I searched, but found no answer. I'm using an active EB MM Sterling and a passive Lakland Fretless (bought from a fellow TB'er). I run the basses through my effects, and then into a DI for the house, out to my rig for monitoring onstage (either an ampeg b100, svt or demeter rig, depending on club size).

When I switch basses of course the soundguy is outside grabbing a smoke. I've used active for years so was never a problem.

What's the onstage remedy to get the passive bass boosted in the house by myself?

My GBE 600 head and my Sans Amp PDDI both have a switch for active/passive input, so it's not a worry for me.

I've used active and passive together since 1979 with my first Music Man StingRay. I've never ever had an active bass that's appreciably louder than my passive ones. Unless you're drastically boosting the EQ there's not much reason to worry about relative volume levels. If you're using a lot of boost with the on-board pre-amp, the solution is to just turn the volume on the instrument down so it matches your passive bass' output.

But I've never had to do that with Music Man, Lakland, Mighty Mite (the pre in a Guild Pilot I had), nor Seymour Duncan pre-amps.

jte

I'm picky, the only sound I like is with the bass and treble boosted a hair and the mid flat with the volume on full. Otherwise I don't like the sound. Actually, I'd be fine removing all the knobs if I could just have that one sound and one volume knob for between songs.

It's way different as well, night and day in terms of volume or I wouldn't worry about it.

The Radial Bassbone does that nicely. I used one to gain balance a Dark Starred Precision with other basses. Very handy. DI is good enough for live work and the switchable effects loop with boost is hip as well.

+1 to the Radial Bassbone. My Rob Allen is WAY hotter signal than my Sadowsky so I can easily balance the two basses before the soundcheck. The switchable/boostable FX loop is a great feature as well. The Bassbone is the heart of my pedalboard.

Later
Rob

My passive G&L SB2 is actually hotter than my Stingray. Go figure.
Leo Fender genius.

The simplest solution would be to turn the active bass's volume down until it matches that of the passive on full, then mark the control in some fashion.

The Radial Bigshot i/o does this nicely as well.