My AAAAAA flamed bubinga/mahogany bass body is looking good after about 6 coats of Danish Oil and 1 wetsand. Photo below:

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r309/lonnybass/New%20bass%20build/IMG_0674.jpg

Generally speaking, I'm extremely pleased with the results. However, I've noticed that there are a few patchy spots and areas on the bubinga that appear to be quite reflective and glossy when viewed from certain angles depending on the light, and other patches that are more matte. It's kind of interspersed throughout, and again only noticeable when viewed from certain angles.

Is this something that should/needs to be addressed by either wetsanding again or (dry) fine surface sanding the bubinga? Should it be completely even-looking before I apply the wipe-on poly? Or is it a matter of only wet/dry sanding certain spots to get the glass-like finish? Or do I just leave it alone?

Just want to make sure I get this important step addressed before I move on to the next step of applying the protective topcoat of polyester. Looking forward to your ideas!

Lonnybass

First, super-stinkin' nice top you got there! And the blend of colors between the bubinga and the mahogony is really tight. With that figure, I like the fact that I don't see a white or light color lam between top/body.

If I remember correctly and am understanding what's what, wet sand with the danish oil, wipe with a cloth to take off the surface buildup (what was called a "slurry" of wood dust and oil) and let it dry. Repeat. This will work oil and the dust/oil mixture into those patches of extremely fine surface irregularities, eventually creating a smoother overall surface.

The last time I did bubinga, I did the same thing, working my way up through 400, 600, 800, 1000, 2000 grits of wet/dry papers. This process eventually cleared up all of those patches that seemed to suck up the oil and look dry and non-reflective while the other areas were nice and shining.

.....areas on the bubinga that appear to be quite reflective and glossy when viewed from certain angles depending on the light, and other patches that are more matte. It's kind of interspersed throughout, and again only noticeable when viewed from certain angles.

Is this something that should/needs to be addressed by either wetsanding certain spots to get the glass-like finish? Or do I just leave it alone?

Lonnybass

Lonnybass, what you are describing is probably..probably since I don't have the wood in hand... normal light refracting from the curly grain sidewalls. Curly figure is a result of undulating grain and when sawn thru in the radial plane light refracts from the side of the undulation causing a "three D affect" of depth. Each sidewall of a single undulation is either positive or negative and will reflect dark or light. View a dark line, reverse it and it becomes light. View a light line, reverse it and it becomes dark. No amount of finish will ever change this physical property.

This is a simple explanation without going into wood fiber stuff and may or may not be the source of your inquiry, but since your description describes it as changing with the angle is certainly suspected.

Larry and Paul-

Thank you both for your detailed explanations. I'm still torn between what, if anything, to do next. The surface appears to be quite smooth and free of rough patches, but I have noticed that certain areas that reflect as gloss are either directly on dark spots or light ones.

Do you think it makes sense to do a extra fine 150 wetsanding over the whole top just to catch any remaining areas and let it dry? In the picture (and the one below) the center of the lamination running along the bookmatch that weren't reflecting light the same way as the rest of the body - after hitting it with the first wetsand, it really evened it out.

Lastly, assuming I don't do anything more during the oil phase, will the topcoats of gloss polyester "even out" the shimmer?

I'm fairly comfortable with my skills but as you can see this flaming bubinga is an absolute stunner and I want to do it justice!

Lonnybass

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r309/lonnybass/New%20bass%20build/IMG_0669.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r309/lonnybass/New%20bass%20build/IMG_0623.jpg

You have only sanded that to 150? I will leave it to the others that know far more than I do but I would guess you are going to want to go much finer than that.....t

Very nice Bubinga!

[QUOTE=tjclem;4640867]You have only sanded that to 150? I will leave it to the others that know far more than I do but I would guess you are going to want to go much finer than that.....t

No, I went up to wetsanding at #320 with regular sandpaper then switched over to a set of 3M "fine sanding" pads, which are labeled "fine 150 , extra fine 220," using their own grading system but are comparable to 600, 800, etc. on the normal scale. Slightly more bite than steel wool, but not by much.

Lonnybass

The progressive wetsanding appears to have worked masterfully!

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r309/lonnybass/New%20bass%20build/IMG_0680.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r309/lonnybass/New%20bass%20build/IMG_0679.jpg

Yup, that's the stuff.

That top looks reeeally good!!!

Beautiful Bubinga Top. How about pics from the back? :)

Check out my build with a Bubinga top! Thread is under Custom 5 for Rudy :)

Awesome!

Unfilled wood will look dull compared to filled wood even on the same board. Espesially figured wood. By progressive sanding you managed to fill the dull grain and bring it up to the level of the surrounding.

Love those gig bags :)

What's the brand ?

Oh, very nice top by the way ... :smug:

Larry and Paul-

Thank you both for your detailed explanations. I'm still torn between what, if anything, to do next. The surface appears to be quite smooth and free of rough patches, but I have noticed that certain areas that reflect as gloss are either directly on dark spots or light ones.

Do you think it makes sense to do a extra fine 150 wetsanding over the whole top just to catch any remaining areas and let it dry? In the picture (and the one below) the center of the lamination running along the bookmatch that weren't reflecting light the same way as the rest of the body - after hitting it with the first wetsand, it really evened it out.

Lastly, assuming I don't do anything more during the oil phase, will the topcoats of gloss polyester "even out" the shimmer?

I'm fairly comfortable with my skills but as you can see this flaming bubinga is an absolute stunner and I want to do it justice!

Lonnybass

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r309/lonnybass/New%20bass%20build/IMG_0669.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r309/lonnybass/New%20bass%20build/IMG_0623.jpg

Your danish oil prep is overkill if you're using a polyester topcoat. Polyester does a great job filling the pores and bringing out the grain on its own. Also polyester is very picky as to what it will bond to. Consider a polyurethane sealer coat or at least make sure the danish oil is very, very, very dry. A tie coat of super blonde shellac might work although I have not tried this, only polyester over polyurethane.

Your danish oil prep is overkill if you're using a polyester topcoat. Polyester does a great job filling the pores and bringing out the grain on its own. Also polyester is very picky as to what it will bond to. Consider a polyurethane sealer coat or at least make sure the danish oil is very, very, very dry. A tie coat of super blonde shellac might work although I have not tried this, only polyester over polyurethane.

That's right. All that work was unnecessary if you're planning a gloss polyurethane top coat. And poly doesn't bond that well to other surfaces. You could use a super blond shellac as a bonding coat. It's a dewaxed shellac and you'll have to buy the shellac flakes in bulk and dissolve it in shellac thinner. I haven't seen any dewaxed premixed except for one product out now-Zinsser Seal Coat which is a 2lb. cut pale blond completely dewaxed shellac. There are other Zinsser shellac products. Get only this one. You want a premixed, dewaxed shellac.

But you should be able to get an adequate bond between the danish oil and the poly by sanding.

Before applying the poly top coats, sand the finish very evenly with 400 grit no load paper used dry to give it some tooth for the poly to bond to. Wash it down with alcohol or naptha after to remove any of the sterates from the paper. It'll become duller after the sanding of course, but the gloss poly will fill in the sanding grooves and go back to gloss. If you're planning on rubbing out the poly top coat with progressively finer sanding and a polishing compound, give the poly a couple weeks in a warm room to harden completely.

U are soooo wrong.
That's actually an AAAAAAA Top...
Please pay more attention to these factors, we don't want to get people fooled, right?
;)




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