OK, so my understanding of the zero fret idea is that the zero fret is supposed to be slightly higher than the other frets. In my brain, this sort of misses the point. Granted, I am the guy who always files my nuts down (ahem....) as they always seem to be cut too high for me. My idea with the zero fret is that it functions just like a regular fret, only the open strings are always fretted on it. Almost like it were the first fret, and the bass had a capo on it. In that sense, having the zero fret taller/higher doesn't seem to make sense. Am I nuts??

Thanks,

Lee

You're not nuts at all. The idea of a zero fret is to be the same height as all the others. Not the way you first stated.

Some people do do it the way you first mentioned, however. The only benefit I can imagine is allowing you to bang on an open string harder than you could otherwise do--same as with a high-cut nut. The downsides would be poorer intonation and more fretting force required.

See, everything I have read about zero frets describes the instalation like this: install all the frets except the zero, level/crown etc, then put in the zero. That makes the zero just a wee bit taler than the rest. On the bass in question, it feels like a slightly too high nut. Fretting down below about the 5th fret or so is just a tad "stiff". Methinks I'll take her down level with the rest.

Lee

YAY for zero frets

You're not nuts at all. The idea of a zero fret is to be the same height as all the others. Not the way you first stated.

Some people do do it the way you first mentioned, however. The only benefit I can imagine is allowing you to bang on an open string harder than you could otherwise do--same as with a high-cut nut. The downsides would be poorer intonation and more fretting force required.
+1

I also prefer a brass nut so the open strings are coupled with an acoustic material that is the most similar to the frets (hard metal) for tonal consistency. Another benefit is longer wear than bone, graphite, or other synthetics.

See, everything I have read about zero frets describes the installation like this: install all the frets except the zero, level/crown etc, then put in the zero. That makes the zero just a wee bit taller than the rest. On the bass in question, it feels like a slightly too high nut. Fretting down below about the 5th fret or so is just a tad "stiff". Methinks I'll take her down level with the rest.

Lee
Well, you can read TB then... there are at least a few people who, as a matter of course, lay in all the frets, including the zero, and level them together.

I haven't done it, but there is one small issue I might take into consideration. You're in no more danger of accidentally making the zero lower than the 1 than you are of making the 1 lower than the 2, etc., as long as you are careful not to take your leveling block to far up the neck: in other words, if your block is normally contacting, say, 8 frets at once when you're in the 7th fret region, but when you get to the head you take the block so far out that you're only contacting the 0, 1, & 2 frets, and if you're using the same pressure throughout, then you may over-grind the zero because there's actually more force on it (same force distributed over fewer frets).

Similar idea to, when sanding a flat wood surface, lightening up at the perimeter so you don't round it over.

The zero fret can be left a little higher than the other levelled frets, even if it's just a tiny bit, not left at full height necessarily, depends how much you reduce the height of the other frets.
The reason you might leave it a tad higher I think is that, when you fret a string, particularly if you press down quite hard just behind the fret the string can sort of hump up over the fret. The string is quite fat and stiff and so this means the actual effective height of the string coming of the top of the fret is a little higher than if you just press the string to the top of the fret (like you can do when checking neck relief, are you familiar with doing this?)

With the zero fret you don't get this effect so you might need that tiny bit of extra height to ensure it plays clean and buzz free in the open position.

How much this matters to you will I think depend on:
1. how hard you tend to fret
2. how high you set the bridge

If you fret with a light touch and / or if you set the bridge with a little spare clearance, as you might do if you're keen to guarantee it's buzz free all the way up the neck anyway then I think you'd add little or nothing to the zero fret.

If you fret hard and set the bridge as low as possible I think you might want to give that little bit extra to the zero fret.

Does anyone have thoughts on this?

I set and level all my frets - zero fret included - all at the same sitting. my ZF's are leveled the same height as all of the other frets.

my clients (mony who never had previously played a zero fret bass) have nothing but compliments on the feel, sonic consistency, and playability. many of them play with a heavy hand and hard plucking. many play with a light touch and light plucking. many play with a light touch and slap. all have had no issues with the zero fret leveled like all the other frets.

personally, I play with a light touch and medium plucking hand. I control the amount of allowable string noise with a set-up that contributes to my playing style ... and my strings are quite low with a flatter relief than others prefer. it is definitely a totally different feel than a stock MIM Fender at GC

I have had NO wear issues with the zero fret. it wears better than a bone nut IME

all the best,

R

zero fret is AWESOME