Help with used plywood

[ERIC A]

I recently found a plywood bass on consignment in a music shop in Maryland. It doesn’t have any labels or markings, but seems like it could be a good buy with a good set-up. It definitely has a rosewood fingerboard, so I am sure it wasn't a "high-end" bass. I spoke with the gentleman who owns it and the only thing he could tell me is that he bought from a violin shop back in the 1970's. My question is there anything obvious things I should look for before I make the purchase ($675.00).

Thanks for the help

[Rocky]

Originally Posted by ERIC A

I recently found a plywood bass on consignment in a music shop in Maryland. It doesn’t have any labels or markings, but seems like it could be a good buy with a good set-up. It definitely has a rosewood fingerboard, so I am sure it wasn't a "high-end" bass. I spoke with the gentleman who owns it and the only thing he could tell me is that he bought from a violin shop back in the 1970's. My question is there anything obvious things I should look for before I make the purchase ($675.00).

Thanks for the help

I'm somewhat of a newbie to DB so I would hire a reputable luthier to look it over before making any commitment.

[OmnitzGarima]

How does it sound? Are you buying it as a player, or as an investment? If I liked the way it played, and I liked the way it sounded, I'd make them an offer anyway. Offer them what you think it's worth as a player.

[fdeck]

I agree with Rocky. A used plywood bass could fall into one of three categories:

Perfect score: The bass needs no significant repairs, and is ready to go with new strings, a setup, and maybe the addition of bridge adjusters.

Good deal: The bass needs some work, but nothing that involves opening up the bass or other drastic measures

Disaster: The bass needs work costing more than the instrument is worth, possibly even more than the cost of a decent new ply bass.

A luthier could keep you out of the disaster zone, and in any event it will help to have a luthier or teacher look at it anyway after you buy it.

My old ply was a Disaster when I got it, but it was free. The two problems were a loose bass bar and a cracked neck block. I personally think that a Disaster bass should only be considered by someone who can afford the risk and sweat equity of fixing it themselves.

[ERIC A]

Thanks for the replies. I would be using this bass as a back-up bass. But as a Father of three, I want to try to make sure I don't make a bad investment. Cosmetically the bass looks fine. It sounds OK, but I have a luthier in the area that can take a cheap bass and make it sound good. Unfortunately, I am not going to be able to get him to come out to the music store prior to the buy. Thanks again

[drurb]

If you can't have a luthier or another reasonably qualified player look at it, then I'd pass. I'm assuming that you don't feel confident enough doing the inspection yourself. Can you post any pics? I realize it's in a store but if it's a gem, then it may just be worth fixing even if there are some semi-disastrous problems.

[fdeck]

I suspect that if the neck joint is in good condition, blocks intact, and the bass bar is fully attached, then the likelihood of Disaster is greatly reduced. The bass bar can be inspected with a bright light and an inspection mirror.

[Rocky]

You could also ask the seller if they will allow you to bring the bass back for a refund if the luthier does not think its in good condition (within reason of course).

[forester]

Originally Posted by ERIC A

My question is there anything obvious things I should look for before I make the purchase ($675.00).

Thanks for the help

* wife's tears
* childrens' hungry eyes
*more space

[E.P. Miller]

You should not think of any laminate bass as an investment. Buy it because you want to play it. They are great tools. I value my laminate bass because I have no reservations about playing it in any environment. Investment grade instruments are a whole different ball game. I see prices for older laminate basses that are not terribly different from what they were a decade ago. $675 is cheaper than the cheapest good laminate Chinese import currently available. As others have mentioned, protect yourself and take it to a luthier for a check-up to find out how much you'll spend when it's all said and done.

[ERIC A]

I snaped this picture a few day ago. It dosen't show much, but...

[wdnewman]

Can't tell much from that picture, but from that angle it doesn't look like the bridge is in the correct position, which would mean no setup. It may be the angle. Can you post more pictures?

[Greg Clinkingbeard]

The bridge got bumped to the E side and just needs to be centered. The bridge wood shows no dirt or oxidation, so I doubt it dates to the 1970's. I would sight down the fingerboard from the scroll to the bridge looking for a smooth, bump free fingerboard and also center the bridge this way. Look for any evidence of repairs, especially neck and scroll and walk if you see any. Also check the back for any bump where the soundpost might have begun to push through. That is not uncommon on plywoods.
If it plays well I doubt you would get hurt too badly on it.

[davpal]

If the bass is truly 30 years old, plays well and sounds decent (you're already a player so you know what a bass should be) I'd buy it before somebody else does.
Are those gut strings on it now?

[wineaux]

Eric,

I think I've played this bass (sending you a PM to be sure).

The bass has decent tone and is in overall good condition. It could use a new bridge and new strings, so I'd factor that into your decision. IMO, you could do a heck of a lot worse for the money. It's a serviceable piece.

(No connection with the store or owner. I just happen to play this bass every time I visit the shop.)

Good luck!

[truckplayer]

Erica

I live in northern va and looking to check out stores carrying basses. Not wanting to interfere with your possible bass purchase so once your decision is made, can you tell me the name of the store and its location?

appreciative,

truckplayer