It farts, the output is of incredibly low quality signal or something. No matter what amp, cab, cable, gain setting, volume setting, plug I plug the amps into, it distorts my tone, I'm not clipping any amp. I assumed it just needed a new battery so I put a brand new 9v in, and it's just as bad. I am going to assume that it's the active electronics, since I don't have the same problem when it's in passive mode, but I really don't feel like keeping it that way. Can ANYONE help me figure this out? In the control cavity I don't really feel like poking around, it's a big jumble of mess, but looking, I don't see any cables disconnected. I love the feel of playing my bass, I just wish it would work and I could love the sound too....

btw...I am the original owner, bought it less than a year ago, but it IS a few years old, it was sitting in the music store for years.

It farts, the output is of incredibly low quality signal or something. No matter what amp, cab, cable, gain setting, volume setting, plug I plug the amps into, it distorts my tone, I'm not clipping any amp. I assumed it just needed a new battery so I put a brand new 9v in, and it's just as bad. I am going to assume that it's the active electronics, since I don't have the same problem when it's in passive mode, but I really don't feel like keeping it that way. Can ANYONE help me figure this out? In the control cavity I don't really feel like poking around, it's a big jumble of mess, but looking, I don't see any cables disconnected. I love the feel of playing my bass, I just wish it would work and I could love the sound too....

btw...I am the original owner, bought it less than a year ago, but it IS a few years old, it was sitting in the music store for years.


Get ahold of G&L. I think you have a 10 year warranty This is from their website:

Whether you're sure something is wrong or not sure, if you bought your G&L new (with warranty), then contact your dealer first. Often your dealer can make adjustments or even small repairs without the instrument needing to be returned to the G&L Factory in California. If you bought your G&L used (no warranty), you may contact G&L directly to arrange for your instrument to be serviced by the factory.

* In-warranty repairs in USA and Canada contact the dealer where you purchased your G&L


* Out-of-warranty repairs in USA and Canada:

John Toner (for repairs only)

Call (714)897-6766 extension 154 and leave a voice mail including contact information such that John can call you back within one business day.

Email John and he will reply usually within one business day.

PLEASE NOTE: John is only available for repairs. All other enquiries should be directed to your authorized G&L dealer, or for general discussion, please visit www.guitarsbyleo.com.

* All repairs outside the USA and Canada contact your national distributor.

I had a friend with symptoms like yours and they just mailed him a new chip (they are in a socket and easy to swap). This fixxed his problem.

If in active only there is a problem and you are the original owner take it back for warranty.

If not warrantied see the IC chip in the center of the circuit board? That is your preamp chip and is most likely bad. Call G&L and ask for one if you are not afraid of electronics. For a tech it takes longer to open the cavity than to change the chip.

Jim

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v186/spideyjg/Tech/Group024.jpg

You guys will probaly think I'm an idiot haha, because I've bought and returned like 5 different rigs this year trying to find one that would work with my bass, my local store kept telling me that the output was either too low or too hot. thousands of dollars later.... here I am.

I'll definately call G&L tomorow as soon as I can and get it straightened out. It wont void the warrenty to install the chip myself or get a local tech to? That would be the best option since it's my main (only) bass and I'm not comfortable shipping it to the states.

I will contact them as well. My Cherryburst L2K is suffering from the exact same symptoms. Distort-o-matic at all settings.

I will contact them as well. My Cherryburst L2K is suffering from the exact same symptoms. Distort-o-matic at all settings.

Run it passive. If the problem exist there I'd highly doubt it is the IC. To confirm pull the IC out of the socket. Still there, it is some other issue.

Jim

Passive doesn't seem to be nearly as affected. The only time I tried to play it live it had a nasty ground hum in passive mode. That symptom never showed up in practice.

I'm beginning to think that I'll have to send the whole machine back to Fullerton. :(

Just to rule it out, check the pickup height. They're all hot, but some can be more than others.

I've heard of situations where the system was too hot, even set at factory-recomended height specs.

Some players even remove the springs, then screw the pups all the way down into the rout.

It's possible the distortion issue could be fixed with a few turns of a screw driver. Just sayin....

I tried that one as well, screwed the pickups WAY down, but yeah I couldn't get ahold of them today, have to try tomorow.

Hey I can't find a number to call....can someone give me a hand?

Hey I can't find a number to call....can someone give me a hand?

Call the number in lug's post above. I think you'll get a menu, but eventually you can get to John in G&L repairs. I'm much more familiar with this than I'd like!

I'm having a similar problem when I pluck hard on my new L-1500's E string. It's distorting, but not clipping my amp's input stage. I lowered the pickups a bit, and raised the E string saddle some (which was also to cure some minor fret buzz), but it's still there. Then I noticed the odd, harsh overtones seem to exist acoustically, which is very strange. It's as though something is vibrating in sympathy with the string, and introducing harsh frequencies. But I suspect it's the string itself, so I'm planning to change them out today.

I tell ya, with all the trouble I went through just to get this bass (sent back twice for new necks), I'm starting to question my desire to move beyond Leo's originals. But the #8 neck is an outstanding piece of work, and the MFD has unbelieveable clarity and punch. I even dig the L-1500's active mode. So if I can eliminate this distortion, I think all will be aces.

That John guy is for out of warrenty repairs, which mine is not.

My dealer went under, I got this bass at their "we're selling everything to try and pay the debts" sale, I worked at the store, and still know the owners, but I don't want to make them go out of their way to do work for a phone number that I hope someone on here would have and can PM me.

BTW, the music store was 105 years old when it went out of business two weeks shy of a year ago today, one of the oldest music stores in North America:(

NedMundo- I assume you've heard about the "spring ping" issue where the springs holding up the pickup on some G&Ls need to be dampened or they make an audible noise at certain frequencies.....It could also be the E string has unwrapped from its core to some degree. Also, check to see that your saddle lock screw is either in all the way or not at all (depending on your preference), or it could vibrate against the saddles (though you probably wouldn't hear this one through an amp).

Karl

Thanks Karl. I'll check out the screws. I think it's the string, and your unwrapping theory makes sense. But maybe it just needs to be broken in, because it seems to be improving.

The chip is either a LM4250, or an LF441. The number is silkscreened on the chip. You can use a OPA704PA for either.

Texas Instruments link... (http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/folders/print/opa704.html)

You can get a sample of 5 from Texas Instruments by filling out some forms. I have me some.

Jim

What exactly does the chip do for the bass exactly spideyjg? Such as what would be the difference betwen the three you mentioned.

The chip IS the amplifier of the active circuit. It is the heart of it.

G&L has used both the LM4250 and the LF441. You may see either however I only have one bass, my Climax, with the LF441.

Daveplaysbass who does cruise through here is an electrical engineer and mad a big write up about chips over in the Dudepit.

He said the OPA704PA would work in place of either of the other 2 types. See which you have and find an electronics dealer to obtain a replacement one or just get some of those free samples from Texas Instruments

The IC is in a socket and very easy to change it out.

Jim

I have an extra LF441 if that's what's needed. let me know.

mine had some strange distortion almost like overdrive then when I adjusted the knobs I got a loud sound through my amp. got worse when I fooled with the preamp switch then it kinda went away for awhile

NedMundo- I assume you've heard about the "spring ping" issue where the springs holding up the pickup on some G&Ls need to be dampened or they make an audible noise at certain frequencies.....

Now that I've had it for a few days, and checked the bridge screws, I'm almost positive I have a case of spring ping. I can hear the metallic resonance coming from inside the body when I press my ear to the body. So that has to be it. I've never done pickup related surgery, but I guess it's about to start. You'd think it would be easy to address this in design and production.

Alright, I have an LM4250, and still just don't know what I'm supposed to do at this point, will putting an LF441 or OPA704PA in it's spot make my bass sound differently than it should? Are there tonal differences between the three kinds of chips, even if they all work correctly in that spot? Should I still be tracking down a G&L number to call?

Try to reach G&L but with NAMM this week that may be a challenge.

If there is a local electronics supply place ask them to try and get you a LM4250 or get an OPA704PA. You can, according to Dave, use a LF441 in the LM4250 circuit but not the other way around..

Jim

Ordered an LM4250 today.

Well, I got ahold of John today (G&L service). I'm supposed to send to beast back to them. I'm a bit worried about the price on a new preamp. He told me labor alone will be around $65-75. Shipping will be $30 each way.

Guh.

Greetings from the North,

Bite the bullet and go ahead and do it. It'll be worth it to get it done by John at G&L. Besides you can have the pleasure of telling your friends that your bass went on a trip to Cali.;)

Rezdog

It's going out UPS today. This will be my second G & L making the trip to Cali to visit John (my SB-2 is the first). I prefer to have them earning their way across the country, that way they can sightsee guilt-free. :bassist:

The chip that I ordered came in, so I went to get it, he ordered something completely different, he said it was the same thing as an LM4250 but it wasn't even a chip at all. Back to trying to get ahold of G&L, can anyone help me out with getting me their number? This is already taking way too long to be fixed, and is effecting my ability to play with my bands.

I pretty much had the same problem as the original poster and a guy in another thread, and I ended up putting in a new opamp chip (http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=304737) (the Texas Instruments OPA704PA) and that seemed to do the trick for me. It didn't take very long. I don't know much about bass electronics (never soldered anything a day in my life), but this was just plug and play. I just had to bend the prongs a little to fit correctly since they were a tiny bit wide. I would suggest this as a first course of action if anybody has preamp trouble before having to send a bass back.

John gave me a call last Wednesday. He says a whole new pre-amp is needed. Cost? $175.

Guh!

John gave me a call last Wednesday. He says a whole new pre-amp is needed. Cost? $175.

Guh!

It wasent covered under the warranty ?

Nope, it's out of warranty. I just was hoping that it wouldn't be that much. I'm trying to bring this bass back from the dead on-the-cheap and this isn't helping.

As a side note, John @ G&L was very good to deal with.

Before I send mine away I might just get them to send a new preamp and bite the bullet. 200 dollars for that might be cheaper than renting a suitable replacement while it's being repaired plus shipping on this ride from my house to the factory and back, look at how far it is, pretty much as far as can be.......

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/todd____stanley/gl.jpg

And here I thought you were a Newfie! :D :smug:

Got my L2k back on Friday. Plugged it in & it sounds great. Even better than my ASAT. Different pots & switches, judging by the action on them. Much stiffer, more like a good sound desk. (yes, I know that they will loosen up a bit, but this is beyond that)

Hooray! Result!