So I bought this 'project' Jazz bass a couple weeks ago that was needing a neck plate & screws. Last night I finally tried to secure the neck only to find that the holes in the neck are stripped out.

My woodworker gene tells me to drill out the stripped holes, glue in some maple doweling, redrill and secure the neck. Is that the proper way to approach this or is there a better/smarter method to fix this?

Thanks in advance. All advice is appreciated.

Better than dowelling is to cut some long grain pellets/plugs using a suitable plug cutter & glue them in. Using dowels mean that you screw into end-grain, which can work loose. With plugs you're screwing with the grain & there's next to no chance that they'll give.

Pete.

if you have a drill press, this is a good opportunity to install steel threaded inserts. a search in this forum should turn up several hits on this topic

all the best,

R

If you flood the holes with water-thin Super Glue, it will usually swell the sides of the hole enough to get a good grip on the screw threads. As a bonus, the area will be hardened once the adhesive cures. This has worked well for me in the past, and is worth a shot before you undertake any woodworking operations.

if you have a drill press, this is a good opportunity to install steel threaded inserts. a search in this forum should turn up several hits on this topic

all the best,

R

+1!

I decided to go with the threaded inserts. They arrived from McMaster-Carr today. Progress report in a few days...

if you have a drill press, this is a good opportunity to install steel threaded inserts. a search in this forum should turn up several hits on this topic

all the best,

R
+2 It might also help with potential dead spots.

Well, that was easy enough!

Tips that I'd like to pass along:

Use a drill press vise to hold the neck. It's a $20 investment at your local big box hardware store;
Buy extra inserts and try a couple on a scrap piece of wood. That way you can find out what the trouble spots are without ruining your neck. I found out that installing the inserts freehand could cause alignment problems with the insert and tear the surface wood until the insert threads 'bit in'.
Spend a couple bucks and buy an extra bit to screw the insert into the wood. The inserts I used (from McMaster-Carr) take a 5mm hex wrench. By doing a couple trials in scrap I realized that a) I wanted to apply pressure to the screw during insertion; and b) I wanted to use the drill press to ensure straight alignment when I installed the insert. So, I sacrificed a hex wrench, chucked it into the drill press, and used the press to align the insert and apply pressure while I manually twisted the chuck to screw the insert into the neck (don't even think of using the drill press motor to drive the insert in!)

I took my time (dragged my butt actually) but the actual installation took maybe 10 minutes.
Putting the neck on and screwing it down tight was really satisfying...

Well, that was easy enough!

Tips that I'd like to pass along:

Use a drill press vise to hold the neck. It's a $20 investment at your local big box hardware store;
Buy extra inserts and try a couple on a scrap piece of wood. That way you can find out what the trouble spots are without ruining your neck. I found out that installing the inserts freehand could cause alignment problems with the insert and tear the surface wood until the insert threads 'bit in'.
Spend a couple bucks and buy an extra bit to screw the insert into the wood. The inserts I used (from McMaster-Carr) take a 5mm hex wrench. By doing a couple trials in scrap I realized that a) I wanted to apply pressure to the screw during insertion; and b) I wanted to use the drill press to ensure straight alignment when I installed the insert. So, I sacrificed a hex wrench, chucked it into the drill press, and used the press to align the insert and apply pressure while I manually twisted the chuck to screw the insert into the neck (don't even think of using the drill press motor to drive the insert in!)

I took my time (dragged my butt actually) but the actual installation took maybe 10 minutes.
Putting the neck on and screwing it down tight was really satisfying...
Sounds like you had fun... fixed the problem and learned a thing or two... but to be honest I can't make heads or tails of what you actually did :confused: "sacrificed a hex wrench"? And also, what is a "big box" hardware store? We only have 'hardware stores' here in Socal.. like Lowes and Home depot.. And then this too: "buy an extra bit to screw the insert into the wood.." Why? What kind of "bit"?

I give up trying to figure this out.. I'm just glad it worked out good and the neck will snug up to the body cavity now. :D

I sacrificed a hex wrench (or maybe you know them as Allen keys) by grinding the short leg off it. Then I was able to secure the remaining piece in the drill press chuck.

A "big box" store is one of those giant warehouse stores that displaced the smaller stores and are usually staffed with entry level people. Lowe's, Home Depot, Best Buy and Guitar Center are all fine examples of big box stores...

OK, 'bit' was a misleading word, I should have referred to the hex wrench again... but you may be buying the kind of insert that uses a slotted screwdriver...

BTW I'm in Socal too (Chula Vista, San Diego County. Got a light?:eek:).

If you're really interested I can take some photos to show you the process (on a scrap piece of wood, the neck's already installed on a body).

I went to the McMaster-Carr website and found threaded inserts, would you mind posting the size inserts you used? Thanks.

I used hardened steel insterts from Fasten-All (who re-sells fasteners to large industry, and will not expose the original manufacturer) with these specs:

10-24 inside threads
9/32" pilot hole

I can verify these are not made by Ez-loc, as the pilot hole and insert body diameter dimensions do not match anything in their listed inventory. I also have sample inserts from Ez-loc, and they are significantly different. All of the inserts I have seen from McMaster are for the larger Ez-loc design ... something OK for a 5-string neck, but too large for utilizing on a 4-string neck or guitar IMO

Here's what I have for reference information (on the package label from my Fasten-All order):

10176-06616
10-24x12mm IB INS
Ctrl# erwa22804
Vendor #: 130441

in quantities of 200, you should expect to pay under $2.50 for each insert when shipping is factored in. obviously quantities of smaller amounts will be more expensive

all the best,

R

Well, that was easy enough!

Tips that I'd like to pass along:

Use a drill press vise to hold the neck. It's a $20 investment at your local big box hardware store;
Buy extra inserts and try a couple on a scrap piece of wood. That way you can find out what the trouble spots are without ruining your neck. I found out that installing the inserts freehand could cause alignment problems with the insert and tear the surface wood until the insert threads 'bit in'.
Spend a couple bucks and buy an extra bit to screw the insert into the wood. The inserts I used (from McMaster-Carr) take a 5mm hex wrench. By doing a couple trials in scrap I realized that a) I wanted to apply pressure to the screw during insertion; and b) I wanted to use the drill press to ensure straight alignment when I installed the insert. So, I sacrificed a hex wrench, chucked it into the drill press, and used the press to align the insert and apply pressure while I manually twisted the chuck to screw the insert into the neck (don't even think of using the drill press motor to drive the insert in!)

I took my time (dragged my butt actually) but the actual installation took maybe 10 minutes.
Putting the neck on and screwing it down tight was really satisfying...

Finally, someone talking my language !!! By trade, I am an Automotive engine building machinist, and for a hobby, I work on wood boats. This project sounded to me like what we do in the boat world, called refastening, where we use slightly larger screws, with Resoursanel or epoxy. But the fix you did was great, and should work just fine. I have done the same with thin cast blocks like Ford 8BNA flatties, and some aluminum Marine applications...

Good luck, and let us know how it holds up for you...

TDY :)

Well, that was easy enough!

Tips that I'd like to pass along:

Use a drill press vise to hold the neck. It's a $20 investment at your local big box hardware store;
Buy extra inserts and try a couple on a scrap piece of wood. That way you can find out what the trouble spots are without ruining your neck. I found out that installing the inserts freehand could cause alignment problems with the insert and tear the surface wood until the insert threads 'bit in'.
Spend a couple bucks and buy an extra bit to screw the insert into the wood. The inserts I used (from McMaster-Carr) take a 5mm hex wrench. By doing a couple trials in scrap I realized that a) I wanted to apply pressure to the screw during insertion; and b) I wanted to use the drill press to ensure straight alignment when I installed the insert. So, I sacrificed a hex wrench, chucked it into the drill press, and used the press to align the insert and apply pressure while I manually twisted the chuck to screw the insert into the neck (don't even think of using the drill press motor to drive the insert in!)

I took my time (dragged my butt actually) but the actual installation took maybe 10 minutes.
Putting the neck on and screwing it down tight was really satisfying...

Same method I've used which I got from an article in Fine Woodworking magazine

The "bit" you use will depend on what the insert needs and doing a test with an extra insert or two is a good idea

I used a scrap piece of maple that approximated the maple in the bass neck

You want to make sure the pilot hole is the right size as too small a hole and forcing the insert in could split the neck

Hey Rodent...do you mean "Fastenal"? They've got a pretty big website and sound like the same sort of business you describe. Can you give more detail about what you ordered? I'm having trouble finding the exact product you ordered on their web page.

Here's one set I found...think this would do the job?

10-24x13mm Flush Die Cast Zinc insert for soft wood


Length: 13mm
Material: die cast zinc alloy
Style: knife edge - hex drive - flush
Type: threaded insert
Application: soft wood
Internal thread size: #10-24
Thread type: coarse
Tap drill size: 7mm

These are $6.18 for a 25-pack.

There's a set of brass ones that look a little bit nicer, but they're $18 for a 10-pack.

I guess what I'd like to know is what sort of length do we need to look for, what internal thread size, and what tap drill size?

what you are looking for is 10-24 x 12mm IB INS steel inserts. I have been told that the other info on my packaging is coded specific for the location where I bought it, so unless you're working with the Everett, WA store it is cryptic info that other locations cannot decypher

Fastenal is indeed be the name - my bad

all the best,

R

Yeah, then as far as I can tell, you can't get those any more. I can't find them on the web site, anyway. :(

correct - they are not a standard Fastenal stock item as I placed a custom order for them. the manufacturer they order from carries these as stock in their catalog, and Fastenal would not disclose who it was they arodered these from.

I have been assured by the folks at the office I ordered thru that these are available for custom order anytime I want to place another order. maybe if you called the Everett branch they'd order for you

all the best,

R

Many of the inserts available are made from soft materials like brass and even pot metal. I have not seen the ones with hex ends, just slots for a straight screw driver. These are very frustrating to install since the metal bends and distorts under the torque required to install.

What I have done to solve these problems is make a little tool out of a machine screw and two nuts. Install the two nuts on the machine screw so that they lock each other in place exposing just a little less than the length of your threaded insert. Cut the head off and chuck it up in a variable speed drill (or your drill press if you prefer) Thread the insert on to the tool until it contacts the nuts and install. When done simply reverse direction and the insert should remain in the body while the tool backs out. If the insert doesn't want to stay, just put a little CA in the threads and do it again waiting a short while for the glue to bond.

I have to reiterate the importance of drilling a pilot hole that matches the diameter of the shaft of the insert. You only want the threads to have purchase on the wood. There is no benefit to having the shaft of the insert larger than the hole it will fit in to and the additional friction can be frustrating to deal with.

Greg N

Aha! Think I tracked some down online.

http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/3604-STS/10-24-Steel-Threaded-Inserts

those look to be the closest insert yet to what I obtained thru Fastenal. since they have a 15/32" pilot hole, be certain you don't get too close to the neck edge when installing on a 4-string or regular guitar.

one of the beauties of the inserts I obtained from Fastenal is their 9/32" pilot hole. it's a real benefit when installing on narrower necks

all the best,

R

Hey, Rodent...are these more like the ones you got?

http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/3604-SRT/10-24-Stainless-Steel-Threaded-Inserts

Those others I psted above...well, I just don't know about them. The threads on the outside are huge, and really chew up the wood I tried putting them in as a trial run. I'd hate to try them on a $350 neck and wreck it.