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03-17-2008, 07:35 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Montreal, QC, Canada | | | end pin Hey everybody,
I was just wondering if anybody here has or have dealt with those end pins with the metal "watch-battery looking thing" on the inside. what is that all about?
I had played a gig where I had arranged with the other bass player to use his bass (didn't feel like dragging mine around). He told me to watch out with the end pin. I didn't quite understand. I went to adjust the end pin, and then I heard something fall inside of the bass. The end pin wouldn't tighten after that, it would just keep sinking. I was so scared I broke it, lol.
After a few minutes of shaking the bass upside down, I got the little "metal thing" out the f-hole.
The bass player got back and I explained the whole thing to him, he then proceeded to fix the end-pin by some how putting that metal pin back into the end-pin hole.
How the heck do these things work? They don't seem practical to me.
hope to hear from you soon. Thanks in advance.
Mike
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03-17-2008, 09:01 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: North Carolina | | I think you may have run into this endpin: http://www.internationalviolin.com/i...?ItemCode=4590
I have these endpins installed on both my American Standard basses. The way it works is this. The metal piece you heard fall is a small circular piece with cork on the side that contacts the endpin. This cork covered surface is concave to match the convex form of the side of the endpin. When you tighten the screw it pushes against the side of the endpin and secures the setting you have chosen.
There is a stop built into the top end of the endpin, prohibiting the removal of the endpin, once installed. If the stop is removed prior to installation of the endpin assembly, then the endpin can be pulled completely out of the bass, but the screw and the corked piece needs to be on the lower side to prevent it from falling out of it's designated place in the collar assembly.
I've done it myself with my own bass. I didn't remove the stop at the top of the endpin when I installed the assembly on my second bass. This prevents your unfortunate incident.
Does this help? | 
03-17-2008, 09:40 AM
| | Banned Owner: Ken Smith Basses, Ltd. | | Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Perkasie, PA USA | | Insert.. Quote:
Originally Posted by M Ramsey I think you may have run into this endpin: http://www.internationalviolin.com/i...?ItemCode=4590
I have these endpins installed on both my American Standard basses. The way it works is this. The metal piece you heard fall is a small circular piece with cork on the side that contacts the endpin. This cork covered surface is concave to match the convex form of the side of the endpin. When you tighten the screw it pushes against the side of the endpin and secures the setting you have chosen.
There is a stop built into the top end of the endpin, prohibiting the removal of the endpin, once installed. If the stop is removed prior to installation of the endpin assembly, then the endpin can be pulled completely out of the bass, but the screw and the corked piece needs to be on the lower side to prevent it from falling out of it's designated place in the collar assembly.
I've done it myself with my own bass. I didn't remove the stop at the top of the endpin when I installed the assembly on my second bass. This prevents your unfortunate incident.
Does this help? | On that Loose insert, if it falls in just turn the Bass upside down and let it fall out thru the FFs. To prevent this, I have put 2 layers of scotch tape over it inside the endpin. Also, mark what side it is on outside the endpin so you know how to lay the Bass down when removing the endpin. This way it will not fall out as the Tape can fail. I had this pin style for 20 years on my old Italian bass and just learned to live with it. It is also on one of my Shen's and it too is doing just fine. | 
03-17-2008, 10:01 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Montreal, QC, Canada | | | thanks guys, but I think my next bass is going to have the grooved stops so that I don't have to worry about that metal pin falling out when putting in an end-pin wheel. If not, I think I would actually change the endpin to avoid any incidents.
Thanks again for your input.
Mike | 
03-17-2008, 04:30 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: the end of the section | | | That sounds annoying... I just have the standard grooved/crutch tip steel pin, cut to the actual length I use. (short) That way I can just stick it in the pocket of my bag and slip the wheel in the socket. | 
03-19-2008, 07:10 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada | | | I've seen a few variations on the 'coin' type endpin thingy, and while it's not the most care-free sort of design, it does do an excellent job of avoiding scarring of the endpin itself. This can be especially important with aluminum pins, where a thumbscrew can quite quickly render the pin so scratched and dented as to not slide easily in the hole any longer. Still, when players regularly swap between endpin and wheel for transport, this little button of metal can be an annoyance.
These days I recommend the n-pin, a rather elegantly designed bit of machining. The carbon fibre model with stainless and carbide tip is light and very solid, but the most amazing thing is the locking mechanism; a simple quick release borrowed from mountain bike design. His latest release is very nice looking. I've no financial connection to the maker, but have installed about half a dozen of these things, and every player I've seen using one has been completely happy with the solidity and ease of operation. | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | |
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