EDIT: pics of the actual bass are on page 3 (scroll down halfway)

Hi everyone,

I'm in the process of building my 6 string and thought I'd share it with TB. I have never built before but I'm lucky that I have a professional woodworker to help me for free! Anyway, here are some pictures of the design. I've already glued the neck laminates and two dual-action truss rods (Hot Rods from stew mac) are coming tomorrow (airmailed in 2 days by DHL (very fast!!!).

http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/1790/bodyhl4.jpg

http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/4384/controlseqbe5.jpg

http://img164.imageshack.us/img164/8095/fullsu2.jpg

http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/5250/headstockvq7.jpg

http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/7176/neckcswb6.jpg

Here's the specification:

Maple and Bubinga 5 piece neck

Sapele stripes between neck and body wings (not pictured)

Flame Maple fretboard

Maple body

Dual truss rods

26 frets

Hipshot Ultralites

Hipshot A-style brass bridge

Delano quad-coil pickups

Glockenklang 3 band EQ with active / passive switch and mini-toggle switches for coil-switching

Neutrik locking jack socket etc.

Let me know what you guys think and I'll keep this thread updated.

Thanks,

James

Looks good on paper. Kind of a Warrior inspired body type, IMO. I like it. Keep us posted.

Yeah, it was inspired by Warrior basses, except the horns are less curvy. One of my favourite bassists is Adam Nitti and I liked the look of his signature bass (AN-6). Hopefully, the bass will fulfill its main aim, versatility.

James

Looks awesome! Very organized drawings...always a great thing, haha. I'd recommend just being very aware of your truss-rod placement. If you place them too far apart, you'll end up with trussrods hanging out the back when you shape the neck. You might want to consider putting them slightly closer together just to make sure you have room to shape the neck the way you want without carving away to metal. Keep us posted on progress!

-Josh

The sketches you drew look very nice. It looks like it'll be a beautiful bass. Definitely keep us posted.

Looks awesome! Very organized drawings...always a great thing, haha. I'd recommend just being very aware of your truss-rod placement. If you place them too far apart, you'll end up with trussrods hanging out the back when you shape the neck. You might want to consider putting them slightly closer together just to make sure you have room to shape the neck the way you want without carving away to metal. Keep us posted on progress!

-Josh

Yeah, I was thinking of putting them closer together. But is it OK to route into the inner laminates? The reason the drawings are organised is because at school, we have to do a portfolio with research/designs/specifications etc. Boring!

Thanks

Yeah, I was thinking of putting them closer together. But is it OK to route into the inner laminates?

Of course! As long as you make quality joints, then there's no problem.

Of course! As long as you make quality joints, then there's no problem.

OK, I'll bear that in mind. I would say my joints are of a high quality; the joins between the neck laminates are invisible. I used titebond for glue, it's great.

James

Wait...so you've already started??? Post some pics!!!

-Josh

Wait...so you've already started??? Post some pics!!!

-Josh

I will post pics but you'll have to wait until at least the 30th October because my project is at school and we are on half-term break! It's not that impressive, just the neck laminates glued together.

Now I have to take a camera into school, camera phones aren't allowed, damn!

I will post pics of truss rods tommorrow to let people know what they're like.

James

I will post pics but you'll have to wait until at least the 30th October because my project is at school and we are on half-term break! It's not that impressive, just the neck laminates glued together.

Now I have to take a camera into school, camera phones aren't allowed, damn!

I will post pics of truss rods tommorrow to let people know what they're like.

James

No, that just means you have to be sneakier with the camera phone. ;) Not that I'd ever do that . . . *walks away from his own thread, whistling inconspicuously*

You might want to do a detailed front or rear view, and a section view, of the cavity area, so you can take into account the roundovers, the wall thickness, the cavity cover overlap, and the size of the pots. Then you'll know whether your knobs are too close to the edge or not.

You might want to do a detailed front or rear view, and a section view, of the cavity area, so you can take into account the roundovers, the wall thickness, the cavity cover overlap, and the size of the pots. Then you'll know whether your knobs are too close to the edge or not.

They probably are too close to the edge, that's fine, the drawing was ideally just to get the dimensions of the body etc. I'll just move them up a touch when it comes to routing cavities (a long way off yet :))

James

The Hot Rods arrived today, here are some pics for those who are interested:

(by the way, I know the rods are installed vertically, I just couldn't get them to stand on edge ;))

http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/651/nutxf9.jpg

http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/4606/nut2wn8.jpg

http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/9108/lengthak1.jpg

I can't believe I have to wait so long until I can start work again! I'm getting withdrawal symptoms for wood :crying:

James

You're going to go right through the truss channels when you shape that neck.....They are too close to the outside edge. Make sure to take into account the carving, with two rods you aren't going to be able to have a very thin neck considering the dimensions of the hotrods.

Yay on the Delano Quad coils!. I have a pair of 'em in my 6 string BEE bass. They sound great with a BEE PRE. Glockenklang has a great sounding preamp too. The Bartolini is a nice preamp/ but a bit noisy if you boost the treble much. The BEE PRE & the Glockenklang are dead quiet (especially with quad coils). Those are my top pick. The only reason I mantioned is because I saw the ? beside the Bart pre on your specs.
Hope that helps.

Yay on the Delano Quad coils!. I have a pair of 'em in my 6 string BEE bass. They sound great with a BEE PRE. Glockenklang has a great sounding preamp too. The Bartolini is a nice preamp/ but a bit noisy if you boost the treble much. The BEE PRE & the Glockenklang are dead quiet (especially with quad coils). Those are my top pick. The only reason I mantioned is because I saw the ? beside the Bart pre on your specs.
Hope that helps.

Yeah Mr. Muckelroy, that helps but I know you love your Delano's :hyper:.

I've emailed Delano to check if all my wiring options are possible, I will post the reply when I get it.

So, do you think I should make the truss rods angle more towards the center of the neck? How thick does the back of the neck need to be?

James

You're going to go right through the truss channels when you shape that neck.....They are too close to the outside edge. Make sure to take into account the carving, with two rods you aren't going to be able to have a very thin neck considering the dimensions of the hotrods.

BUT I LOVE THIN NECKS!!!!!!!!!!!! :help: :crying: :bawl:

with those rods? at least 15mms.

with those rods? at least 15mms.

Crap. The truss rods are 11mm deep, the neck I drew is 16mm deep at the thinnest, is that OK? It's really only the neck towards the headstock end that is the problem, as the neck gets thicker towards the body (obviously).

James

If you take the "U" shape of a neck and find that it's 16mm deep that would be if the truss rod ran through the center. As you move out from the center it gets quite a bit thinner. Plus make sure you are taking into account the thickness of the fingerboard. I would go with a single truss rod, but that's just me. Rodent has a couple of great drawings to illustrate this kind of thing, but a search proved unhelpful, hopefully he can chime in.

If you take the "U" shape of a neck and find that it's 16mm deep that would be if the truss rod ran through the center. As you move out from the center it gets quite a bit thinner. Plus make sure you are taking into account the thickness of the fingerboard. I would go with a single truss rod, but that's just me. Rodent has a couple of great drawings to illustrate this kind of thing, but a search proved unhelpful, hopefully he can chime in.

To be honest, I don't want a single truss rod in a 6 string bass, it might end up like the Tacoma Narrows bridge disaster :D

If I included the thickness of the fingerboard, the neck would be about 21 mm thick.

How much wood do you recommend there be between the truss rod channel and the outside of the neck? I have no problem in making the neck a bit flatter anyway, I like wide flat necks, this would eliminate some of the "thinning" you are talking about right?

James

I'll try and work up a drawing when I get home..........I may be confusing the issue.

To be honest, I don't want a single truss rod in a 6 string bass, it might end up like the Tacoma Narrows bridge disaster :D

If I included the thickness of the fingerboard, the neck would be about 21 mm thick.

How much wood do you recommend there be between the truss rod channel and the outside of the neck? I have no problem in making the neck a bit flatter anyway, I like wide flat necks, this would eliminate some of the "thinning" you are talking about right?

James

Even if you flatten it out, It'll be uncomfortable (at least it would be for me) if you do so to make the taper less steep when you shape the back of the neck. You could use 1 truss rod in the middle and 2 square steel or graphite rods on either side of it, which will be much shallower than those hot rods. Otherwise, I'de have the truss rods right on top of the bubinga laminates at the nut. I recommend the steel rods.

To be honest, I don't want a single truss rod in a 6 string bass, it might end up like the Tacoma Narrows bridge disaster :D


Why? Adding a 2nd truss rod doesn't make the neck stronger- it actually technically makes it weaker because you have to route two big channels into it instead of one. That's offset by having to have a thicker profile, but still. Trusses don't actually add strength, they just add adjustability.

I'd vote for you to use 1 rod, as was stated by others. You'll never have a problem adjusting it, and you'll make life a lot easier for a first time build.

Why? Adding a 2nd truss rod doesn't make the neck stronger- it actually technically makes it weaker because you have to route two big channels into it instead of one. That's offset by having to have a thicker profile, but still. Trusses don't actually add strength, they just add adjustability.

I'd vote for you to use 1 rod, as was stated by others. You'll never have a problem adjusting it, and you'll make life a lot easier for a first time build.
Absolutely correct.
Another thing - why taper the neck thickness? There is only one benefit, namely weight distribution, and in this case the benefit is soooo small!
If you skip the thickness taper, you gain a mm or two at the top end.

Why? Adding a 2nd truss rod doesn't make the neck stronger- it actually technically makes it weaker because you have to route two big channels into it instead of one. That's offset by having to have a thicker profile, but still. Trusses don't actually add strength, they just add adjustability.

I'd vote for you to use 1 rod, as was stated by others. You'll never have a problem adjusting it, and you'll make life a lot easier for a first time build.

I never said two truss rods equated to more strength, it's obvious that it doesn't. All though you did hit upon the main reason for me wanting two truss rods, adjustability. I'm sorry to everyone, but I'm still going to use two truss rods :hiding: Don't hate me for it!!! :D

Having one truss rod isn't going to make my life any easier, I'm not going to be the one doing the routing! ;)

James

I'll try and work up a drawing when I get home..........I may be confusing the issue.

Please don't waste your time on me :) I know what you mean. All I wanted to know was how much wood you think there should be between the edge of the truss rod channel(s) and the outside of the neck???

James

I'm only on my 4th bass so I couldn't tell you. I've tried to leave close to a 1/4" on my necks..........hopefully someone can chime in on the minimum.

I know you won't be swayed, but why do you feel you need so much adjustability? With multiple lams you shouldn't need to adjust much or often.

Either way it's going to be a beautiful bass! Please share pictures of it's progress! Oh, and make sure you're having fun!

I never said two truss rods equated to more strength, it's obvious that it doesn't. All though you did hit upon the main reason for me wanting two truss rods, adjustability. I'm sorry to everyone, but I'm still going to use two truss rods :hiding: Don't hate me for it!!! :D

Having one truss rod isn't going to make my life any easier, I'm not going to be the one doing the routing! ;)

James

No hate here! I'm just worried that you aren't going to get those truss rods closer to the middle of the neck!

Seriously, if you opt to keep them further out and have to avoid carving away wood on the edges of the neck to compensate, it may make the neck feel very uncomfortable for you. Perhaps heavier too.

I did this on a very early experiment bass, and installed some truss bars along the taper of the neck, too close to the sides like your's are planned. I was very unhappy w/ the feel of the bulky neck they way it turned out, and I'm hoping better for your bass

I'm only on my 4th bass so I couldn't tell you. I've tried to leave close to a 1/4" on my necks..........hopefully someone can chime in on the minimum.

I know you won't be swayed, but why do you feel you need so much adjustability? With multiple lams you shouldn't need to adjust much or often.

Either way it's going to be a beautiful bass! Please share pictures of it's progress! Oh, and make sure you're having fun!

I'd just like to have the option to adjust and do it accurately whenever I want, now there shall be no more words on the subject :D :)

I will definitely share pics with you guys but as I said before those will have to wait.

James

No hate here! I'm just worried that you aren't going to get those truss rods closer to the middle of the neck!

Seriously, if you opt to keep them further out and have to avoid carving away wood on the edges of the neck to compensate, it may make the neck feel very uncomfortable for you. Perhaps heavier too.

I did this on a very early experiment bass, and installed some truss bars along the taper of the neck, too close to the sides like your's are planned. I was very unhappy w/ the feel of the bulky neck they way it turned out, and I'm hoping better for your bass

I've had a look at some 6 strings and decided I will definitely put the truss rods closer to the middle of the neck :)

Thanks for the advice people.

James

Hi,

I should have some pics up when I've routed the truss slots and tapered the neck. Should be end of next week (progress is slow when you make a bass in a school, I mean, you can't gauge how a neck profile will feel if you draw it using CAD, but I still have to do it :()

James

Stay strong James, I put 2 truss rods in my 6 strings and that's the way I like them.

Put the rods closer to the center. I make the shaft thickness of my necks (fingerboard not included of course) around 5/8" which leaves about 3/16" behind the rods at the thinnest part of the neck.

The fact of the matter is that the Hot Rod is a rather tall truss rod. It will limit you in terms of thinness but it is a decent rod that is not as prone to seizing as some others seem to be. Keep them away from the edges of the neck so you have room to shape. I like to line them up with laminates in the neck so I always know where they are when I am shaping.

Thanks for the tip FBB. As mentioned in my previous post, I have decided to move the truss rods closer to the center of the neck. They do have a slight taper also so they are not exactly under the inner laminates but they don't deviate far.

James

it's gonna turn out awesome! with the rods slightly in you'll be home free...........that was my only worry.......you had them just a little bit too far out........

I have a question,

I wanna install a Neutrik locking jack socket. What type do I need considering I'm having an active preamp and need the input to turn the battery supply on and off when you take it in and out???

James

TRS (stereo).

learn from my mistake! I put the trussrods too far out from the center and I paid dearly for it. I ended up carving through the neck and into my trussrods, but I will never make that mistake again...along with a bunch more.

Greg

I prefer a dual truss' on six and up.

Is this the jack:

http://www.samash.com/catalog/showitem.asp?SKU=NNJ3FP6CB&ovchn=FRO&ovcpn=FROOGLE&ovcrn=NNJ3FP6CB&ovtac=CMP

James

I used one of those on a bass. HATED IT! won't do it again. Let me expand a bit. The thing works fine, and it locks the jack in place, which I guess is a plus. The problem is that the little red tab you have to press in to release the jack is EXTREMELY stiff. You can't just use a finger to push it in with the same hand you're using to pull out the jack. In my case I had to push it in with my left hand while pulling with the right and I always ended up with a sore fingertip.

I used one of those on a bass. HATED IT! won't do it again. Let me expand a bit. The thing works fine, and it locks the jack in place, which I guess is a plus. The problem is that the little red tab you have to press in to release the jack is EXTREMELY stiff. You can't just use a finger to push it in with the same hand you're using to pull out the jack. In my case I had to push it in with my left hand while pulling with the right and I always ended up with a sore fingertip.

Maybe you just had a dodgy one (dodgy is a word) :)

James

Maybe you just had a dodgy one (dodgy is a word) :)

James

I'm sure it is a word. I guess I got 3 dodgy ones as the other two are also as stiff as the one I installed.

That's a question for a luthier. I have no idea. What luthiers have you consulted?

That's a question for a luthier. I have no idea. What luthiers have you consulted?

None but I've been told I need a TRS jack (stereo)

James

I put a locking jack on mine as well.........it's a pain, it's mostly a two hand operation to unplug your bass..........and really, in 17 years of gigging I only once unplugged myself while playing and that's because I was piss drunk and decided to walk off stage and dance with the crowd with a 15ft cord.........:bassist:

Maybe you just had a dodgy one (dodgy is a word) :)

James

Don't think so. I had one, with the same problem. Almost impossible to get it to release on me.

However, it did its job pretty well i guess. It locked so well i was afraid if i stepped on the cable, i would rip the entire jack out of the wood.

Never again. I'll stick to the standard "loop cable around strap" technique, which has allowed me never to unplug myself inadvertently.

I'm sure it is a word. I guess I got 3 dodgy ones as the other two are also as stiff as the one I installed.

Huh. The ones I've had on all the Dingwalls and on my fretted 8 string I've owned have been fine. They're oriented so that the thumb presses the red tab what you take the plug out and I never had to apply anything that I'd consider excessive pressure to remove the plug on any of the four basses. I've certainly never had to use both hands.

Did you have it oriented with the red tab toward the top or the bottom? With the tab on the top it was a breeze to press with the thumb to remove the plug. If it were on the bottom I would imagine it would be hard.

Did you have it oriented with the red tab toward the top or the bottom? With the tab on the top it was a breeze to press with the thumb to remove the plug. If it were on the bottom I would imagine it would be hard.Great question.

Huh. The ones I've had on all the Dingwalls and on my fretted 8 string I've owned have been fine. They're oriented so that the thumb presses the red tab what you take the plug out and I never had to apply anything that I'd consider excessive pressure to remove the plug on any of the four basses. I've certainly never had to use both hands.

Did you have it oriented with the red tab toward the top or the bottom? With the tab on the top it was a breeze to press with the thumb to remove the plug. If it were on the bottom I would imagine it would be hard.

I tried it both ways. I settled on the 2 handed method because it was less painful than the one handed method with the tab on top ...I guess you're a much stronger man than I am.

Anyway, how thick should the neck be at the nut? I've drawn it as 16mm but now I realize this is really thin (or is it?). I'm pretty sure the neck on my Spector is 16mm at the nut, but when I looked around for some neck measurements on the internet they all came in around 21mm. Am I missing something here? Bear in mind I like thin necks :)

James

Never again. I'll stick to the standard "loop cable around strap" technique, which has allowed me never to unplug myself inadvertently.Wireless systems avoid all these problems (but add some of their own).

Funny thing, I never liked these jacks either, for 2 reasons:

1: I tried one on a Dingwall, and found it nearly impossible
to remove the jack.

Actually, I had an entire batch of Neutrik TRS barrel jacks
(standard 1/2" OD deep-panel type) that had intermittent
contact, and had a bunch of recurrent tech-support issues
over the years as a result.

Since then, I switched to Switchcraft and have had no issue.

2: I always preferred pulling out the cord to breaking it.
If you step on a cord and it's locked into your bass, your 3 options (as far as I can see) are:

a) Fall over
b) Break the cord
c) Break the jack

If it's plugged into your amp and you walk too far away,
add to the above:

a) Unplug from the amp
b) tip over the amp

None of these is particularly desirable, and might even be a
bigger problem onstage than a momentary "unplugged moment".

Just loop over your back strap button, under the strap, no?
Always worked for me...

Cheers,
Martin

Anyway, how thick should the neck be at the nut? I've drawn it as 16mm but now I realize this is really thin (or is it?). I'm pretty sure the neck on my Spector is 16mm at the nut, but when I looked around for some neck measurements on the internet they all came in around 21mm. Am I missing something here? Bear in mind I like thin necks :)

James

Any ideas?

I'm cutting the neck this week so hurry!!! :D

James

OK pics will be up within the next 2 or 3 days. There are pics of the body and the neck (not yet glued together).

James

Hey, here are some pictures:

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/5764/bodyfulliv8.jpg

http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/6706/neckkh3.jpg

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/8216/upsidedownlc1.jpg

Unfortunately there's a bit of heartwood on the lower body wing and a lot on the back of the top wing (not pictured). It still looks OK though IMO.

EDIT: pictures are smaller and btw, how nice does sapele smell? It reminds me of Worcester sauce flavoured Walkers (Lays in US?) or aniseed! :)

James

Unfortunately there's a bit of heartwood on the lower body wing and a lot on the back of the top wing (not pictured). It still looks OK though IMO.
It looks like a bit of body contouring might get rid of the heartwood on the front.

No offense but the pics are way too big. That aside what you've done so far with the bass looks really nice.

Another picture of the body wings placed next to the neck so you can get an idea of the shape. Well, in the end, one of my mates is taking the pictures on his camera phone very sneakily :)

http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/2130/placedqg6.jpg

James

I'm sorry there hasn't been many posts in a while; 2 weeks of exams! Oh well. The truss rod channels have been routed and the neck taper cut. Also a rough thickness of the neck has been cut. The woodworker has to do everyone's work as we aren't allowed to use the bandsaw or router, so progress is very slow.

James

Looks like I'll just post pics when I've finished; I'm way too busy to take them at the moment. Neck is being shaped, headstock is cut out, and I've ordered the Ultralites and A style bridge.

James

OK, here are some pics:

(Ignore my hair :D)
http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/833/bodyiwevycx6.png

http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/118/backpy1.jpg

http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/5553/headstockreardu2.jpg

The neck to body sculpting may look off line because there is still some wood I need to cut off of the back of the bass.

http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/9062/sculptingom5.jpg

If you look at the pic below you will see a piece of maple glued to the right side of the neck. This is where I had to rebate the edge where the router went crazy :)

http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/2267/slotsfrontpt2.jpg

James

Looks good. I like the neck heel carve.

Is that a gap or an accent line between the neck shaft and the stringer in the last shot?

You can see them on the back, too.

Otherwise, looks nice!

Angus and pilotjones it's a gap because the body isn't actually glued on yet, it's just stuck on with double sided tape so I could get the sculpting right. Thanks for the comments!

James

Why wouldn't you glue first?!

Why wouldn't you glue first?!

Don't worry it's just stuck on so I could get the shaping right :) I'm going to rout the body cavities first before I stick on the wings.

James

When you glue up the body wings I'd like to see pics; I imagine it may be tricky getting even pressure against the odd(compared w/a square piece of wood- not a jab at your design :D)shapes of the horns,etc. Also possibly dodgy ;) will be the tendancy of the pieces to shift around(up/down & for/aft relative to the neck/center)as you apply clamping pressure. I'm recalling gluing the fingerboard onto an EUB neck; after ruining one, :bawl: on the neext attemp(still not done)I drove short brads into the neck face, ground the exposed ends to a point & then carefully dry-clamped the fingerboard in place. After that, the pins aligned the two pieces perfecty- no lateral/fore-aft slippage.
I'm interested in how you'll approach this potential issue.
Nice work!

When you glue up the body wings I'd like to see pics; I imagine it may be tricky getting even pressure against the odd(compared w/a square piece of wood- not a jab at your design :D)shapes of the horns,etc. Also possibly dodgy ;) will be the tendancy of the pieces to shift around(up/down & for/aft relative to the neck/center)as you apply clamping pressure. I'm recalling gluing the fingerboard onto an EUB neck; after ruining one, :bawl: on the neext attemp(still not done)I drove short brads into the neck face, ground the exposed ends to a point & then carefully dry-clamped the fingerboard in place. After that, the pins aligned the two pieces perfecty- no lateral/fore-aft slippage.
I'm interested in how you'll approach this potential issue.
Nice work!

To be honest, I'll probably just clamp the wings vertically and horizontally to stop them slipping around. When it comes to the fingerboard, I might do as you did or just cut the fingerboard a bit wider than it needs to be so if it slips it still covers the neck and all I have to do is trim around the edges.

I'll need some grain filler for the gap when I glue on the fingerboard; the face/edge (corner) of the neck is not quite level but it's no problem.

James