I hope, someone finds this useful or at least, interesting :)

http://www.dikid.hu/bm/proj_led_aftermarket.php

AND, -the pictures won't really show it- it's my best fretwork so far.
I hope, the owner will be happy with it :)

very nice work.

but I think removing the fretboard would have been easier :D

very nice work.

but I think removing the fretboard would have been easier :D

Yeah, sure, but I found this more challenging, and this way the original finish is unchanged..
I tried to avoid removing the FB, and succeed..:smug:

That looks great and wow, a lot of work.

People are always asking here if you can fret a fretless board. Can we send them to you now?

;)

Cool looking stuff!

But using an endmill in a drill chuck?:eyebrow:

"Can we send them to you now?"

-to Hungary? If they know, where it is in the map :):)

"But using an endmill in a drill chuck?"

-why not? as I don't have any other holder for that..

Hungary? Isn' that somewhere between Poland and the Czech Republic? LMAO

Nice work, and Kudos for facing the challenge headlong, most are afraid to take on such a task these days. Outstanding.

Hungary? Isn' that somewhere between Poland and the Czech Republic? LMAO

Nice work, and Kudos for facing the challenge headlong, most are afraid to take on such a task these days. Outstanding.

Thanks!
My country is -let's say- in the middle of Europe, to the south from the Czech Rep.
Geographical training :D

OFF: I've been using this nickname for years, when I found, that there's a place in Poland called Zolkow... no connection, of course. just reading Poland brought this up;)

"But using an endmill in a drill chuck?"

-why not? as I don't have any other holder for that..

They aren't built to withstand forces in the X and Y direction, only Z, so consequently they can deflect a fair bit. Not as much of an issue with wood compared to metal, but it depends on how much you are removing. It's much easier to dull and break cutters this way, though, because it produces chatter with much less feed than normal, and you aren't able to cut as much. You can probably get away with it in wood, though, but definitely not with metal!

They aren't built to withstand forces in the X and Y direction, only Z, so consequently they can deflect a fair bit. Not as much of an issue with wood compared to metal, but it depends on how much you are removing. It's much easier to dull and break cutters this way, though, because it produces chatter with much less feed than normal, and you aren't able to cut as much. You can probably get away with it in wood, though, but definitely not with metal!

That sounds useful, i'm new to milling machines...
thank you.

thats pretty cool, no way I would have the balls to try it

my friend did it in a similar way but we route the channel on side of the neck which make the route channel unseen when you hold the bass up with fb facing out. he did a nice and clean job, i can post some pics with his permission.

my friend did it in a similar way but we route the channel on side of the neck which make the route channel unseen when you hold the bass up with fb facing out. he did a nice and clean job, i can post some pics with his permission.

post some pics!

my channels are 99% invisible (from the viewpoint of 2":p ), and if that wouldn't be enough, they go exactly under the A and D strings :)

You are one seriously patient person! Awesome work!

I probably would have bought another pre-slotted pre-rasiused FB, installed conventional fiber optics in it, planed the original fb off and glued the new one on....Actually, I'de tell him to have someone else do it!

Nice job!

How did you drill from the dot holes into the channels? Is that black wire-thing a tiny flexible drill bit?

Nice job!

How did you drill from the dot holes into the channels? Is that black wire-thing a tiny flexible drill bit?

I've used a handheld drilling machine, and drilled small holes from the dot holes to the outside, slantwise. I did't have much room, but enough for the wires.

the black insulated wire is needed only at fret 12, the double dot, because I had to connect the LED's other pole to the farther channel. (all the other LEDs have one ch. left, one right)

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b123/dooft11/100_2289.jpg

but routing along the side, i avoid to touch any fret, jsut drill the smallest hole one can get running 90 to the neck aligning the center of the dot, then remove the dot, Led from top down, and the lead wire thu the small hole.. no refret, no touch to fingerboard.

Nice work!

Mine was erlier defretted, and now the friend wanted to convert back to fretted.

They both look very beautiful. A few questions though (I have a spare non-working cheap bass so I figure I might try something like this on it).

Has anyone tried to power the LED via the amp? Dont know if that possible but might something i'd like to have instead of a battery.

Also whats the liquid you will the holes with? epoxy?

Thanks,

BK

Has anyone tried to power the LED via the amp? Dont know if that possible but might something i'd like to have instead of a battery.

Also whats the liquid you will the holes with? epoxy?

Thanks,

BK

Yes, the stuff is an epoxy, which doesn't get clear, it remains opalescent, as you can see.

you mean fantom-powering from the cable, as the EBS heads do? (they have 9V on the RING contact of a stereo cable for effect units)

well we cover the dot inlay 'hole'- which is now the LED hole with clear plastic glued by epoxy as well.

For the battery i realy dont suggest drawing power from the preamp power source, the point is you dont want any unpredicted failure happen during your gig. and what if the circuit on the LED chain broken.. it may cut the pre circuit as well(depends on you wire them ). just not worth it .. in my 2 cents

OK, I'm going to need that on my G&L. I took the neck off and sent it to you. It's allready on the way so you can't say no.:D

I am joking of course. What is your address?

my leds operate at 3.2 Volts, and eats 20 mA each... that's 180 mA, so a 9V battery is empty in less than an hour, or so..
I'm powering them with 4 AA batteries, they should last at least 10 hours.
I find comlpetely weird that Alembic uses 9V batteries for LED operation (although not any type of leds eat that much power)
phantom powering is a good option, I think.
just check the output abilities of the source! (180 mA shouldn't be an issue, but who knows?)

Thanks for the info guys.
Will research phantom powering and see if that is something i'd like to try.