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01-13-2009, 04:20 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Western Sydney, Australia | | | Questions from a newbie. Hi everybody. I've played DB for a grand total of about... ooh a hour. But I really wanna learn it, and this time it's different. I didn't stick to the harmonica or ukulele because there wasn't anything in particular I wanted to learn on it, I just liked the concept. Which got old very quickly. I wanna learn bluegrass bass (and by extension, blues), and maybe a bit of rockabilly just to spice the bluegrass up.
Anyway. I have many and assorted questions to ask.
1) I'd also like to play classical, but no where near as much as the above mentioned styles. Des this mean that I should get gut (or nylon) strings for rockabilly slapping and the thumpy sound for bluegrass, then later on in my bassing I can get metal strings for the classical (maybe a touch of tango)? Is that a good idea?
2) I saw it suggested that classical or jazz players wanting to play rockabilly could get the classical metal "solo" strings, but just tune them to normal tuning so that there is less tension for the slapping. Would this be an acceptable alternative to gut/nylon? Or is gut/nylon still the best option for bluegrass/rockabilly?
3) I've always REALLY LOVED the look of the Blonde Bass. Are there any specific characteristics of this kind of bass (ie the wood etc) that I should be aware of, in relation to my previous questions and quandaries?
4) What's the deal with 5+ stringed basses? I would IMAGINE that in a band setting, the low extra string would be drowned out; I had trouble hearing the bass solo even on the regular E string at a jazz performance. Also, would a higher fifth string make it a lot harder to get used to if you were weaned on regular 4 strings? Just asking; it's prolly a DUH answer, but iunno. Also, having both high and low extra strings (=6)... what are the dis/advantages with that? Is this mainly for jazz/classical soloing?
5) I've often seen advertised "rockabilly" basses for much lower prices than the rest of the sites products. What's the deal with this? Are they poorer quality? I would have thought they would be more expensive, because they would have to be built solid, what with the crazy **** rockabilly bassists do.
I will come up with more questions, edit this post, and post another post saying I've edited the first post. If there is already a topic explaining any of these things, feel free to post the links instead of re-explaining it.
Thanks a million, guys. Your support means a whole lot to me. 
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Last edited by CalebWilson : 01-13-2009 at 04:45 AM.
Reason: typo
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01-13-2009, 07:09 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Boston, MA | | Quote:
Originally Posted by CalebWilson Hi everybody. I've played DB for a grand total of about... ooh a hour. But I really wanna learn it, and this time it's different. I didn't stick to the harmonica or ukulele because there wasn't anything in particular I wanted to learn on it, I just liked the concept. Which got old very quickly. I wanna learn bluegrass bass (and by extension, blues), and maybe a bit of rockabilly just to spice the bluegrass up.
Anyway. I have many and assorted questions to ask.
1) I'd also like to play classical, but no where near as much as the above mentioned styles. Des this mean that I should get gut (or nylon) strings for rockabilly slapping and the thumpy sound for bluegrass, then later on in my bassing I can get metal strings for the classical (maybe a touch of tango)? Is that a good idea?
2) I saw it suggested that classical or jazz players wanting to play rockabilly could get the classical metal "solo" strings, but just tune them to normal tuning so that there is less tension for the slapping. Would this be an acceptable alternative to gut/nylon? Or is gut/nylon still the best option for bluegrass/rockabilly?
3) I've always REALLY LOVED the look of the Blonde Bass. Are there any specific characteristics of this kind of bass (ie the wood etc) that I should be aware of, in relation to my previous questions and quandaries?
4) What's the deal with 5+ stringed basses? I would IMAGINE that in a band setting, the low extra string would be drowned out; I had trouble hearing the bass solo even on the regular E string at a jazz performance. Also, would a higher fifth string make it a lot harder to get used to if you were weaned on regular 4 strings? Just asking; it's prolly a DUH answer, but iunno. Also, having both high and low extra strings (=6)... what are the dis/advantages with that? Is this mainly for jazz/classical soloing?
5) I've often seen advertised "rockabilly" basses for much lower prices than the rest of the sites products. What's the deal with this? Are they poorer quality? I would have thought they would be more expensive, because they would have to be built solid, what with the crazy **** rockabilly bassists do.
I will come up with more questions, edit this post, and post another post saying I've edited the first post. If there is already a topic explaining any of these things, feel free to post the links instead of re-explaining it.
Thanks a million, guys. Your support means a whole lot to me.  | Welcome, Caleb. So glad you like the DB. Yes, there are links; hundreds of 'em. Here's a starting point: BASS FORUM LINKS (Newbie Links): PLEASE READ BEFORE POSTING NEW TOPICS
In general, as you open each sub-forum, there are "stickies" at the top, or newbie links, or both. Hours of entertainment there.
Again, we're glad that you're here.  | 
01-13-2009, 09:52 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Baltimore | | Quote:
Originally Posted by CalebWilson 4) What's the deal with 5+ stringed basses? I would IMAGINE that in a band setting, the low extra string would be drowned out; I had trouble hearing the bass solo even on the regular E string at a jazz performance. Also, would a higher fifth string make it a lot harder to get used to if you were weaned on regular 4 strings? Just asking; it's prolly a DUH answer, but iunno. Also, having both high and low extra strings (=6)... what are the dis/advantages with that? Is this mainly for jazz/classical soloing? | The deal is that there's an extra string ;D It's actually not that common because you end up with a wider fingerboard, which makes getting your fingers on that low E (or low B/C) is more difficult. It also makes the bass heavier and the strings are closer together, which necessitates more precise bowing.
Most serious classical musicians simply have an extension added, which takes the low E to a lower note, like C. That way, they can still play the occasional below-E note without modifying the playability of their instrument.
You very rarely see 6 on a double bass because the problems with 5 are amplified. Quote: |
5) I've often seen advertised "rockabilly" basses for much lower prices than the rest of the sites products. What's the deal with this? Are they poorer quality? I would have thought they would be more expensive, because they would have to be built solid, what with the crazy **** rockabilly bassists do.
| You've got that backwards. They're cheap because the crazy crap rockabilly bassists do typically wreck up their instrument. Easier to ditch the bass you caved in by jumping on it the night before than paying a luthier to reconstruct it.
Of course, the cheap ones are usually made with plywood so they are more sturdy than a fully carved bass, so they are more durable, but most of what's used is because the bass doesn't need to have spectacular tone, so some thick strings on a bass-shaped object work just fine. | 
01-13-2009, 10:54 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Gaithersburg, Maryland | | | Caleb,
Welcome. My two cents as a relatively new thumper (less than two years) is to narrow your focus to one thing to get started, say bluegrass. You can branch out from there if you stick with the bass and have to desire to expand. I, for instance, started playing bluegrass and am now early in my jazz bass development phase.
Personally, I would stay away from nylon strings because they limit you to rockabilly and not much else. Going with gut, tape-wound strings or steel strings gives you more flexibility.
Finally, stay away from cheap Chinese basses sold on the Internet, don't buy a bass before you play it in person and -- if you do just one thing from this list, this is the one to do -- get a teacher. Learning proper technique right off the bat will make your bass easier and healthier to play. | 
01-13-2009, 02:38 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Western Sydney, Australia | | Quote:
Originally Posted by EggyToast You very rarely see 6 on a double bass because the problems with 5 are amplified. | Yeah, after I posted that I did a google search and they did indeed seem quite rare, so I tried to edit out that part of the post, but it seems it didn't end up happening... Quote: |
Originally Posted by EggyToast You've got that backwards. They're cheap because the crazy crap rockabilly bassists do typically wreck up their instrument. Easier to ditch the bass you caved in by jumping on it the night before than paying a luthier to reconstruct it.
Of course, the cheap ones are usually made with plywood so they are more sturdy than a fully carved bass, so they are more durable, but most of what's used is because the bass doesn't need to have spectacular tone, so some thick strings on a bass-shaped object work just fine. | Admittedly. If you wanted the lo-fi Elvis Presley sound anyway, why not?
@wineaux: Thank you. All is noted.  | 
01-13-2009, 03:09 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Western Sydney, Australia | | But seriously, about the Blonde Bass... I searched the forum and most of the results were about BGs.
I saw this one and I fell absolutely in love with it. It's just amazingly beautiful.
I'd absolutely love to own one, and would probably spend a decent amount of time looking at it and fondling it in addition to playing it.
Does anybody know anything about these blonde basses? Do they carry any particular stigma? Is it a solid wood top made from a different kind of wood, or just a particular colour of plywood? How do they sound in comparison to other DBs?
EDIT: That instrument just there is a "UB Standard SuperSwing Blonde Double Bass", and can be found at the very bottom of this page... http://www.uptonbass.com/catalog/adv...blonde&x=0&y=0
Last edited by CalebWilson : 01-13-2009 at 03:19 PM.
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01-13-2009, 03:19 PM
|  | Oracle, Ancient Order of Rass Hattur | | Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Connecticut | | | It's all about how the wood is finished. Blonde basses don't sound different. That picture looks like an Upton Superswing. Seems Upton could best answer your questions about it. | 
01-13-2009, 03:30 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Western Sydney, Australia | | Thank you.
If I can find one in Australia, awesome. I doubt it though. And shipping would probably cost almost as much as the bass. | 
01-13-2009, 03:35 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Baltimore | | Usually they're just not stained. Some people like them, although the reason you don't see many is because they typically cost more than a "normal" colored bass without sounding any better. It's like paying more for a bass that's painted a goofy color (not that blonde is goofy).
However, it sounds like you might be developing a fetish for blondes ;D
Seriously, Upton makes 'em, they actually have a couple types, and you can see that there's no real difference other than the varnish/finish. And they cost about $500 more than the regular laminate bass.
We're big proponents of buying a bass based on how it sounds (within one's budget, of course), so it doesn't really become a factor.
Also, I wouldn't be surprised if the wood darkens with age, like all wood does. Granted, that would be over a relatively long period of time, but it would likely be blondest when it's new. Unless the varnish blocks UV. | 
01-13-2009, 03:44 PM
|  | Oracle, Ancient Order of Rass Hattur | | Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Connecticut | | Quote:
Originally Posted by CalebWilson ...And shipping would probably cost almost as much as the bass. |
Nope. | 
01-13-2009, 03:56 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Western Sydney, Australia | | Quote:
Originally Posted by EggyToast Usually they're just not stained. Some people like them, although the reason you don't see many is because they typically cost more than a "normal" colored bass without sounding any better. It's like paying more for a bass that's painted a goofy color (not that blonde is goofy).
However, it sounds like you might be developing a fetish for blondes ;D
Seriously, Upton makes 'em, they actually have a couple types, and you can see that there's no real difference other than the varnish/finish. And they cost about $500 more than the regular laminate bass.
We're big proponents of buying a bass based on how it sounds (within one's budget, of course), so it doesn't really become a factor.
Also, I wouldn't be surprised if the wood darkens with age, like all wood does. Granted, that would be over a relatively long period of time, but it would likely be blondest when it's new. Unless the varnish blocks UV. | Thank you, egg. I like your answers.
Anyway, I'll probably get a regular one to begin with, then maybe later in my bassing I'll get a nice blonde to caress. Am I part of a niche market here? Don't many other people like it as much as I do? Owww. Well we'll see. 
Last edited by CalebWilson : 01-13-2009 at 03:59 PM.
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01-13-2009, 06:08 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Christchurch, New Zealand | | Since you're in Australia: http://www.thebassshop.com/ | 
01-13-2009, 06:50 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2008 Location: Perth Western Australia | | | Caleb wrote:
And shipping would probably cost almost as much as the bass.
If you're talking about shipping a bass from the US to Australia, then the above statement is potentially true. There may also be additional importation taxes and charges.
When I started on DB just over two years ago I purchased a reasonable instrument (for $2,000 AUD) and had half a dozen lessons. About 4 months ago, when I realised I had a passion for the instrument I bought myself a much better bass. Alternatively, you could look a hiring one for the first year. Playing BD is not easy, it's expensive, and lets face it, it's a lot easier to carry an electric bass guitar around, so you might change your mind in six months time.
Don't get too worried about which strings you start with - you are going to be on a steep learning curve and strings should be a minor concern at this stage. I'd recommend light gauge steel strings (solo are a good idea) as a good starting point. You probably won't be doing any slapping for the first year or so.
Good luck!
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Last edited by Dr Piggery : 01-13-2009 at 06:53 PM.
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01-13-2009, 07:25 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Western Sydney, Australia | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew McGregor | Lol what do you take me for? 
I've been there before, and the entry level is 2.2k-ish so I'll have to wait a little while longer. | 
01-13-2009, 07:27 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Christchurch, New Zealand | | | A newbie who might not have noticed them, that's all. Since you have, great. | 
01-13-2009, 07:50 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Western Sydney, Australia | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Piggery Caleb wrote:
And shipping would probably cost almost as much as the bass.
If you're talking about shipping a bass from the US to Australia, then the above statement is potentially true. There may also be additional importation taxes and charges.
When I started on DB just over two years ago I purchased a reasonable instrument (for $2,000 AUD) and had half a dozen lessons. About 4 months ago, when I realised I had a passion for the instrument I bought myself a much better bass. Alternatively, you could look a hiring one for the first year. Playing BD is not easy, it's expensive, and lets face it, it's a lot easier to carry an electric bass guitar around, so you might change your mind in six months time.
Don't get too worried about which strings you start with - you are going to be on a steep learning curve and strings should be a minor concern at this stage. I'd recommend light gauge steel strings (solo are a good idea) as a good starting point. You probably won't be doing any slapping for the first year or so.
Good luck! | Thank you for your thoughtful reply. And thank you for your agreeing with what I say. Doesn't happen often.  But unfortunately this is where the agreeing ends.
I thought about the BG once, but it's not what I wanna play. I'm more interested in Bluegrass, rockabilly, old-school blues and old-school Jazz (I've decided to save the jazz for further down the track), so DB seems the obvious option. And I know only 1 other person who plays DB, so I like to stand out in that respect.
I understand it'll be a while before I start slapping, but I think I'd prefer the thumpy tone of gut for the bluegrass, which is most certainly my main concern. It is important for me to sound like/similar to the recordings I'm copying off. | 
01-13-2009, 07:50 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Western Sydney, Australia | | Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew McGregor A newbie who might not have noticed them, that's all. Since you have, great. | Mhm. They're great people. Have you been there?
What style do you play? | 
01-13-2009, 09:18 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Portland, Oregon | | Quote:
Originally Posted by CalebWilson I've played DB for a grand total of about... ooh a hour [...] this time it's different. I didn't stick to the harmonica or ukulele [...] | Unless it's no biggie for you to drop a couple $K on an instrument, you could always go the route of getting a teacher and renting a bass, until you learn what you like. | 
01-13-2009, 11:10 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: May 2008 Location: Perth Western Australia | | | Caleb wrote:
"I understand it'll be a while before I start slapping, but I think I'd prefer the thumpy tone of gut for the bluegrass, which is most certainly my main concern. It is important for me to sound like/similar to the recordings I'm copying off."
Lots of bluegrass bassists don't use gut. While guts have their advantages relative to steel strings they are expensive, wear out quicker, temperamental to temperature and humity changes, and a lot fatter which will caused added difficulty for a newbie. You gotta realise that only about 10% of "your sound" comes from your bass and strings - the other 90% in in your hands i.e. how you play that thing. That may be an exaggeration, but you get the idea!
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My instrument touches the ground!
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01-13-2009, 11:23 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Gaithersburg, Maryland | | | Dr. Pig,
Good to see you here. When I saw Caleb was also from the Land of Oz, I thought I should put him in touch with you, but you went and put yourself in touch with him!
Caleb, one other possibility for the thump without the work of keeping up with guts is tape-wrapped strings. I use the LaBella 7710s on my '42 Kay. There are other wrapped strings as well. I use steel strings on my other two basses, but the Kay is my main bluegrass squeeze.
Good luck in the search. Let us know how you make out -- and be sure to post pictures when you score! | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | |
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