I originally posted this is Misc, but had no response really. Hope someone here can help :D


So my family is fortunate enough to own several acres here in beautiful east Texas. However, the threat of being "bought out" by a mining company is very real and could happen very soon.

Though this is the "piney woods", and the land has been logged before, there are still a few VERY nice old trees left. Most notably are a few black walnuts, a few maples, and some cedar.

After discussing the issue with my father, he has given me free reign to cut whatever trees I want, specifically for music wood.

So, my question is, has anyone cut their own wood?

Or, can anyone give me some info on what exactly I am looking for? I am flying blind on this, as I have zero knowledge on what to do (except I can cut down a tree like a pro )

So, when the tree is down, what do I do?

Hire a guy with a large portable bandsaw specifically for this kind of logging (the saw is so big they tow it behind the truck on a trailer). Try to get them to quartersaw it as much as possible, no thinner than 2"+.

Then stack & sticker it someplace covered and dry for at least a year per inch of thickness. Or see if you can find someone with a kiln to dry it out faster (you want 6-8% moisture content).

wow, if you manage to pull this off, will you be selling the wood after you dry it?

wow, if you manage to pull this off, will you be selling the wood after you dry it?


I have several guys, who in exchange for their help, will have access to any of the use-able wood. After that, possibly :D


One of my friend though, just finished Luthier school, and will probably buy any leftovers.

Ive cut numerous trees before, it aint easy. Drying it properly is the hardest part. Ash and Walnut are woods that dry very well with very little cracking. Poplar and Birch can be a real b****. Ive posted a lot of info on the subject and I dont wanna repeat it, you can do a search... other than that... As soon as the tree is down, cut it in slabs, ideally with a mill (if you dont have access to a mill, build your own, you can do this with 2x4 and a brand new chainsaw blade) the idea of a mill is to get the cleanest cuts possible to avoid too much loss. Then put it somewhere to dry, just like Erik mentioned, you can do this outside under a tarp (youre in Texas, its all good) or even better, inside with a fan to keep air circulating. Even better than that is to kiln dry it, thats what I did with most of my wood, and I can bring a freshly cut tree down to nicely cut pieces at 6% MC in about 2 months time. Some might think this is too fast, but think again, no cracks... no checks... and most important of all, the wood is now on a Bass and it hasnt moved AT ALL in over three months. Invest in a good Chainsaw, a good moisture meter and you will be fine. Have respect for the trees.... without them we would not be alive, we would not have instruments, we would nnot have fire, we would be dead.... respect... what I am saying is go in the forest and find a tree that is dead but still standing, not only are you saving money, you are being environmentally friendly. If you want more info, you can PM me... in the meantime check out this site: www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/for/for55/for55.htm · Page en cache


Its got a whole lot of good info. Good Luck.

A tanks for all th great info so far guys. However, most of the info has been on drying, and some on cutting.

I will do a search, but I am really looking for info on what I am looking for for when the tree is on the ground. How do I find the quits, flames, burls, spalts, ect? and once I find them, what do i do with them? :D

search time!

I ve cut some stuff before, I try to look for trees that are stressed, heavy on the bottom (maple), deseased, and disfigured rather then sraigth tall ones. Mill in large blocks first, since those portable guys are often $/per lfoot then dry and resaw after.
Burls can be sliced of in thinner pieces you will get more pretty stuff and it doesn't have to be thick.
Curl shows up in flatsawn cuts closer to the bottom of the trunk where fibers are compressed under the weight of the tree.
Leave a complete log on the ground for a year or two you will get some nice spalted stuff.

Burls are easy, they are like big warts on the side of the trunk. Often near the base, but not always.

Flame/quilt comes from parts of the tree that are stressed (i.e. move alot) during growth (so trees exposed to the wind will tend to have more, those protected from the wind will have less or none). Look for it near big crotches as well. It is difficult or impossible to see it with the bark still on.