Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenra   Hi, Im new here and could use some help fixing up a cheap ($160) ply bass. Im no stranger to wood working or playing upright, just never worked on my upright.
The top has become detached about 25% and needs to be glued. Any recomendations on glue/applicators (i.e. Needle) should I prep these accessible areas with a light sanding. I need help positioning the sound post too. The tail piece is chipped on the lower underside and is no longer attached to the end pin. Any ideas there, fixable? any cheap ideas?
All and all its a cheap bass that I can learn to work on, with some help 
In the end Id like to set this up for the slap thing (not my pref but the latest gig calls for it). Be nice not to worry on the road too.
thanks for your time |
Welcome to the DB Forums. A profile would be nice.
To get you started on your project -
Better to post repair questions in the future in the Setup and Repair forum.
If you search first and ask second you will get more help.
Post pictures, you will get more help if the degree of the problem is understood and pictures help a lot.
GLUE - Never, never re-glue a top or nearly anything on a DB with any kind of glue except HIDE glue, preferably HOT HIDE GLUE. There is plenty of info about it herein and on the net. It is worth learning about and getting into if you are working with instruments. Do not glue the top with anything else.
Look into the RIVAL hot pot at Target for $15 for a cheap glue pot.
Don't underestimate the clamps required to glue a top.
You may need a new tailpiece and/or a new tailgut (cable) - not expensive or hard to install. But who can say without a picture.
Sound post - Picture a compass on the bass front. First the bridge position. It is generally centered between the ff holes east and west and is always centered north and south on a line extended between the inner ff notches.
There is probably a mark or indention where the sound post sets and it should correspond with the instructions below.
Try the sound post positioned south of the treble bridge foot with about 1/2" space between and in-line or a little east of the center of the foot. The post end cuts should match the contour of the top and the back so it does not dig in. It should fit just snug enough to not fall when installed. Although special tools are available, you can use things like BBQ forks, heavy wire or string, or a framing square to manipulate it.
Hope this helps.
