I know this question pops up every month or so, and I always forget which one is most popular, so which glue do you guys typically use?

If I understand correctly, most people have stated they prefer the Original Titebond (with the red label). My local store doesn't carry it (dammit), so on my recent builds I've been using a combination of the Titebond II (blue label) and also Gorilla glue with what seems satisfactory results.

I'd be curious about people's thoughts on Titebond 3 (green label)......I bought some but am hesitant to use it as it just doesn't 'look' right. It looks more like paste than glue.

I believe the traditional glue of choice is hide glue for acoustic makers. Some companies also offer their own blend/brand of glue specifically for luthier-types. Can't go wrong with that stuff I suppose.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Glues,_adhesives/Wood_glue.html

I use white wood glue (Bison I think) on things that may require removal later (like Fretboards etc) because it can be steamed off, and for more solid joints (like Neck lams) I use polyurethane glue. and it is indeed said that acoustic builders (and some solid body builders) use Hot Hide glue, not the instant liquid Hide (nowhere near as strong!)

I've grown very fond of Titebond II Dark, especially for neck lams and wing attachments. Especially since it's usually a dark and a light piece going together.
Dirk

I used Titebond III (green label) when my son snapped the neck on my uke. 12 hours later, that sucker is on there but good. :)

Did u asked ur son how the glue tastes? :D kidding

So... really there is no general consensus on which glue is best.

Well I see 3 votes for titebond. :)
Dirk

I use "it all" - different glues for different purposes.

* PVA/AR (Polyvinyl Acetate or Aliphatic Resin) - This is the "all purpose", general-use glue that I use most of the time. Titebond II is good, but LMI's "Instrument Maker's White Glue" is better. I could probably get away with using only this if I had to.

* Polyurethane - Most common is Gorilla Glue, but Titebond (and others) make their own and it's like half the price. Messy due to foaming expansion, and not good if you ever want to disassemble, but it's still useful. I use it for laminating multipiece necks and solid bodys.

* Hide Glue - lots of advantages (most of the hype is true), but a bit trickier to work with than some modern alternatives. I use it on all repair work of vintage/older acoustic instruments. I also use it when time (and my own attitude) allows on new builds of acoustic instruments. Don't really use it on solidbody instruments a whole lot.
NOTE: check out Frank Ford's website for tons of great tips/info on use of hide glue.

* Epoxy - I use a few different types: StewMac's fast and slow setting products, as well as Smith "All Wood Glue". I'll use it in the same places I would the polyurethanes, but also inlays, shell purflings, some repair, and fill-ins (mixed with wood dust). The Smith glue is also especially good any time I'm dealing with oily woods (which can be troublesome to glue with PVA/AR). I sometimes glue fingerboards with this as well.

* Cyano-Acrylate - "Super glue". Ahh, couldn't live without this stuff. I've been really happy with the "Hot Stuff" products, as well as the offerings from StewMac. TONS of little uses, mostly in the realm of repair and quick fixes, but not all. I've experimented (and been happy with) a newer method of gluing binding using CA's. It's perfect for chip repair, drop-fills, and other little fill ins. I use it all the time making jigs and such. I've saved some sides from splitting if I catch them just starting to crack when bending (acoustics). Different thicknesses for different uses. Accelerator used sparingly.

* "Binding Cement" - IPS Weld On #16. Used for only one thing - gluing plastic/celluloid/ivoroid bindings. Best stuff for that purpose.

* 3M Spray Adhesive - used for gluing on pickguards sometimes. Also handy for jigs/fixtures.

* Rubber Cement - yes, you read right. One little use is when an instrument has a bolt on neck along with a thin fingerboard extension. I sometimes put a little layer of this "contact" cement under the extension. This keeps it from possibly rattling or buzzing but comes apart easily if I take the neck off. Also good for gluing sandpaper to sanding blocks.

The thing is, you need to think "what does this particular glue joint NEED?". What is being glued together (wood or plastic or metal? species? etc.)? Is "creeping" a concern? Does the joint need any filling? Do I have to think about how it will take finish or sanding? Will I ever need to disassemble the joint? Is it important to introduce as little moisture to the joint as possible? Do I need to allow for expansion or shrinking? What conditions will this instrument be subjected to? Do I need more or less setup time? etc. etc.
The answers to these questions will lead to your choice of glue for a particular job.

All that said, if you want to keep it simple and use only one, then go with Titebond II or LMI's "Instrument Maker's"

I use "it all" - different glues for different purposes.

* PVA/AR (Polyvinyl Acetate or Aliphatic Resin) - This is the "all purpose", general-use glue that I use most of the time. Titebond II is good, but LMI's "Instrument Maker's White Glue" is better. I could probably get away with using only this if I had to.

* Polyurethane - Most common is Gorilla Glue, but Titebond (and others) make their own and it's like half the price. Messy due to foaming expansion, and not good if you ever want to disassemble, but it's still useful. I use it for laminating multipiece necks and solid bodys.

* Hide Glue - lots of advantages (most of the hype is true), but a bit trickier to work with than some modern alternatives. I use it on all repair work of vintage/older acoustic instruments. I also use it when time (and my own attitude) allows on new builds of acoustic instruments. Don't really use it on solidbody instruments a whole lot.
NOTE: check out Frank Ford's website for tons of great tips/info on use of hide glue.

* Epoxy - I use a few different types: StewMac's fast and slow setting products, as well as Smith "All Wood Glue". I'll use it in the same places I would the polyurethanes, but also inlays, shell purflings, some repair, and fill-ins (mixed with wood dust). The Smith glue is also especially good any time I'm dealing with oily woods (which can be troublesome to glue with PVA/AR). I sometimes glue fingerboards with this as well.

* Cyano-Acrylate - "Super glue". Ahh, couldn't live without this stuff. I've been really happy with the "Hot Stuff" products, as well as the offerings from StewMac. TONS of little uses, mostly in the realm of repair and quick fixes, but not all. I've experimented (and been happy with) a newer method of gluing binding using CA's. It's perfect for chip repair, drop-fills, and other little fill ins. I use it all the time making jigs and such. I've saved some sides from splitting if I catch them just starting to crack when bending (acoustics). Different thicknesses for different uses. Accelerator used sparingly.

* "Binding Cement" - IPS Weld On #16. Used for only one thing - gluing plastic/celluloid/ivoroid bindings. Best stuff for that purpose.

* 3M Spray Adhesive - used for gluing on pickguards sometimes. Also handy for jigs/fixtures.

* Rubber Cement - yes, you read right. One little use is when an instrument has a bolt on neck along with a thin fingerboard extension. I sometimes put a little layer of this "contact" cement under the extension. This keeps it from possibly rattling or buzzing but comes apart easily if I take the neck off. Also good for gluing sandpaper to sanding blocks.

The thing is, you need to think "what does this particular glue joint NEED?". What is being glued together (wood or plastic or metal? species? etc.)? Is "creeping" a concern? Does the joint need any filling? Do I have to think about how it will take finish or sanding? Will I ever need to disassemble the joint? Is it important to introduce as little moisture to the joint as possible? Do I need to allow for expansion or shrinking? What conditions will this instrument be subjected to? Do I need more or less setup time? etc. etc.
The answers to these questions will lead to your choice of glue for a particular job.

All that said, if you want to keep it simple and use only one, then go with Titebond II or LMI's "Instrument Maker's"

Lots of great info there! I'de just like to say whenever dealing w/ anything oily and dense like cocobolo, bocote, bloodwood, etc, and also w/ hardwoods like hickory, and super dence: Ebony, ipe, brazilian bloodwood katalox, ect. Use Gorilla Glue! Not other pu glues, like the crappy one titebond makes, Gorilla glue!

BTW, yes I know titebond makes superior Aliphatic Resin glues, just louzy pu glue!

My friends uncle showed us how he glue two pieces (equal) of wood boards with PVA, then he hit that board very very badly, and it cracked far near the glue joint.I was "daaamn omfg" :D

Use Gorilla Glue! Not other pu glues, like the crappy one titebond makes, Gorilla glue!

BTW, yes I know titebond makes superior Aliphatic Resin glues, just louzy pu glue!

What problems have you had with the Titebond PU? I've honestly never had any issues at all with it. In doing glue-ups, in testing, and in real-world practical applications, it has performed pretty much exactly like Gorilla. In fact, in one way (besides the better price), I prefer the Titebond - Gorilla Glue has a tendency to skin up in the bottle which leads to waste (expensive waste) - Titebond PU doesn't.