Well, I have a BTB 406QM from a buddy... its had Input jack problems, now its been professionally repaired 4 time's now, jack replaced 3 time's (No more Nutrik) and its been repaired by two different luthiers, both claiming it was a jack problem.

So i got the bass for $125, the thing is perfect, except of course the lack of all sound capabilities. Question is could it really be the Jack getting all messed up again and again and again? or what else could it be?

I get *ZERO* Sound out of it, nothing at all, no buzz no NOTHING.


Any idea's?

And on another different note... i've been told that i could "Rip out the electronics" and make it just a Passive Bass... now that i've never heard of personally and have no idea how to do it, is that possible if all else fails (DOnt want to buy more electronics for it really)

How often do you replace the 9-volt battery? Have you checked that, or replaced it recently enough?

And I gotta ask what kind of cable you're plugging into the input jack?

I have stopped using open input jacks, and I use the sealed-barrel input jacks, but I'm definitely considering converting all my jacks to Neutrik locking input jacks. If this is the type of jack you have, I'll perhaps avoid it.

I'd like to know what's the best quality input jack out there, as well.

I dont have a cable problem, I have removed the Nutrik jack, that one broke 3x then it was replaced with a normal one. Which also broke >.<

But the cables stay in fine, the thing is dead silent, no popping, scrathing / hissing. not any sign of sound.

+1 on checking the battery. And if it's anything like my 405, it's an 18V system so it'll have 2 9V batteries in there.

+1 on checking the battery. And if it's anything like my 405, it's an 18V system so it'll have 2 9V batteries in there.

I checked them, they are both new.

I'd say have it fixed and don't let the guy you bought it from play it. Input jacks don't just break.

Dingwall has been using Neutriks on all his basses for years now, so I doubt it's a jack problem. Either an electronics, or a user problem.

User: are you certain that the cable and amp are OK.

Electronics: someone's got to take the bass, and check for output direct from each pickup, then just prior to the preamp, then just after the preamp, then just before the jack, in order to determine where the problem is. This is complicated by the fact that a problem at a point in the chain can also cause evidence upstream as well as downstream, so you may have to disconnect the parts of the chain in order to diagnose where the broken link is.

Neutrik is a good brand.

What kind of jack is it? Is it a top-mount, a Neutrik locking jack, or a barrel-style flush mount?

Jacks are pretty simple mechanically. Did any of the "pros" tell you what seemed to be wrong with the jacks, or only that replacing the jack fixed it?

If it were me, I'd be looking at how the jacks are supposedly failing and thus what might be breaking the jacks. What could the electronics be doing to a jack to break it? The only thing that can really go wrong with one is that the continuity between the jack and the plug is being lost on any one of the three legs (sleeve, tip, or ring) -- either by the surfaces' conductivity being lost or by the mechanical contact being broken by being bent or smashed.

Or the solder joints are being broken/going cold.

have you made sure its turned up? :hiding: ........ it happens

have you made sure its turned up? :hiding: ........ it happens

ROFL at least you made me laugh about it ;p

I've used multiple amps / cables, taken off the control plate and seen the cords making good contact. Plugged it into a Tuner as well, no movement on the tuner Arm its just not creating sound..

Well, it was fixed once and i think it may have been a solder problem, im going to try and contact the first owner (My other friend)

And the Neutrik jack is long gone, its not on the bass anymore its just a standard one now, like you would find on a fender.

I could maybe have the connections re soldered.


mmm what else? All the other basses work fine with all cords and all amps. mmm, i think i covered it.

Neutrik is a good brand.

What kind of jack is it? Is it a top-mount, a Neutrik locking jack, or a barrel-style flush mount?

Jacks are pretty simple mechanically. Did any of the "pros" tell you what seemed to be wrong with the jacks, or only that replacing the jack fixed it?

If it were me, I'd be looking at how the jacks are supposedly failing and thus what might be breaking the jacks. What could the electronics be doing to a jack to break it? The only thing that can really go wrong with one is that the continuity between the jack and the plug is being lost on any one of the three legs (sleeve, tip, or ring) -- either by the surfaces' conductivity being lost or by the mechanical contact being broken by being bent or smashed.

Or the solder joints are being broken/going cold.

It was a Locking Jack, and we all had no idea what happened to it, took it into a shop and they said it was the jack, they replaced it with a standard jack (no drilling done, same spot) and then it worked... for awhile. now it doesn't again.

No sound at all sounds more like a short circuit than an open circuit. If that's the case, that could be caused by a live wire somewhere making contact with a grounded wire, cavity shielding, pot body, etc.

Post a picture of the cavity.

No sound at all sounds more like a short circuit than an open circuit. If that's the case, that could be caused by a live wire somewhere making contact with a grounded wire, cavity shielding, pot body, etc.


Hrmm, i have a friend who is an electrician, i dont think he can fix the bass but im sure he could use his tools to pinpoint the problem, tho he has fixed instruments before, haha.

Hrm... well just now with the control plate open i was just smacking the strings and making noise, then i was touching the wires and i got a small sound out of it.

I found that one of the wires is charred, however this wire is only for the mid control, I think it needs to be rewired...

But. I was also thinking of something i read, how you could turn an Active bass to a Passive bass. Any walk through on how to do that ?

Just a thought - do you let the cord hang from the jack or do you loop it around your strap pin first?

If you're going through a lot of jacks that's the first thing I'd look at.

Secondly, jacks rarely just quit, they usually get "crunchy" sounding and cut out when you wiggle the plug long before they completely fail.

I'm also thinking that while you're playing, the weight of the cable and/or yanking on the cable (like accidentally stepping on it, getting caught on a stomp box) has put too much side force on the jack, and is prematurely wearing it out.

Like Sheldon asked, do you loop the cable around your strap first?

And if there's a charred wire on the mid control, you've got more problems than are being revealed.

Changing active to passive means tearing out all the old pots and preamp modules and replacing them with passive ones. If you have a 3-band EQ you may have a hard time filling all the pot holes with passive controls.

It's hard to imagine how a wire coming out of the preamp could be charred but at that point I'd say toss the preamp. Either have a Bartolini put in or go passive.

Just a thought - do you let the cord hang from the jack or do you loop it around your strap pin first?

If you're going through a lot of jacks that's the first thing I'd look at.

Secondly, jacks rarely just quit, they usually get "crunchy" sounding and cut out when you wiggle the plug long before they completely fail.

Yeah i know, i dont know if i mentioned this, but i just got this bass yesterday from a friend, but both he and I wrap the cable around the strap.


I'm also thinking that while you're playing, the weight of the cable and/or yanking on the cable (like accidentally stepping on it, getting caught on a stomp box) has put too much side force on the jack, and is prematurely wearing it out.

Like Sheldon asked, do you loop the cable around your strap first?

And if there's a charred wire on the mid control, you've got more problems than are being revealed.

Neither of us stepped on the cord while playing or yanked it, we've had many basses and havent had this.

And its one wire, its severed and looks singed...

Changing active to passive means tearing out all the old pots and preamp modules and replacing them with passive ones. If you have a 3-band EQ you may have a hard time filling all the pot holes with passive controls.

It's hard to imagine how a wire coming out of the preamp could be charred but at that point I'd say toss the preamp. Either have a Bartolini put in or go passive.

I had: Volume - Blend - Lo Mid - High Mid - Treble/Bass (Stack)

I might put in a Bartolini setup i really like barts, but if i can take it to a shop and have it fixed for cheap and let it work till i get that money that would be ideal for me.

Well, thanks a lot for all your help and suggestions, Im thinking i'll just get it turned into a passive bass, and upgrade the pickups another day, when i have some spare scratch.

I love the fender tone, just dont like the actual bass much. So im hoping for a big fat fender tone with a 24 fret 6 string bass... that would be amazing.

Thinking Bart's and Hi-beams... creamy ;p

Its very hard to mess up an input jack. I didn't replace the original one in my Carvin until after over 30 years of usage... unless of course you've been stepping on your cable when its plugged into the bass! (got it threaded the right way thru your strap?)

Sounds like you need to buy and learn how to use a 'multimeter'. Thats the first tool you need to buy even before a soldering iron for doing anything with electronics. There is no substitute for that meter in isolating signal issues. It will pay for it self the FIRST time you fix a problem using it.

hehe, yes i dont step on the cord, and have been playing for some time now

And i swear i must have said this maybe, like. 1500 time's but THIS WAS NEVER MY BASS, i posted this within TEN minutes of getting it, so *I* (Rakie) didnt do a damn thing wrong !!!!

LOL was my buddies


But yeah my friend has something like that, my electrician friend hehe. He'll be able to take a look at it and see if there are any dead wires, or just something in the current not running properly. Now, he can find the problem but he cant fix it. so at least i'll know whats wrong with it.

Post close up picture of cavity

Post close up picture of cavity

I would if i could, but alas... i fail, for i have no Digital camera anymore : (