Well...thats basically it. I would like to remove the fingerboard on my wishbass. Believe it or not, the bass was constructed pretty well...all except for the fingerboard. Im sure the glue that was used is titebond or some kind of generic wood glue. I don't want to ruin the wood, it is still usable. I just want to take it off.

Best way is to cover it with a towel and steam it off with a iron and putty knife. Be careful not to get it too hot if the neck is laminated.

You better ask Steve what he used. It might not be titebond. It may be Gorilla glue or epoxy...t

Yeah and while you have it off, I would add a truss rod too.

If you want to salvage the board, that's going to be tricky. Steaming it will introduce warm water into it, which invites mold and rot.

Using a hot knife, on the other hand, underneath the board, for the purpose of melting the glue, might be your best bet.

I tried to steam a board off three years ago, and it was a mess. There were still chunks when I was finished. Not good.

I use a silicone heat blanket or an iron. No steam, just heat. As Andvari says, it is difficult to salvage the board, even with a hot knife.

I lot of glues start to become workable at around 165F. It's worth asking wish so you can find out the temperature you need to get to for sure.

what is the problem with the board?

what is the problem with the board?

+1 ...

one of the best parts of my wishbass is the purpleheart fingerboard...

wasn't perfect at first...

but oh how I like it now...

I've removed fingerboards a couple of times and reused them without any problems at all. Only problem I got on the first one is a couple of spots where it looks like the top of the fb started to scorch/burn a bit. Once you've removed the board clamp it flat right away and let it dry. After that just sand off the residue glue and reglue it to your neck.

Here's a tutorial on doing the removing.
http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/removal.htm

You can also see me doing that on my website in my sig. Click on the sunburst bass pic and you'll see me scrap my first neck, make a second neck and reattach the same fb. That bass is my main player and three years later there's nothing wrong whatsoever with that neck or fretboard.

You better ask Steve what he used. It might not be titebond. It may be Gorilla glue or epoxy...t

Epoxy for glueing fretboards?? :confused:

Epoxy for glueing fretboards?? :confused:

we are talking about a wishbass here...

send steve wishnevsky an email...he's really pretty good about communicating...you should get a resonse inside a few days, and if you don't try again.

I'm not sure what kind of glue steve uses, but it doesn't look like epoxy...it's a glue that dries quite hard and when dry has an opaque, tan colour to it. (gorilla glue?)

There are reputable bass makers that use epoxy for their fingerboards. Epoxy does not creep, among other things.

Lot's of good advice here. The only thing I do differently than Phil is use a dull putty knife. Intentionally and completely dull. The reason for this is that I want a wedge action to separate the heated glue. A sharp knife can dig in to good wood where a rounded and smooth leading edge will find the path of least resistance.

I don't know why people use stuff like epoxy on their fret boards or any other part that may need repair or replacement in the future. Hide glue is not difficult to use, completely reversable and has zero creep. Somtimes "cutting edge" materials and methods just can't beat what great grandpa used to do.

Greg

I don't know why people use stuff like epoxy on their fret boards or any other part that may need repair or replacement in the future. Hide glue is not difficult to use, completely reversable and has zero creep.

I agree 110%. The only creep I have found with hide glue is one local seller. A bit wierd....

Are you talking melting-pot hide glue, or liquid hide glue?

There are reputable bass makers that use epoxy for their fingerboards. Epoxy does not creep, among other things.

May I ask you who these reputable bass makers are?
You don't want to use epoxy for for glueing fingerboards (or body blanks, neck blanks, etc.) unless you want to lose tone..

May I ask you who these reputable bass makers are?
You don't want to use epoxy for for glueing fingerboards (or body blanks, neck blanks, etc.) unless you want to lose tone..
lose tone because… ?

what is the problem with the board?


First, at the end of the board where the nut lays is not true. The nut sits at an angle. The other day i was setting the bridge and intonation. The E and the A where dead on, but the D and G where way off, i had to shift my fingers at least half an inch. I tried to angle the bridge and that did not work. Second, the board has parellell dips in the wood around and past where the 12 fret would be(mwah to die for but the buzz is killin me)and an uneven radius. Third, the side markers are off as well(to be expected).

Is there a way that i can level the board and cut a new place for the nut without removing it? or should i take it off and make my own fretboard?

im not worried about running the board itself, just the wood. It is ipe however, so mold and rot are not an issue.

Aside from that the bass is great, the pickup is dead quiet. Unfortunatly.....the fretboard is one of the most import parts of the bass in order for it to play well:(