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VIEW FULL LIVE VERSION : Have you ever done something really stupid, but thought that ... won't happen to you?


photoshopgeek
01-04-2008, 06:14 PM
I need some opinions.... First though, I guess I must tell you what happened. I am on my first build and am pretty excited about it. It's a neck-thru and I have got the body pretty much done except routing the cavity.

Here is my error... I usually leave what I have done of my bass at my apt. Here recently I have been taking it to work and my parents house to "show it off"... I know... I'm a noob... lol Weeellll.... today, I took it to work and my top spalted maple laminate on one of the halves developed small crack about halfway down.

What should I do about it? It's not too bad, but bad enough that I need to do something about it.

I did think of one possible solution... I have a couple small scraps of the spalted maple, and since I'm just doing a natural finish I was thinking of making some really fine saw dust, mixing it with some glue, and filling the crack with it.

Think it would work?

eleonn
01-04-2008, 06:23 PM
I think so but I'm sure much more experimented people here will give their opinions.

Rodent
01-04-2008, 07:07 PM
sawdust + wood glue = HIGHLY visible repair

depending on the crack size, you could fill it with superglue (recommended), tinted epoxy (recommended), or you could use epoxy mixed with sanding dust (OK, but you will get small air bubbles in the epoxy)


more important than filling the crack .... you need to determine why this is cracking! did you use wet wood (i.e. wood with a moisture content above 10%) by chance?

all the best,

R

erikbojerik
01-04-2008, 07:37 PM
If it's along a spalt seam, CA should work just fine.

photoshopgeek
01-04-2008, 08:03 PM
I really think it was just taking it back and forth between places... Changes in humidity, I really like it warm when I drive, just being careless...

Wouldn't superglue show up really bad? It wouldn't match the wood at all. And it's not a spalt seam unfortunately. It's all clear wood.

T2W
01-05-2008, 06:31 AM
This might just be a crazy idea, but what about turning the crack into a spalt seam... looking at my spalted maple bass, I figure if a crack should appear, I would probably fill it in with walnut dust or something. depending on how much its spalted and how big the crack is, obviously.

tjclem
01-05-2008, 06:55 AM
Some good photos of the area might help people help you...t

pilotjones
01-05-2008, 07:06 AM
This might just be a crazy idea, but what about turning the crack into a spalt seam... looking at my spalted maple bass, I figure if a crack should appear, I would probably fill it in with walnut dust or something. depending on how much its spalted and how big the crack is, obviously.I was thinking along the same lines. Depending on the actual piece of wood, if it were a thin crack, you might be able to widen it out a little by inserting an xacto blade and tilting it, on alternate sides of the crack, semi-randomly to make the crack "wiggly" looking. Then fill in with anything black.

Of course, I'd do any repair after everything is completely stabilized, otherwise you could be adding a new stress that will erupt in a problem somewhere else.

Rodent
01-05-2008, 09:31 AM
I really think it was just taking it back and forth between places... Changes in humidity, I really like it warm when I drive, just being careless...

I'll ask again ... did you use wet wood (i.e. wood with a moisture content above 10%) by chance? if your wood was properly dried, I would not expect it to behave like this unless something else also happened that has not been reported here

Wouldn't superglue show up really bad? It wouldn't match the wood at all. And it's not a spalt seam unfortunately. It's all clear wood.

superglue is clear, and is used by many woodworkes to fill imperfections in wood. I use a significant amount of it when working with burl Maple - there's a load of little pin holes that need to be filled prior to applying the sanding sealer (which would make these standout as white spots)

all the best,

R

photoshopgeek
01-05-2008, 09:36 AM
That's not a bad idea about the black. And I am leaving it at home from now on. No taking it out til it has finish on it.

Here's some pics. Like you can see, it's not horrible, but definitely need to do something about it. I did a quick photoshop to show it filled with black.


http://www.image4you.org/images/39609359.jpg (http://www.image4you.org/v.php?img=39609359.jpg)
http://www.image4you.org/images/38974263.jpg (http://www.image4you.org/v.php?img=38974263.jpg)

photoshopgeek
01-05-2008, 09:39 AM
No, Rodent, the moisture was at 6 or 7 percent when I laminated it. Checked it right before. It's been about two months since I've done anything to it except some shaping, so I think if it was that it would have happened by now.

btw, thanks for all the comments, everyone. :)

Justin Tuskey
01-05-2008, 09:55 AM
I guess I am just blind....but I seriously stared at those pics for 10 minutes, and could not find the crack.... haha help!

EDIT: ok I think I found it, kinda in the middle, long thin crack. Its not really noticable and when filled in with black it blends right in :)

photoshopgeek
01-05-2008, 10:04 AM
Yeah, you can see it better looking at the real thing. It really isn't that bad though.

photoshopgeek
01-05-2008, 10:15 AM
Here's a highlighted pic.

http://www.image4you.org/images/39447236.jpg (http://www.image4you.org/v.php?img=39447236.jpg)

JSPguitars
01-05-2008, 11:47 AM
LOL, I stared for 10 minutes and couldn't see anything either.
Something tinted black, like CA or Epoxy should do just fine. It seems pretty thin, so I'd just go with black CA glue, and like people said, it'll blend in just fine.
IN fact, you might like it even better.
Great looking spalt, BTW.....make sure to post pics of the finished product!

photoshopgeek
01-05-2008, 02:20 PM
Yeah, I guess I'll try that when I get to the finish stage.

I love the spalt too. Here's some pics of what I have so far.

http://www.image4you.org/images/43006347.jpg (http://www.image4you.org/v.php?img=43006347.jpg)
http://www.image4you.org/images/15489739.jpg (http://www.image4you.org/v.php?img=15489739.jpg)
http://www.image4you.org/images/86144188.jpg (http://www.image4you.org/v.php?img=86144188.jpg)

DavidRavenMoon
01-05-2008, 03:33 PM
I can't even see it!

I did a bass with a zebrawood top, and after it was glued on the body, it developed a crack from the butt end up to the bridge pickup. It was right where the top was book matched. I widened the crack, took a thin sliver of zebrawood and glued it in. You can't see it if I don't point it out.

That's not counting the worm holes! Wood has defects... just embrace them. My morado topped fretless has a few big worm holes. I just filled them in with black epoxy.

Spalted wood is so full of defects anyway, I'd just fill it with black epoxy.

Jonsbasses
01-05-2008, 04:52 PM
My vote goes towards black epoxy. It'll go well with the spalt.

Eaglewolf1626
01-05-2008, 05:05 PM
The crack looks small enough, that, you can just go on and finish it however you were gonna do it, just watch the crack to make sure it doesn't do anything else (wow, I'm being Mr. State the Obvious tonight).

T2W
01-05-2008, 07:41 PM
I built a small table with spalted maple, the same wood as my bass, it was at about 10% when I glued it together and 4 months later it started cracking, now the crack is about 3/16 wide at the middle and runs throughout the whole length of the table, theres also another crack but its smaller. All this wood is from a maple tree I cut a while ago, I guess ill bring the table in the woods and burn it near the tree stump and give it back to nature. wow. deep.