How would that work on a fretless neck? The nice epoxy seems to be banned in Sweden for some reason..:confused: So i thought of wood floor lacquer. Its made to walk on so i guess its hard enough. Am i right?

Hi Linkert, your question is very ambigous, I would suggest you purchase a small amount of the product (quart or less if possible) and run some tests. Apply it per instructions and let it cure for 2 weeks, then try the fingernail indent test, press the edge of your fingernail against the finish and see if it makes much of a dent or barely a scratch. If it dents, it's probably not hard enough. I would suggest you apply several coats as thin as possible as this helps cure time and allows the finish to set harder.

Hi Linkert, your question is very ambigous, I would suggest you purchase a small amount of the product (quart or less if possible) and run some tests. Apply it per instructions and let it cure for 2 weeks, then try the fingernail indent test, press the edge of your fingernail against the finish and see if it makes much of a dent or barely a scratch. If it dents, it's probably not hard enough. I would suggest you apply several coats as thin as possible as this helps cure time and allows the finish to set harder.
Now why didn't i think of that.. :smug:
Thanks.

They put anti-scuff agents into wood floor lacquer to help prevent rubber heel marks, etc. This anti-scuff is a bit like a plasticiser, so the surface is very very slightly oily and softened - softer than the 'normal' product. You should not use it for guitars in my opinion.

What about CA (cyanoacrylate, super glue, etc. - call it what you want)? I've heard of people (tjclem) thinning this down and using it as a fingerboard coating.

What about CA (cyanoacrylate, super glue, etc. - call it what you want)? I've heard of people (tjclem) thinning this down and using it as a fingerboard coating.
I really LOVE this stuff. When used with great care, and applied in tiny amounts, the 'CA' will fill any ding quite well. Hard enough for fretboards? Definitely.. I have an old '92 Strat with a maple neck.. that crappy lacquer they used that year is brittle.. so I've made several repairs on the Fender using nothing more than 'CA'.. Once it is VERY cured and hard, a patient buffing and re-buffing using carnuba wax will eventually bring the spot repair flush with the surface.

+1 for CA: I've heard a lot of people really swear by it though I have still not found the correct type to use as a coating/sealer. What do you use to thin it down?

in the US you can buy CA with the consistancy of water...