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Basses [DB] Discussion on the instrument: double bass, string bass, contrabass, bass viol, acoustic bass, upright bass, standup bass, bass fiddle, bass violin, doghouse bass, bull fiddle... :)


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  #21  
Old 09-18-2008, 02:46 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Richmond VA
I've been playing a lot of basses lately and I think that the shen plys are great basses. Mike shank has some that are great. Just make sure you py the $200 or whatever to get it set up really well. Also, I'd get a full circle pickup. Good luck
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  #22  
Old 09-20-2008, 03:08 PM
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Jim Lownds played my Eberle plywood I got from Ideal Music and loves it. I paid $950. Played 2 or 3 Wilfers and 2 or 3 Eberles, pizzicato only, and the Eberle won. I tried a fully carved Wilfer, but I wanted plywood (I play outdoors in SW Florida), and the Eberle had way more volume, anyway. Of the Eberles, the 2 plys sounded the same, so I picked the one with gorgeous flame on the back. Mine has a date stamp of 1993 way down on the bottom inside. Ebony fingerboard, which I wanted, and the set-up feels fine. Nice bridge. Helicore Orchestras were on it; I like them. I tried some Super Nils and got bad blisters from the round-wound; also, I found them to be flabby - big ugh. I am new to bass and learning, though, so perhaps other ply Eberle owners will speak up.

Last edited by Elisa : 09-20-2008 at 03:14 PM.
  #23  
Old 09-21-2008, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Bass View Post
DRURB must have fallen on his head.
No--been busy thinking about this!
  #24  
Old 09-22-2008, 05:19 AM
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NOT for SW FL Humidity

No matter how beautiful, you would NOT want a fully-carved bass outdoors down here!!!
  #25  
Old 09-22-2008, 07:36 AM
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No matter how beautiful, you would NOT want a fully-carved bass outdoors down here!!!
I agree! I don't even like taking a carved bass outdoors here in Connecticut unless the weather is "just right." I grew up in south Florida so, believe me, I know what you mean!
  #26  
Old 09-22-2008, 07:41 PM
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Thumbs up Eberle Plywood

Quote:
Originally Posted by Elisa View Post
... Mine has a date stamp of 1993 way down on the bottom inside. Ebony fingerboard, which I wanted, and the set-up feels fine. Nice bridge. Helicore Orchestras were on it; I like them...
I bought an Eberle plywood from Ideal in January. Built the same year and purchased with the same strings, basic setup, plus I had them add an adjustable bridge. I just had to get the bridge in the right place and file down the nut slots a little on the E and A strings, but otherwise it was in playable condition after shipping to Washington State in the biggest box of packing peanuts you've ever seen. You can also get them without setup for $850 and have a luthier do a better setup to your spec's.

Played many Englehardt's and some Shen's and Christopher plys and hybrids before buying and think it was a very good deal for the $ and had the most fundamental "thump" of any I played. Maybe not the best Bluegrass bass for under $2500, but with adjustable bridge, shipping, a bow from Upton and a bag from (all hail) Bob G., I was up and running for about $1500.

As a newbie with the bow (I just use it to work on intonation and rarely in jams) I like the medium helicores too though the bass is very nasal above D on the G string. I didn't bow any plywoods while shopping so don't know if that's typical of plywood or a setup issue... seems like you'd have to have the soundpost in there tighter than optimum to ship 2500 miles without the strings on it without the soundpost falling over (ya think? ) I'll also have a pro setup done eventually and am thinking Evah Pirazzi for strings, but in the meantime I've got something decent to learn on and its loud enough for big old-time fiddler and celtic jams.

The only problem I've had with the Eberle (her name's Diedre) is the tailpiece hanger wire broke a couple of weeks ago where the ends are twisted around each other behind the tailpiece. I got 3 ft of 7/64" Amsteel cord from West Marine for $ 0.73 a foot, enough to do it twice in case i messed up, and tied it on with a carrick bend knot. It has been a week now and she's just now settling down - this knot is not supposed to slip, but I think it takes awhile to get to maximum tightness and also for the cord to "stretch" (it's not supposed to stretch, so maybe it's the braid compressing, but it definitely was getting longer)
Start with the string afterlength a bit long, say 8 1/2 inches, so when the cord lengthens you will wind up at 8 1/4 (the magic 1/6th of total string length or 2 octaves and a 4th length for the Eberle scale) After 4 days I had to adjust the knot, but a few days after that played a 6 hr jam, was very pleased with the improvement in sound and feel of the action, and wasn't retuning any more than I would playing outside with the temperature changing. I've seen TB postings of up to 5 weeks for these amsteel hangers to completely stabilize, so don't expect to swap it out and play a gig tomorrow. If you don't have the patience, the steel aircraft cable is a good way to go and is easier to get adjusted to the right length.

I'd recommend anyone with a "coat hanger wire" tailpiece hanger get rid of it ASAP and replace it with Amsteel, Clef, Pecanic, whatever brand flexible hanger, or aircraft steel cable that lets the tailpiece move and resonate with the bass. The sound and action were both noticeably improved for very little expense.
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Last edited by shadygrove : 09-22-2008 at 07:43 PM. Reason: typo
  #27  
Old 09-22-2008, 07:58 PM
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there is a used upton hybrid for sale in the classified ads. this is what i use for bluegrass. have mine strung with evah's with a oliv g. i take mine outdoors all the time and i live in south georgia. have not noticed the bass taking any damage from the humidity yet, but its only been 2 summers.
  #28  
Old 09-23-2008, 01:00 AM
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Hey Jeff, when I multiply 8 1/4" by 6 I get a 49 1/2" string length!

You need to divide your string length by 6 to derive the afterlength that way. Its probably around 7".
  #29  
Old 09-23-2008, 11:50 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2008
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Jake,

My total string length is about 49.5", or 6 times as long as the current afterlength of 8.25". So what I hear you saying is it should be 1/6 of the nut to bridge scale of 41.5 " or 6.9" ?
I'm curious now to compare the tones and see how far off i am from that 2 octaves and a 4th. It's playing OK with no wolftones, so I must've got lucky with that wrong length .

Dang, and i got that 8.25" and 1/6 calculation from TalkBass too...just goes to show it's a little like wikipedia here with lots of different ideas and opinions on how things should be done. Thanks for catching that before I spread bad info to the next person.
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  #30  
Old 09-23-2008, 12:43 PM
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I just tune the afterlengths to 2 octaves and a fourth - the D string afterlength is the same note as the G string harmonic at the 5th position and so on. Easy.
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