again for butting in.
Hi, it's me again. I've read the sticky and it's very informative. I have one question. When I change to the TI flats should I tune up and wait 24 hours before doing anything to allow the neck to settle ? Thanks.

Hi, it's me again. I've read the sticky and it's very informative. I have one question. When I change to the TI flats should I tune up and wait 24 hours before doing anything to allow the neck to settle ? Thanks.

Waiting 24 hours after changing string gauges/types/tensions is a good thing. Some necks take a little while to adjust to new conditions. Some don't. But safest bet is to wait a day. Then, as Joshua says, measure first, then make adjustments if needed.

Here's a regimen I use when changing string types or gauges.

1. Before changing strings measure te setup of the instrument and tweak as necessary. Measurements include neck relief, string height and intonation. Write it down.

2. Change the strings and retune.

3. Play the instrument. Note how it feels compared to before the string change.

4. Measure the instrument (relief, string height, intonation). Write it down. Don't adjust anything yet.

5. After a few hours, play the instrument again. Note any difference in feel since the last time you played it. Measure it again, note the measurements, but don't adjust yet.

6. After 24 hours, play, measure and note. Then start adjusting. Relief first. Then string height. Then intonation. Play it and see if your adjustments made it play better. Re-adjust until you are happy with the result. Note the final measurements.

7. After several hours, play the instrument, see how it feels, and take the measuremets again. Don't tweak the adjustments.

8. After 24 hours, measure everything again and re-adjust if anything has drifted from your final measurements (step 6). If you make any adjustments here, repeat steps 7 and 8.

This may seem overly fussy, but it will tell you some useful things. First it tells you if your neck reacts significantly to a change of string type/gauge. Secondly it tells you how long it takes for your neck to "settle in" to the change. If you found that the neck continued to change in the first 4 hours, but not after that, then in the future you need only wait 4 hours after a string change to make adjustments. And you will also know how long it takes for adjustments to "settle in".

Now that you have all of this information you can shorten the process to the optimum time for future string changes.

I deffinently don't mind helping you at all.

If you buy the bass at a nice shop (not GC) ask them to do a few tweaks to get it set up right, ask if you can watch while they do. The worst they can do is say no, if they do, then you lost nothing.

I start my setups by checking neck relief, this is where many people use feeler guages. I use my eyes because I know what it looks like when it is how I like. Fret it at the first and aprox 18-20th fret and check how much space is between the string and aprox the 8th fret. People like anywhere from almost/perfectly flat (no/little space between string and fret) to about where you could fit a credit card between the string and fret. I like it towards the credit card end, but not quite there.

You alter the relief by adjusting the truss rod (this is where the big allan wrench comes in) no more than 1/4 turn per day, turn it clockwise to straighten the neck. counter clockwise to "bend" it. Don't be afraid to apply presure with your hands to help it along, particulary if you are straightening it. Many people remove string tension before adjusting the truss, I do not.

Next, I set the action. Action is adjusted at the bridge (this is where the small allan wrench comes in) I prefer medium/high action, but this is a personal preferance. You use the allan wrench to adjust set screws on the string saddle, and raise or lower the string. Action is measured from the 12th fret.


Next, I set the intonation (this is where the screw-driver comes in). Tune the strings, fret at the 12th fret and see if it is still in tune. If it is, that string is set, if it is flat, use the screw driver to adjust the saddle towards the nut, if it is sharp, move it away. Retune and repeat.

After I have done all of this, I check the pickup height (screw-driver again) usually it dosn't need messing with, but sometimes it does.

Once all this is done, I go over it and make sure everything is how I want it, a few last minute tweaks and it is done.

That was amazing! Thank you!

Thanks Turnaround. When I come to change I'll certainly follow your advice. ;)

Since I have a new Fender, I never have to bother with any truss adjustments because of the rods in the neck. I measure relief everytime, always where it should be.

What are the specific materials I need before attempting to set up my bass?

Necessary Tools

- Set of automotive feeler gauges (.002 - .025) (0.05 – 1 mm)
- 6" (150 mm) ruler (with 1/32" and 1/64" increments) (0.05 mm increments)
- Light machine oil (3-in-1, toy locomotive, or gun oil)
- Phillips screwdriver
- Electronic tuner
- Wire cutters
- Peg winder
- Polish and cloth

Is that all? Where can I get all of this stuff? Is there some sort of package I can purchase?

Most of the stuff on your list isn't necessary.

The one thing that's not on your list that should be at the top, is an old beater bass to practice on. The only thing required is that it not have a broken truss rod. Lots cheaper to mess up on a beater than it would be on your player bass.

Since I have a new Fender, I never have to bother with any truss adjustments because of the rods in the neck. I measure relief everytime, always where it should be.

Can you elaborate on that? Is it because it's new, or is it because it's a Fender?

Can you elaborate on that? Is it because it's new, or is it because it's a Fender?

newer MIA, and possibly other, fenders have CF stiffeners in the neck. These help it maintain it's shape. It sounds like he just got lucky and ended up with a bass with a rock solid neck. Even if you buy the same bass, the rock of a neck is fairly rare, I have a rogue with a neck that never moves, but you can ask other rogue owners, it isn't very common.

I would recommend the last 5 as the most handy tools I'd use when setting up my basses. If it's a beater bass I might not have use for the polishing stuff though.

My bare minimum setup kit includes a set of hex keys (I use a 22 piece SAE/metric set), wire cutters and #1 and #2 phillips screwdriver and an electronic tuner.

Feeler gauges and ruler are replaced by my eye, intuition and feel. Pegwinders are replaced by my good ol' wrists. I see no need in making it go faster, just leaves more room for sloppy winding.

I suppose polish is counted, but I'll take an old tshirt over a $5 polishing cloth any day. I mean, that's what it rubs against when I'm playing. Why should it get better treatment sometimes ;)