I am going to get a riser blaock for my Delta and I need to get a 105" blade. I was considering a timberwolf blade how wide should it be and how many teeth per inch? thanks

I don't have experience with timberwolf blades, but here's the information about the type of blade:

3 tpi, hook pattern
at least 1/2" wide, the wider your saw can take, the better. Tension it until the spring compresses entirely and don't use a flat resaw fence, it's better to use one of those pivot ones or cut it freehand on smaller saws that can tension the resaw blades completely and it wonders a lot. I still haven't got my resaw technique fully down, but I'm getting better with each cut. I'm doing freehand cuts now, and going very slowly.

I have used the Woodslicer blades from Highland Woodworking in Atlanta. Here's a link:

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=295

these will stay sharp long enough to get about 35 tops done, depending on your choice of hardwood being cut, and it leaves an incredibly clean face if your technique is good. several of the big name boutique builders use these, and I believe a couple chimed in to a thread I started on these about 18 months ago.

I have also used the Timberwolf blade. While it doesn't give as nice a cut as a sharp Woodslicer blade does, the blade will stay sharp longer ... so it's kind of a trade-off between the two.

Woodcraft carries the Tibmerwolf as a regular stock item, but I know of nobody outside of Highland Woodworking that carries the Woodslicer in stock.

all the best,

R

p.s. unlike Wilser, I do use a tall straight fence for my bookmatching activities. it is about 18" long and adjusted to compensate for the blade drift

Thanks guys.

"adjusted to compensate for the blade drift"

p.s. unlike Wilser, I do use a tall straight fence for my bookmatching activities. it is about 18" long and adjusted to compensate for the blade drift

I have used the highland stuff and it was great while sharp. I cut I think less than 10 tops on it (4 redwood, 2 zebrawood, 3 bubinga and a couple of necks) and then started to loose sharpness real fast. It did cut clean all the way till the end, but you had to go real slow.

I still have my high fence and I did build it with a little jiggy thing to adjust for blade drift. My problem was that as soon as the blade started to loose sharpness it would drift in different directions depending on the grain and figure of the wood being cut. Maybe a thicker carbide blade would behave better? But woodslicers are cheap enough. For the price of a single Lenox tri master I can get 5 woodslicers. I wonder if a tri master would last 5 times that of the woodslicer? Maybe Larry can chime in? If that's the case, it would save the headache of changing the blades and I would definitely put up the dough for one.

I have also been wanting to try those Laguna resaw king blades that you can resharpen. But dang, industrial resaw blades are expensive!

look for the Resawing Secrets section in this article on tuning up your bandsaw

http://www.americanfurnituredsgn.com/Band%20Saw%20Tune-up%20Dec%2003.htm

all the best,

R

The Timberwolf blades are decent. The folks will tell you what they recommend on the phone. I doubt any saw with a riser block should be fitted with anything over 1/2". Probable 3-4tpi, hook or skip.

My neighbor used to swear by Lennox. You can get those from Louis Iturra. He is a master of all bandsaws and he too could recommend a band.

I just ordered the riser kit. Thanks.

YouTube is always a good resource for things. Albeit not the best quality, but hey.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xg9JaAckK9o

Sorry but that video did nothing but confuse me and I have done a little resawing.......t

Lennox blades rule, if you have the $125 + for them, for learning and getting used to re-sawing, You might want to look at an Olson All Pro, or Woodcraft blade that will cost you less while you get your saw dialed in. Then look to the Timberwolf or better quality blades.

Lennox blades rule, if you have the $125 + for them, for learning and getting used to re-sawing, You might want to look at an Olson All Pro, or Woodcraft blade that will cost you less while you get your saw dialed in. Then look to the Timberwolf or better quality blades.

+1 for the Lennox Tri-Master Carbide. Put it on and leave it there for years. It is a little thicker kerf, and you will only cry once.

+1 for the Lennox Tri-Master Carbide. Put it on and leave it there for years. It is a little thicker kerf, and you will only cry once.


I had a Tri Master on my former Powermatic Re-saw, lasted me about 5 months, before re-sharpening.

Lenox and the blades from Laguna both rock.

The motor on it now is 3/4 hp. I have a good 5 year old 1.5hp motor from a joiner that is shot. How can I tell if I can install that on the band saw?

The motor on it now is 3/4 hp. I have a good 5 year old 1.5hp motor from a joiner that is shot. How can I tell if I can install that on the band saw?

See if both are the same speed and the same shaft size. You can always modify the mount and get a new pulley.

See if both are the same speed and the same shaft size. You can always modify the mount and get a new pulley.
They are both the same speed. I will have to check the shaft size..t