Ahoya,
As requested from a few TBers, I will attempt to explain how I build my bridges. This is my first tutorial, and I am definitely not a pro at building Basses and bridges. My skill will improve just like yours. Here we go.




This is what you will need. Template (or whichever other method you choose to use) bridge blank, extra big, I like to shape the bridge down to final size after the grooves are made, you will also need machine head screws, some springs, a Tap matching the machine heads, and basic tools to work wood and metal.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z156/HeinekenTW/IMG_0056.jpg

This is the template, I screw the blank on it, making sure that everything is nice and square. I also screw the template on the workbench to avoid it moving around while working.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z156/HeinekenTW/IMG_0057.jpg

Then I put on the template 'top piece'. This part slides over the two edges and has little clearance with the blank. There are two guides on the top piece, which are square, and are as wide as the router base, but the guides are longer than the router base. In my case, the equation is this: Base of router (mm) / by two, - Bit width / 2 + distance you want from the edge of the bridge to the saddle groove. With this Bass, my router is 146mm, bit is 5/8 (16mm) and I needed 3mm between the edge of the bridge and the saddle groove. so... 146 / 2 - 16 / 2 - 3 = 62. so by then you have figured out you place the edge of the blank 62 mm from the Guide (or stopper, on the Base of the template). you still following? Do the same thing for the other side of the bridge, I ended up taking off the bottom stopper and starting the cut from the bottom. Then it is important to screw and draw a line on both the top piece and base (with a ruler lined up with the 'top piece' guide, to make sure it is square too. Then, mark your grooves, according to the string spacing you want.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z156/HeinekenTW/IMG_0058.jpg

I took off the top piece and this is what I get. notice how the bottom stopper is gone now, I started the cut from the bottom, through the pine, and ended 3mm from the edge because of the stopper of course.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z156/HeinekenTW/IMG_0065.jpg

Holes must be drilled for the machine heads, be sure to leave enough clearance between the threads and the bottom of the saddle groove. Use a fence. In fact use a fence for most of what you do in a shop.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z156/HeinekenTW/IMG_0066.jpg

Cut the Brass or Aluminium to make the saddles, this depnds on what kind of Brass you can get your hands on. I use a 'Cremone' which is window hardware, 5/8 wide and 8 mm thick. I cut the saddle grooves to precisely 5mm and the saddles at 10mm which is 15 in total, then I take out about 2mm for the notch (where the strings sit in). so 13mm at the end, that was my desired height for the strings.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z156/HeinekenTW/IMG_0064.jpg

Hole for machine head screws are drilled on each saddle.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z156/HeinekenTW/IMG_0068.jpg

Holes are tapped, dont forget to order a few, and to use oil, these things can snap if you try tappin a 19mm thick piece of metal. I used 5-40 screws and tap, which is a little big to my liking, but thats what was available.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z156/HeinekenTW/IMG_0069.jpg

Then I work the wood to its final shape, I sand it. I do the same for the Brass saddles.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z156/HeinekenTW/IMG_0072.jpg

I drill the holes for the anchoring screws, of course with a fence. And check out the string height to see if its ok. Polish the whole thing, Oil the wood or whichever finish you prefer. Dont forget to use CA for those little 1/8 strips of wood between the saddles.

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z156/HeinekenTW/IMG_0073.jpg

And on that my friends, I wish you luck. Its very important all of these steps are done with a good ruler, and a square, and a fence ! This aint framing for a house, but if you've gone as far as building your own Bass, I figure you are very well aware of this. Peace ! :smug:

-Mario-

And if anyone knows whats going on with those pictures... I would appreciate your help.

you'll want to use links that look like

http:// i189.photobucket.com/albums/z156/HeinekenTW/IMG_0056.jpg

instead of

http:// s189.photobucket.com/albums/z156/HeinekenTW/?action=view&current=IMG_0056.jpg

the first is a IMG, the second is a URL.

Genius Ehque, Thanks. A lot better now.

Thanks!

sweet Mario!

You can also drill and tap for small hex set screws for height adjustment (vital!). Great job.

That is for the next prototype Wilser. Im havin trouble finding small screws with no head.

awesome post, ill never use it, cause me and wood working dont mix, but awesome post.

T2W have a look in model shops. I also work with model Nitropowered cars, though it's on a backburner with my build underway, but there's plenty of small headless hex screws in those things. they're mighty small though...

That looks excellent, although i think i would be tempted to have a thicker front wall and loose a bit of intonation adjustment, or get slightly longer screws.

Genius Ehque, Thanks. A lot better now.

no probs, my second nature, this com stuff.

Nice bridge!

And its not in the How-To Section because....?

.... because the Mod hasnt seen it yet. by the way, I wouldnt mind building one of these for someone, if you want you can PM me and we could discuss. Height adjustment is the next step on this bridge, and if it aint this one, it will be the next one.. Peace.

Small set screws should be available at most hardware stores. They work well for set screws.

Also, as a carpenter, there is a lot of squaring and measuring in framing a house. You don't just bang it together or you will have major problems with drywall cracking, walls shifting with the seasons, trusses that don't fit correctly, things like that.

lowsound

T2W... this is a really really nice tutorial!!!!

Small set screws should be available at most hardware stores. They work well for set screws.

Also, as a carpenter, there is a lot of squaring and measuring in framing a house. You don't just bang it together or you will have major problems with drywall cracking, walls shifting with the seasons, trusses that don't fit correctly, things like that.

lowsound

Ya I agree.. Just saying it aint the same size, definitely not the same precision, 1/16 aint as bad in framing as it is in buidling a Bridge or fretting a neck.

Thanks... I've been pondering this for a long time. One question, the CA goes on the vertical sides of the 1/8th strips? (I guess... where else!)

I always feel smarter when I answer my own questions?

I have small screws with no head... allen screws from an actual bridge... 8 of them. http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=331045

It would be cool to have one of these bridges but I only do 4 stringers myself...

And its not in the How-To Section because....?


Listen buddy, get off my butt!






;)



Actually, I did see it the moment it went up, but was waiting for the picture issue to be resolved. It's in there now.

sweet Mario!

You can also drill and tap for small hex set screws for height adjustment (vital!). Great job.

If you're gonna do that, then it would make sense to make thin brass "shims" for the screws to rub over when adjusting the intonation otherwise you'd dig grooves into the wood...

Wow! Cool bridge! Do you have a desing for a top loading bridge?

Listen buddy, get off my butt!






;)



Actually, I did see it the moment it went up, but was waiting for the picture issue to be resolved. It's in there now.
Thank you your modness.

Thank you your modness.


My modness is at your disposal :)

Wow! Cool bridge! Do you have a desing for a top loading bridge?

modify bridge design by copying it in symmetry. meaning, your routes don't run off one end, there's a "closed pool" where the brass bit sits.

Drill edge holes the same way on the bridge end of the bridge (mimicking the intonation adjustment screw holes) and use those to load strings.

I'd imagine you'll want to strongly reinforce that, seems like it might rip out.

well, that bridge is cool. but how's the sonic quality ??
considering the base plate is made from wood.

well, that bridge is cool. but how's the sonic quality ??
considering the base plate is made from wood.

Sorry, I dont believe in that anymore, not when you have 18volts grabbing your tone by the balls.

Sorry, I dont believe in that anymore, not when you have 18volts grabbing your tone by the balls.

Even 9Volts...........I can't imagine a bridge that would change the tone more than a 1/8 turn of a bass/treble/mid knob wouldn't fix quickly.

Even 9Volts...........I can't imagine a bridge that would change the tone more than a 1/8 turn of a bass/treble/mid knob wouldn't fix quickly.

Exactly, I figure a normal bridge is all metal screwed onto wood, where as mine is metal on wood screwed on wood. Only Engineers that work in mastering facilities would tell the difference.... and they won't buy my bridge. hehehehhe. No but seriously... I believe in this kinda stuff on an acoustic, but not electric, at least, only to a certain extent. Peace.
-Mario-

+1 million, im sure that building a bridge like that would be a lot more cost effective (by about $40-50) plus it looks a lot better (especially yours haha)

cost effective? quite, actually this bridge in the tutorial cost me about 18$, however that is for the screws and tap only, in a pack of 100, so im good to build about 20 bridges for 5 strings with 18$ worth. I dont pay the Brass, use leftover wood from the neck blank or whatever. so yea... I would say cost effective as well, when you consider a damn hipshot is like 120$!

cost effective? quite, actually this bridge in the tutorial cost me about 18$, however that is for the screws and tap only, in a pack of 100, so im good to build about 20 bridges for 5 strings with 18$ worth. I dont pay the Brass, use leftover wood from the neck blank or whatever. so yea... I would say cost effective as well, when you consider a damn hipshot is like 120$!

Haven't done this, yet....but have discussed....

my brother has two CNC machines...if I want a DIY bridge...I just send the CAD drawings to him....he programs his machine, and woila...I can have made out of hardwood, aluminium, brass, stainless...whatever I like....

Now, THAT's cost effective....;)

for you... your brother paid what?.... 80k? hahahahhahha. Thats quite awesome though, dont say that too loud, im sure some guys here wouldnt mind sending you some drawings of their designs !

Quick question:

I have always wanted to try my hand at building a wooden bridge. My only concern is where do you place your bridge ground (To the string ferrules)?

Very well done, and thank you for the tutorial.

You are very welcome. For this one, yes I did ground the string ferrule, the G string, since it is closest to the control cavity, and (obviously) used a brass nut that way all the strings are grounded and not just the G.

Thanks Mario, this is very informative and looks like you did a very nice job. Adding height adjustments would be really easy if you can find set screws small enough. Either way nice job :)

Why not raise the whole bridge? If the radius is acceptable, why not. Simply adjust the bridge in two halves, double bass style.

not sure how raising the entire bridge would affect the sustain or stability of the unit...

Good point. You've got some nice work, SDB.

sorry guys, im right in the middle of putting set screws on two new bridges im buildin. It seems a lot better to do it this way...

sorry guys, im right in the middle of putting set screws on two new bridges im buildin. It seems a lot better to do it this way...

Thats probably best in the long run.
I was wondering about making wood or brass shims the same size as the rout cavity to slide up under each saddle as needed...

My friend is quite good at finding hard to find fasteners..

www.oemhardware.ca

Unless you want to buy over 500k then I would gladly help you as I am the purchasing manager for a fastener importer in Canada.:hyper:

Thanks for the tutorial, it really helped push me in the right direction for my bridge. Next I need to make a tail-piece out of metal!

http://www.jonsbasses.com/gallery/d/1173-1/8-String+Fretted+22.jpg

B-E-A-UTIFUL!!!

Lookin' good, Jon!

sweet inlay! sweet bass!

Thanks guys. :D

Nice bridge and tutorial well done. I would be interested in an all wood one for a heavily chambered bass. You got me thinking that is for sure.

If you're gonna do that, then it would make sense to make thin brass "shims" for the screws to rub over when adjusting the intonation otherwise you'd dig grooves into the wood...

Or maybe a thinner copy of the brass piece under it w/ dimples to hold the ends of the screws.


Matt

Thanks for the tutorial, it really helped push me in the right direction for my bridge. Next I need to make a tail-piece out of metal!

http://www.jonsbasses.com/gallery/d/1173-1/8-String+Fretted+22.jpg


Hey Jon, that bass looks amazing! Off the chain.....kudos!

Any chance to see that brigde finished?