50's Kay M-1...is it worth repairing?

chasyboy · #1 09-22-2009, 04:51 PM

I just picked up 3'4 double bass on craigslist for $300 bucks. It has a crack in the middle of the neck but has been doweled and has been solid in place for 10 years. It's in good shape, very few dings but needs the neck worked on and a fretboard replaning, usual stuff for an old guitar. Everything is original (bridge, soundpost, tailpiece, endpin, etc)...likely even the strings!

Took it to a local luthier and he says it's a 50's M-1 Kay bass. He recognized it right away as he said it is exactly like the first bass he got back in the 50's. He said he can get it in solid playing condition for $600. Includes removing the neck, putting a solid bolt through it (where the crack is) glueing correctly, resetting. Plus re-plane the neck (rosewood) to remove the bevel and complete set-up (replace the bridge with new adjustable, soundpost, end pin, etc).

I have a nice Meisel laminate and wanted a second bass. Since I'm new to double basses, I just took a shot not knowing what it was. I figured that if it costs a bunch to get playable, I could dump it for at least for the $300 I have in it. (came with a Meisel stand).

My question is should I spend the $600+ to get it playable and if I do, could I resell it for what I'd have into it ($300+600+200 strings = $1,100)? Ideally, if it ends up sounding good, I'd keep it as a back up but need to know if it's 'worth' getting fixed. Thanks in advance. You all are the best to us newbies.

Band Dad · #2 09-22-2009, 05:05 PM

I would think that you could easily get back whatever you put into that Kay (and more) if the repair work is very good, and if the resulting tone is what one would expect from a vintage M-1. Others will be stopping by, I'm sure, with more on this.

It sounds to me like you've picked up a remarkable deal. Best of luck with that!

Paul Warburton · #3 09-22-2009, 06:42 PM

+1.
Make sure to have your guy check out the headstock when he does the fretboard.

chasyboy · #4 09-22-2009, 10:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul Warburton

+1.
Make sure to have your guy check out the headstock when he does the fretboard.

What should I have him check in the headstock,Paul?

Gearhead43 · #5 09-22-2009, 10:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chasyboy

What should I have him check in the headstock,Paul?

Paul was yanking your chain. Double basses don't have "headstocks" or "fretboards".

The talk of the luthier using a bolt has me worried that he doesn't work on many double basses, or shouldn't anyway.

bassybeenz · #6 09-22-2009, 10:48 PM

hes willing to do that for only 600? i say do it, you'll easily get much more than cost if you do decide to sell it. if i didnt already have a DB id be considering pming you to buy it

salcott · #7 09-22-2009, 11:03 PM

$600 sounds lowish to me. The bolt concept is a bit disturbing as well.

Phil Rowan · #8 09-22-2009, 11:13 PM

Careful about that $600 bill for that job.. IMHO, short term you might think you're getting a deal on the repair, when you may actually end up paying double that amount down the road re-fixing things that should have been done properly in the first place.

Gearhead43 · #9 09-22-2009, 11:33 PM

Plus, if the doweled neck repair has held fine for 10 years, then it should be fine as is - IMO.

Bill Bentgen · #10 09-23-2009, 06:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gearhead43

Paul was yanking your chain. Double basses don't have "headstocks" or "fretboards".

The talk of the luthier using a bolt has me worried that he doesn't work on many double basses, or shouldn't anyway.

Using a wood screw in the neck/top block is not that unusual. I had a bass with this type of repair performed by a guy that worked on a lot of famous basses.

$300 for an M-1 is a steal. I've had one since 1962 and wouldn't part with it even though I own a Pöllmann.

chasyboy · #11 09-23-2009, 09:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phil Rowan

Careful about that $600 bill for that job.. IMHO, short term you might think you're getting a deal on the repair, when you may actually end up paying double that amount down the road re-fixing things that should have been done properly in the first place.

Ha, ha I thought $600 was high. What do I know. This guy is fairly well respected. Did a great job on my Meisel and a buddy's Kay, so I thinks he's legit...just works out of his garage and is a killer player himself. I think he does it for fun, not profit. Lucky me...I think. Thanks!

chasyboy · #12 09-23-2009, 09:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gearhead43

Plus, if the doweled neck repair has held fine for 10 years, then it should be fine as is - IMO.

Held to the extent that it did not break off but didn't hold enough to keep the fingerboard from moving top forward just enough to make the action way too high.

chasyboy · #13 09-23-2009, 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gearhead43

Paul was yanking your chain. Double basses don't have "headstocks" or "fretboards".

The talk of the luthier using a bolt has me worried that he doesn't work on many double basses, or shouldn't anyway.

Ha, ha, ha....boy do I feel stupid. Right fingerboards, not fretboards. Kinda confirms me being a newbie.

Thanks for your patience with me.

I've decided to get it repaired and give it a go. Thanks to everyone, I really appreciate the advice.

chasyboy · #14 09-23-2009, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill Bentgen

Using a wood screw in the neck/top block is not that unusual. I had a bass with this type of repair performed by a guy that worked on a lot of famous basses.

$300 for an M-1 is a steal. I've had one since 1962 and wouldn't part with it even though I own a Pöllmann.

Cool! What kind of strings do you have on your Kay? He's recommending Spirocore Weichs. I'm leaning toward Evah P's Weichs?

chrisplaysbass · #15 09-23-2009, 09:45 AM

word of warning. If you you try to resell the bass a good luthier will check for metal (screws, pins, etc) This will lower the value. Im with SALCOTT about the bolt.

deaf pea · #16 09-23-2009, 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chasyboy

...Plus re-plane the neck (rosewood) to remove the bevel and complete set-up (replace the bridge with new adjustable, soundpost, end pin, etc)...

If the "bevel" you're talking about is the flat part where the "E" string is, you probably need to re-think whether that particular repair is needed . . .

IIRC, that "bevel" is there for a reason . . .

.

Marcus Johnson · #17 09-23-2009, 10:06 AM

Exactly.... why do you want to remove the bevel?

Phil Rowan · #18 09-23-2009, 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chasyboy

but didn't hold enough to keep the fingerboard from moving top forward just enough to make the action way too high.

Yikes.. any way you could post pictured of this bass, and of the previous repairs and neck crack in particular?

tomshepp · #19 09-23-2009, 10:42 AM

Maybe get a second opinion? $300. is short $$ for an old Kay. But be clear about what it needs to get into playing shape. Research what old Kays sell for and go from there. MHO.

Bill Bentgen · #20 09-23-2009, 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chasyboy

Cool! What kind of strings do you have on your Kay? He's recommending Spirocore Weichs. I'm leaning toward Evah P's Weichs?

You won't like this, but I have Flexocores on it. This bass has a gorgeous arco sound believe it or don't. I bought it in 1962 and it was in such rough cosmetic shape that I refinished it. I use an AI Contra with it to play big-band gigs and the Flexocores sound great.

Pictures here:
http://www.billbentgen.com/bass/my_basses.htm