New project!

Fretless 4 with Model KSC shape

* 4 string
* Model KSC shape
* Through body bloodwood neck
* 31" scale
* fretless unlined stabilized (Gallery Hardwoods) curly purpleheart fingerboard
* 2" thick chambered hard ash body
* curly maple top
* Bill Lawrence humbucking pickup
* Audere 3 band Zmode pre
* Multilayer hand carved transition block
* multilayer headstock laminations
* Brass nut
* Hipshot gold hardware (ultralites and triple lockdown bridge)

Here's a rough sketch I made to help visualize the woods:

http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/2811/lutherpennsketchge6.jpg

Should be sweet!

Awesome!

very interesting, should sound beastly

On reading , that a bill lawrence pickup going to be used, I have a question.
How would you describe them , in terms of a"typical" character?

On reading , that a bill lawrence pickup going to be used, I have a question.
How would you describe them , in terms of a"typical" character?

It's the first time I'm using one of these. But from the files Luther has sent me of his current bass (which is using one of these same pickups) it should be KILLER! Here's Luther playing his current bass, you can get an idea of the sound AND HIS KILLER CHOPS!:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UwSQF532dB8

wow...amazing playing, amazing tone, needs more mid hump :p that should be cured after this bass :D

Very cool that you're using the BL pup. They're very reasonable in price, but my perception is that they're not popular, so they're normally not an option for "high-end custom" builds--unless your customer asks for it!

If (or rather, when) this sounds good in the end it could help "legitimatize" the pups. But then he might raise his prices.

Wilser, what do you think the tone difference between an acrylized curly purpleheart fingerboard and a non figured acrylized purpleheart fingerboard might be?

Wilser, what do you think the tone difference between an acrylized curly purpleheart fingerboard and a non figured acrylized purpleheart fingerboard might be?

hmm, interesting question. I would say there is about a 36.7523% increase in mid-hump® in the acrylized curly purpleheart version versus regular purpleheart. Of course, if you use curly purpleheart (non-Larrytized) it would only be about a 12.34% (give or take a 1/10th percent). If on the other hand you were to use acrylized non-figured purpleheart then the increase would be in the neighborhood of 22.7893%. So to answer your question specifically the increase is about 13.963%. As you can see, I chose (rather Luther chose) the best combination for maximum mid-hump®.

If any of this is unclear, feel free to ask away! I know mid-hump®ology can be confusing under certain conditions. :D

Ah. I was wondering about. Thanks for the clarification. But, what if you had an acrylized splinter at the 12th fret of a non-acrylized curly purple heart board, would this result in a mid-dip of around 0.003652%?

hmm, interesting question. I would say there is about a 36.7523% increase in mid-hump® in the acrylized curly purpleheart version versus regular purpleheart. Of course, if you use curly purpleheart (non-Larrytized) it would only be about a 12.34% (give or take a 1/10th percent). If on the other hand you were to use acrylized non-figured purpleheart then the increase would be in the neighborhood of 22.7893%. So to answer your question specifically the increase is about 13.963%. As you can see, I chose (rather Luther chose) the best combination for maximum mid-hump®.

If any of this is unclear, feel free to ask away! I know mid-hump®ology can be confusing under certain conditions. :D
I hereby declare wilser "Professor Von Hump."

I laughed out loud, and my co-workers all looked at me funny... heh.

Wilser, you get me everytime.

with all the repeated mid-humping Wilser has been doing in this forum, do we need the Mod to set some kind of content filter here?

since he's a ® mid-humper ... should he start to stud out his services for a fee?

:hiding:

all the best,

R

with all the repeated mid-humping Wilser has been doing in this forum, do we need the Mod to set some kind of content filter here?


A band pass content filter should get rid of that mid humping problem :rolleyes:

Edit: Bandpass??? Im an idiot, it would only serve to accentuate this mid humping. Make that a band-stop filter

hmm, interesting question. I would say there is about a 36.7523% increase in mid-hump® in the acrylized curly purpleheart version versus regular purpleheart. Of course, if you use curly purpleheart (non-Larrytized) it would only be about a 12.34% (give or take a 1/10th percent). If on the other hand you were to use acrylized non-figured purpleheart then the increase would be in the neighborhood of 22.7893%. So to answer your question specifically the increase is about 13.963%. As you can see, I chose (rather Luther chose) the best combination for maximum mid-hump®.

If any of this is unclear, feel free to ask away! I know mid-hump®ology can be confusing under certain conditions. :D


Having used an acrylic flamed purpleheart board on a fretless I have to tell you your figures are way off. After extensive testing against an identical bass other than the fretboard. (For those of you that don't know I make 3 versions of every bass I get an order for but introduce subtle variations in to each one for test purposes.) Fortunately Larry is able to supply me with consecutive cuts from the same boards in order to keep the test as accurate as possible. After the customers bass is on the way to them I burn the other 2 because every bass I build is a one off so this is the only way I can ethically work. Any way after extensive testing in my purpose built full floating anechoic chamber I can tell you that your figures are wildly inaccurate. The actual increase in mid hump resonance ©® is 36.7536 % over the non acrylic board I find it difficult to believe that a respected builder like yourself would wish to associate themselves with such shoddy figures. However this anomaly could be explained by my insistence that Larry use a modified monomer in the process. I like the long chain monomers to be two atoms shorter than his normal monomer Larry is such a consummate professional that he cuts of the surplus atoms with his trusty pocket knife which I believe also makes use of the shorter chain monomers in the handle.
So after taking that in to account your figures look slightly better as the difference taking the reduction of two atoms would bring the figure to 36.7534%. While this does improve your figures it is still not acceptable for us true idiots.

Cheers
Alan

Having used an acrylic flamed purpleheart board on a fretless I have to tell you your figures are way off. After extensive testing against an identical bass other than the fretboard. (For those of you that don't know I make 3 versions of every bass I get an order for but introduce subtle variations in to each one for test purposes.) Fortunately Larry is able to supply me with consecutive cuts from the same boards in order to keep the test as accurate as possible. After the customers bass is on the way to them I burn the other 2 because every bass I build is a one off so this is the only way I can ethically work. Any way after extensive testing in my purpose built full floating anechoic chamber I can tell you that your figures are wildly inaccurate. The actual increase in mid hump resonance ©® is 36.7536 % over the non acrylic board I find it difficult to believe that a respected builder like yourself would wish to associate themselves with such shoddy figures. However this anomaly could be explained by my insistence that Larry use a modified monomer in the process. I like the long chain monomers to be two atoms shorter than his normal monomer Larry is such a consummate professional that he cuts of the surplus atoms with his trusty pocket knife which I believe also makes use of the shorter chain monomers in the handle.
So after taking that in to account your figures look slightly better as the difference taking the reduction of two atoms would bring the figure to 36.7534%. While this does improve your figures it is still not acceptable for us true idiots.

Cheers
Alan

AHA! my numbers come from REAL WORLD (20'x35' bar with exactly 67 drunken middle aged males, 32 drunken twenty something females, 14 twenty something males - alcohol level doesn't matter here -, 2 virgin nerds, assorted waitresses and bar tenders and 1 bouncer sitting at the front entrance) testing, not any fully control pseudo scientific full floating anechoic chambers!!! Anyone who disagrees with my numbers is, by definition, wrong.

Well I may not always be right but I am never wrong.
I should point out that while conducting these tests I was totally rat arsed.
Cheers
Alan

I think you guys are on the wacky tobbacci. :p

I think you guys are on the wacky tobbacci. :p

My green fairy bottle never got here from my Dec 2007 order ...I think it may have been confiscated :( That sucks, 'cause it would have enhanced the mid-hump® RADICALLY :cool:

It the bridge really going to be that far away from the bottom of the bass? Wont that make it a lot heavier than necessary?

lowsound

It the bridge really going to be that far away from the bottom of the bass? Wont that make it a lot heavier than necessary?

lowsound

:eyebrow:

Moving the bridge wont make it heavier.

It might change the centre of gravity slightly but the weight will be the same.

Yes that is the bridge position. The bass already balances well and it's in the position luther is used to playing it with regard to the lower bout (he rests his right arm in a certain position).

now that is precise. Knowing your style well enough to know where the bridge needs to be

Wee bit update to show the actual woods side by side. It was Luther's idea to combine these colors which I think work very well!

http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/9784/img1998nx3.jpg
http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/4778/img1999xf6.jpg

Do I see a maple neck in the last pic?? I think that neck dont look good with allthe colored wood on its side so maybe I can help you keeping it :D

Do I see a maple neck in the last pic?? I think that neck dont look good with allthe colored wood on its side so maybe I can help you keeping it :D

Yes, that is a 3 piece maple neck. No, you can't have it. That is for that prototype VD5 I never seem to make any progress on :(

You may not realize it, but there are over half a dozen neck blanks visible in those pics. 3 purpleheart/yellowheart three piece blanks, 1 three piece ash, 1 seven piece bubinga/maple/purpleheart, 1 three piece bubinga/maple, there's that three piece maple that's almost done and the bloodwood. Crap! it's scary looking at it as a whole! I gotta get a handle on the amount of work I'm taking!

Here's the body rough cut, chambered and laminated. Also the headstock being scarf jointed to the neck.

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/1142/img2055ik3.jpg

http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/527/img2091rj0.jpg

update! wow what a beauty, whats that really really red wood in those pics above?

Going to be another work of art, Wilser!
IMO the KSC shape looks just as good with the deeper cutaway.

Any shots of the chambering prior to glue-up?

update! wow what a beauty, whats that really really red wood in those pics above?

Thanks. It's bloodwood. My wall right next to the sander currently looks like I just slaughtered something there.

Going to be another work of art, Wilser!
IMO the KSC shape looks just as good with the deeper cutaway.

Any shots of the chambering prior to glue-up?

Hey, thanks Bob! But unfortunately I was kind of pressed for time and didn't take a pic of the chambering, but it's basically the same shape of the upper wing with enough wood left on the forearm, tummy cut, pickup, bridge and transition block areas.

I envy you, :p I've been wanting to build a chambered for the longest!

I cant believe I missed the whole part about the mid hump. Wow you guys are nuts. My lungs, once again, hurt like hell. Im sure to sleep well tonight after all that laughing. That'll be a nice bass Wils, I like the colors used in the headstock and joint. Lookin forward to seeing some progress on this one. Peace.

Oh yea and please dont sue me for not using your registered copyrighted trademarked Mid-Hump-a-lot the right way. By no means did I mean to steal it from you, despite the envy. Thanks, I love you Professor.

I cant believe I missed the whole part about the mid hump. Wow you guys are nuts. My lungs, once again, hurt like hell. Im sure to sleep well tonight after all that laughing. That'll be a nice bass Wils, I like the colors used in the headstock and joint. Lookin forward to seeing some progress on this one. Peace.

:D consider yourself mid-humped®.

::D HAHAHAH AHAAAAAAAAAAA. Gotta love your sense of humour Wilser. Have a good one. Peace.

I can't stop laughing!!!!:D

What's all this about Mid-hump, anyway????

Wilser, you might have to explain this one! Please!!!!


:help:

R...

What's all this about Mid-hump, anyway????It's a humourous poking fun at the constant "what wood will make this sound" questions along with the huge subjectivity in the words used to describe the desired sound in the first place. It's a snippet from a long, funny sound description that wils posted. With some innuendo stirred in for good measure.

Man, I would have liked to have read the original post that started the whole "mid-hump" thing... :D

I dunno... if you search for a thread from a few months back, that probably has the words defined, glassy, clear, solid, solid, thumpy, clear, scooped, sustained, strong, lows, mids, highs, AND hump, you might get it.

Man, I would have liked to have read the original post that started the whole "mid-hump" thing... :D

Search for Wilsers posts witht he words low, mid, high, mid and hump

....argh!! Still can't stop laughing about this mid-hump (TM) thing~!

Wilser, are they any more Wilserisms that I should learn?

:ninja:

That bass for Luther is smokin'

Search for Wilsers posts with the words low, mid, high, mid and hump

Wouldn't that return too many results? :hiding:

I don't have time to read through 10,000 posts :D

Here are the purpleheart and yellowheart pin stripes being planed flush and glued on to the body wings.

http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/3646/img2127nl2.jpg
http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/4985/img2135he1.jpg
http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/925/img2134ln2.jpg

Here are the purpleheart and yellowheart pin stripes being planed flush and glued on to the body wings.


http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/4985/img2135he1.jpg


Hey, you can see the chambering on this view! :rolleyes:

Kidding aside, its a continuous treat to watch your instruments come to life!

:D that's the control cavity. you can consider it a chamber, if you like, but it will be stuffed with all kinds of electronic goodies ;)

Is the pickup a Lawrence L-500? I was talking to a guy at Guitar Center a while back and he showed me a pic of a 80's custom he had. It had two of the L-500's and he couldn't stop raving about how great they sounded. I've been thinking about giving them a try.

Is the pickup a Lawrence L-500? I was talking to a guy at Guitar Center a while back and he showed me a pic of a 80's custom he had. It had two of the L-500's and he couldn't stop raving about how great they sounded. I've been thinking about giving them a try.

I truly don't know and there are no markings on the pickup. I got some documentation but it's all about wiring it, nothing on what model it is.

Here's a quick mock up to see how it will all work together.

http://img108.imageshack.us/img108/4194/img2136as7.jpg

:D that's the control cavity. you can consider it a chamber, if you like, but it will be stuffed with all kinds of electronic goodies ;)

I did know it was for controls, Wilser.
That was my cute way of saying it looks like a chamber with that body depth.

HEY, this could be the birth of another copywritable feature:
The
Electronics Chamber!!
I don't know how to add the trade mark or copywrite symbols.

I did know it was for controls, Wilser.
That was my cute way of saying it looks like a chamber with that body depth.


tongue in cheek, baby, tongue in cheek.


HEY, this could be the birth of another copywritable feature:
The
Electronics Chamber®!!
I don't know how to add the trade mark or copywrite symbols.

there, fixed it :D

Again...another amazing Wilser creation in the works...

Wilser, is a "thicker" body better for creating "deeper" or "heavier" low end? (I used quotation marks, since the definition may be different to everyone.) :confused:

If not..do you have a preference in the building process? Is it safe to assume that thicker or thinner wood depends on the woods being used? (That is to say, thicker better for some woods, thinner for others)

Cheers!:hyper:

Again...another amazing Wilser creation in the works...

Wilser, is a "thicker" body better for creating "deeper" or "heavier" low end? (I used quotation marks, since the definition may be different to everyone.) :confused:

If not..do you have a preference in the building process? Is it safe to assume that thicker or thinner wood depends on the woods being used? (That is to say, thicker better for some woods, thinner for others)

Cheers!:hyper:

Hey Rudy, thanks for your comments.

We're using the thicker body for ergonomic reasons and was requested by the customer. Since we're using hard ash for the body it was almost a requirement that we chamber it so it doesn't weigh too much. Hopefully the weight will be just right to balance it with the bloodwood neck correctly.

Gotta love those Lie-Nielsen planes. I'd be lost without my LN low angle block plane.

P.S. The axe is looking sweet... as always.

Again...another amazing Wilser creation in the works...

Wilser, is a "thicker" body better for creating "deeper" or "heavier" low end? (I used quotation marks, since the definition may be different to everyone.) :confused:

If not..do you have a preference in the building process? Is it safe to assume that thicker or thinner wood depends on the woods being used? (That is to say, thicker better for some woods, thinner for others)

Cheers!:hyper:
I thought the less wood - the better resonance :confused:

Do you have any shots of the chambers before the top was glued?

Is the body thickness an attempt to get the neck further out in front of the belly area for better upper fingerboard access. I have often thought that this would be a good way to keep my forearm from coming into contact with my (bigger than it used to be ) belly. I've even put pillows and foam sheets between the bass and my body to simulate a thicker body (in the privacy of my own home of course). This is much more comfortable for my left hand as I don't have to turn my arm inward for upper register access. Thoughts?

Do you have any shots of the chambers before the top was glued?

Is the body thickness an attempt to get the neck further out in front of the belly area for better upper fingerboard access. I have often thought that this would be a good way to keep my forearm from coming into contact with my (bigger than it used to be ) belly. I've even put pillows and foam sheets between the bass and my body to simulate a thicker body (in the privacy of my own home of course). This is much more comfortable for my left hand as I don't have to turn my arm inward for upper register access. Thoughts?

Hi, unfortunately I didn't snap any pics before I glued the top to the body, but the chamber follows the body shape leaving some room for the tummy and forearm contours as well as the transition block carving. You are correct on what we're shooting for with the increased body thickness. You may also try eating more and growing a belly if your current bass sounds too good to replace ;)

I'm afraid any changes in my eating habits or just plain old calorie consumption could cause major problems for the balance of the earth and the cycle of the tides. I'll just find a way to change without actually changing anything about myself. As usual.

Fingerboard is glued to the neck. I will be aligning and gluing up the transition blocks on soon (there are 3 layers of transition blocks in this baby!

http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/9452/img2301ul4.jpg

Fingerboard is glued to the neck. I will be aligning and gluing up the transition blocks on soon (there are 3 layers of transition blocks in this baby!

http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/9452/img2301ul4.jpg

Do you normally locate your scarf joint under the fingerboard, or within the headstock? In this picture, it appears to be under the fingerboard, but I didn't remember seeing them that way on your other instruments.

Do you normally locate your scarf joint under the fingerboard, or within the headstock? In this picture, it appears to be under the fingerboard, but I didn't remember seeing them that way on your other instruments.

yes, always under the fingerboard. I like the look and IMHO it's a much safer scarf (whoever disagrees, please don't start a debate on this thread and open a new one, thanks!).

Here's a shot from a previous bass:
http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/4486/img1076ib4.jpg

About what fret does this joint start?

About what fret does this joint start?

this will be different in every bass I build and depends on what thickness headstock or neck blank I start with. I'm a go with the flow guy and keep it flex makes every bass a little bit more unique even if it has all the same woods and specs as another.

Llooks like around the second fret... :)

I think that is good lookin', Wilser... barely noticable at all, with all that birdseye around there. I would never debate the soundness of one joint vs. the other. I have done them both ways, I just thought you did yours in the headstock, for some reason, which is why I asked this time.
:hiding:

Llooks like around the second fret... :)

I think that is good lookin', Wilser... barely noticable at all, with all that birdseye around there. I would never debate the soundness of one joint vs. the other. I have done them both ways, I just thought you did yours in the headstock, for some reason, which is why I asked this time.
:hiding:

well, I did it a couple of times, but I didn't like them, so I'm doing them this way exclusively now.

Oh, please post a picture update on this bass. This is the one of yours that I am most interested in seeing progress pics. Please?

Sure,
This is all I got so far:

http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/715/img2311uf4.jpg

http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/9581/img2312jb1.jpg

MMMmmmm... I *do* so love bloodwood. I think I've found a way to fit bloodwood into all but one of the basses I've made in the last 3 years, and that one was my take on the jazz bass, so I want semi-traditional (one-piece bolt-on maple neck, mahogany body, no laminations anywhere).

Have you guys found bloodwood to be heavy enough to be a cause of concern for neck dive, or is it no problem? By the numbers, it's way heavy, but I was wondering what real experiences are.

It's a gorgeous wood.

It's heavy, but not so heavy that I'd worry about it. I've used it for years, and haven't found it to be a whole lot heavier than some of the maple I've used.

It's lighter than purpleheart, IMO... possibly about the same weight as wenge?

this particular neck still feels pretty heavy because the headstock hasn't been thicknessed and also has a purpleheart fingerboard, but it should all balance out once the body is in. I wouldn't use a solid bloodwood neck on a 6 string or more ...it would probably be too neck heavy if this weight isn't considered in the design.

A nice surprise is that the bloodwood is lightly flamed, though you still can't tell from the pics because of the bandsaw marks.

Mockup before gluing the body wings.

http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/8386/img2562fc5.jpg

http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/8662/img2563pp3.jpg

http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/8632/img2564bx9.jpg

http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/2014/img2565nj2.jpg

http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/8063/img2566qn3.jpg

http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/1464/img2567yq6.jpg

I think I can just make out the flaming. Looks great!

gluing on the body wings

http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/8978/img2639xw5.jpg

Very nice!

transition block rough carved

from this:
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/9584/img2648xr7.jpg

to this:
http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/2756/img2651ok3.jpg

the 3 octave 31" scale fingerboard side markers:
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/4783/img2654sb7.jpg

http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/2756/img2651ok3.jpg

Too,too cool!
Wilser, with all those varieties and colors of wood, that bass should be able to get every tone!!:hiding:

Wow Wilser! This one looks sick. That wood looks amazing together. I am usually not so into rainbows but that neck transition looks incredible.

I can only imagine how much mid hump that has

I had this great idea!

If you made this a string-through, you can custom set each ferrule
at a depth to get the most desired tonal properties for each string!

Affter doing searches all night, I learned the tonal properties of all those layered woods.
I then checked out Talkphysicalscience.com (http://www.snopes.com/risque/homosex/gerbil.asp)to learn how these woods interact when attached in this particular order.
I didn’t ask Wilser what glue he was using (it was 4:00 a.m. EST) so the results here may be a tad askew.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y171/He1mut/woodcolors.jpg

I know I'm just a layman, but I'm feeling just a bit proud right now.:smug:

Although that could be the effects of the red-bull/mt.dew/starbucks cocktails I've been suckin' down all night.

wilser...the next fodera, and the only man with a PHD in Mid Humpiness

I had this great idea!

If you made this a string-through, you can custom set each ferrule
at a depth to get the most desired tonal properties for each string!

Affter doing searches all night, I learned the tonal properties of all those layered woods.
I then checked out Talkphysicalscience.com (http://www.snopes.com/risque/homosex/gerbil.asp)to learn how these woods interact when attached in this particular order.
I didn’t ask Wilser what glue he was using (it was 4:00 a.m. EST) so the results here may be a tad askew.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y171/He1mut/woodcolors.jpg

I know I'm just a layman, but I'm feeling just a bit proud right now.:smug:

Although that could be the effects of the red-bull/mt.dew/starbucks cocktails I've been suckin' down all night.I was laughing out loud. Hilarious. This should be a pop-up window on the LC that springs open any time someone attempts to post a question containing the words, "what," "tone," and "wood."

you guys have WAAAAAY too much free time :D

The only problem is that I'm using hipshot triple lockdown individual bridges which apart from being a huge pain in the rear to install have that hollow bolt/through body thingie that holds the bridge in place, so no ferrules ...sorry. But in a lighter note, said bolts have to be inlaid pretty deep into the back of the body (given the thick chambered design) so the string's ball may end up in the mid-hump zone :D

Wilser Ive hear by now three or four guys saying that those bridges from Hipshot are a PIA. I thought they were easy to install as any other bridge? Why that bridge is THAT hard to install?

the through bolt is mandatory, that's #1, #2 is that they have a protruding element (where the through bolt screws on) that you need to route a recess for. This makes installation a PIA.

you guys have WAAAAAY too much free time :D
In scienctifical pursuits, one makes free time!!

The only problem is that I'm using hipshot triple lockdown individual bridges which apart from being a huge pain in the rear to install have that hollow bolt/through body thingie that holds the bridge in place, so no ferrules ...sorry. :D
I've already considered that contingency.
After several harrasing calls to Hipshot, threatening to get really,really mad at them,
they've agreed to do custom length "thingies". :rolleyes:

Seriously, they ought to offer a surface mount version.
Unless there's a patent issue with the original single-string-bridge designers.

Wilser,
How do you taper your neck blank, band saw and jig or table saw? I am not a fan of Purple heart but this one is looking very nice!

Wow, what a nice bass

Wilser,
How do you taper your neck blank, band saw and jig or table saw? I am not a fan of Purple heart but this one is looking very nice!

Router on the table and a straight edge jig, after I bandsaw close to the line.

...ball may end up in the mid-hump zone :Dare you allowed to say that on TB?
;)

Router on the table and a straight edge jig, after I bandsaw close to the line.

Thank you very much, Wilser!

are you allowed to say that on TB?
;)

shh, I already have 3 infractions and 1 ban on my history, don't need much more controversy.

Here's the neck shaped D style (I gotta confirm with luther if this is the way he likes it).

http://img67.imageshack.us/img67/1407/img2688wj0.jpg

Man, that neck shaft looks beautiful.

My, I've never seen a D shaft of such a lovely color.

Yeah, that looks incredible Wilser. The transition is also superb.

see why the triple lockdowns are a pain in the butt to install? but darn they're cool.

Since the body is pretty thick I plan on routing a huge access on the back that will serve to cover both the recessed through bolts and the preamp battery but with the same wenge cover to match the transition block.

oh, I'm also making a purpleheart pickup ring.

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/2609/img2991rk9.jpg
http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/6720/img2992gz5.jpg
http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/3025/img2996gx9.jpg
http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/3834/img2997jy7.jpg

I LIKE it! :D
Luckily the individual saddles I use are pretty easy to install... :hiding:

transition block rough carved

from this:
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/9584/img2648xr7.jpg

to this:
http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/2756/img2651ok3.jpg

the 3 octave 31" scale fingerboard side markers:
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/4783/img2654sb7.jpg


how or what did you use to sand out the back like you did, this is a truly inspiring thread, thanks so much for sharing

how or what did you use to sand out the back like you did, this is a truly inspiring thread, thanks so much for sharing

it's my pleasure. there is another thread where I describe the tools I use for caving the transition. It's basically safe-t-planer, carving gauges and kutzall grinding wheels, rasps, sanding ...in that order.

Here's the back cover that'll house the battery and hide the string through body bolts of the triple lockdowns. It'll get a magnet held wenge cover.

http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/2873/img3035yr4.jpg
http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/8472/img3034ek1.jpg

That's just damn purdy, Wil!

shh, I already have 3 infractions and 1 ban on my history, don't need much more controversy.

Here's the neck shaped D style (I gotta confirm with luther if this is the way he likes it).

http://img67.imageshack.us/img67/1407/img2688wj0.jpg

Oh Ì do like it when you make things all shiny (I'm not stoned by the way)

Please finish this one! I have been waiting !

wow, just now when I was exporting the image I found an old image from before I started this one. what a nice rainbow of wood colors Luther selected!

http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/4778/img1999xf6.jpg

Just finished the covers, just need some slight tool mark removal via sanding and it's all ready for finishing!

http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/3508/img3145au1.jpg

Wow, the back of that is gorgeous!

it's my pleasure. there is another thread where I describe the tools I use for caving the transition. It's basically safe-t-planer, carving gauges and kutzall grinding wheels, rasps, sanding ...in that order.

Here's the back cover that'll house the battery and hide the string through body bolts of the triple lockdowns. It'll get a magnet held wenge cover.

http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/2873/img3035yr4.jpg
http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/8472/img3034ek1.jpg

brilliant design!!

jesus that's beautiful.

let's see if we can get this little guy out of here by the end of the month or at least early Dec. For some reason sanding on this one has been very touch on me (well, all the dense woods would explain that easily).

Here's the brass nut and the pickup ring (which needed a wee repair because of a dull drill bit).

http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/743/img3589xt2.jpg
http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/8836/img3590ma9.jpg

coming together very nicely

I've said it before and I'll say it again.....

Wilser, you're the next Vinny Fodera, with this kind of workmanship!

I just hope I can catch you on some free time to get some advice and shop for some wood soon.

Wilser I thought you use always a zero fret on your builds. Is it a customer requirement not to use one this time?

hmm hrrm Enrique... (fretless) ;)

hmm hrrm Enrique... (fretless) ;)

:hiding:

I've said it before and I'll say it again.....

Wilser, you're the next Vinny Fodera, with this kind of workmanship!

I just hope I can catch you on some free time to get some advice and shop for some wood soon.

though I really think the first part of the comment is greatly exaggerated I'd love to get together and go woodshopping. I need to go to Dunlap to get some figured walnut and curly soft maple soon.

hmm hrrm Enrique... (fretless) ;)

hehe, yeah, I think he missed that part. But to answer Enrique's question, the zero fret is my preference because I feel it has all of the benefits and none of the drawbacks of regular nuts, but it's not the only option and I don't charge extra for regular nuts (brass nuts do cost extra, though). For this particular bass I tried to talk the customer out of the brass nut, but he insisted that he wanted the "gold" look at the nut. I'm even gonna have to find some gold colored bolts for the pickup which came with chrome colored ones.

coating started

http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/5191/img3593eq8.jpg
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/5972/img3594uw8.jpg
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/7240/img3595ay3.jpg
http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/2614/img3596nw4.jpg

Cooking thanksgiving dinner in between coats I'm about 1/2 way through the 15-20 coats:
http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/8421/img3617vb4.jpg
http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/2307/img3618ll7.jpg
http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/5036/img3619od6.jpg
http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/4749/img3620yw2.jpg
http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/1528/img3621qg8.jpg

Wow :eek:

Great body shape!

yeah, the digital mockup made the body shape look kinda weird, i didnt really like it, but its awesome in the real thing

very nice. like the details in the neck woods. the colors flow well. your work is incredible. There is little to give feedback for improvement on. Keep working and progressing!

Lovely!!!

That's ridiculously nice, Wilser. Good work!

nice!. hey, i am curious of the sound of your pickups. they have always looked sweet, i have a curiousity of things like, if you mixed this and that in a pickup, would it be like this. would i be able to buy pickups you make? if so, could i have them made custom?

nice!. hey, i am curious of the sound of your pickups. they have always looked sweet, i have a curiousity of things like, if you mixed this and that in a pickup, would it be like this. would i be able to buy pickups you make? if so, could i have them made custom?

First of all, note that this bass will have a custom bill lawrence pickup supplied by the customer. Because I make pickups 100% by hand I am limited as to what I can offer in an efficient and cost effective manner, but PM me if you're interested. This same hand-made limitation is what allows me to do custom configs.

As for the sound, that's a very subjective subject, but if you go through the builds on my website or search for the build threads I've started here you'll find I always post a sound clip (be it with off the shelf brand name pickups or custom made by me). That should give you a pretty good idea since almost always the pickups I make are wound for a specific sound the customer may be looking for.