Making an EUB

ricobasso · #1 01-18-2007, 07:30 AM

Hi All,

This is my 1st Post. I'm making my own EUB. I want something smaller than my 3/4 DB but I want that acoustic sound that you can't get from sticks, etc.

Is anyone out there making or made their own EUB? I could post some pics of my work in progress if anyone is interested.

(Plenty of mistakes to learn from

)

all the best

RB

ricobasso · #2 01-30-2007, 05:26 AM

I should have mentioned that this EUB will have a removeable neck.

Here is a picture of my starting point; a neck from Bob Gollihur and a neck-block-blank (bass builder's tonguetwister

) built up from whatever large bits of wood were to hand.

More soon. (I need to sort out my photos)

ToneRanger · #3 01-30-2007, 05:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ricobasso

...but I want that acoustic sound that you can't get from sticks, etc.

I'm interested to know what sort of body you're going to build. Seems to me much of the acoustic character is in the flexibility of the big hollow box, which accounts for the short sustain and explosive dynamics (whereas solid EUBs tend to have more sustain and a compressed sound). To get 'big box' character in a compact body I think you need to build in a lot of flexibility somehow.

ricobasso · #4 02-01-2007, 05:22 AM

I agree about the box being important for the "acoustic sound".

The idea is to have a more or less full length but narrow body. The width would be about the same as between the "f" holes of a 3/4 bass. The plate resonance of the top could be kept low by increasing the edge flexibility while increasing the mass toward the centre; like tuning a harmonica reed (but in 2D rather than 1D)

. Additionally, it would have a conventional bass bar and sound post. I think it could work with the electronics taking care of the reduced output from the decrease in plate surface area.

ricobasso · #5 03-30-2008, 02:59 AM

Well here it is finally in some sort of shape. I'm very pleased that it's got the attack and decay and woody sound of an upright. I did not want a dead stick. Next job is fitting the pickups and I still have to decide what to do about the saddle.

Kev2007 · #6 03-30-2008, 05:46 PM

Hey, nice job. How does the neck detach?

What kind of wood did you end up using, anyway? Is there any finish on that?

Wanting the same result as you, I tried an Eminance, but it didn't do it for me. I like the design (and real wood) of the Kolstein Travel Bass, but it's a little out of my price range (plus it doesn't really seem to be that portable. Same with the Czech-Ease)

Any other mid-build pics you'd care to post would be cool.

ricobasso · #7 04-01-2008, 04:38 AM

thanks, i'll try to post some more pix when i get back home.
the neck heel slides in and out on the dovetail joint. there is a t-nut under fingerboard opposite the heel via which you can bolt the neck to the thick button. then there is 2nd t-nut on the inside of th button which is for the ejector bolt.

the finish is danish oil which i will wax later. i don't like spraying.

Kev2007 · #8 04-01-2008, 06:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ricobasso

then there is 2nd t-nut on the inside of th button which is for the ejector bolt.

Ejector Bolt! I like the sound of that!

synaesthesia · #9 05-26-2008, 04:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ricobasso

I agree about the box being important for the "acoustic sound".

The idea is to have a more or less full length but narrow body. The width would be about the same as between the "f" holes of a 3/4 bass. The plate resonance of the top could be kept low by increasing the edge flexibility while increasing the mass toward the centre; like tuning a harmonica reed (but in 2D rather than 1D)

. Additionally, it would have a conventional bass bar and sound post. I think it could work with the electronics taking care of the reduced output from the decrease in plate surface area.

Is your top plate ply and the sides bent ply?

ricobasso · #10 06-11-2008, 05:18 AM

It's all plywood. The top is grade AAA birch and I cut it so there was a symetric V pattern visible from the front. The back is veneered with fiddleback(stripey) maple.

The sides are laminated with layers of very thin 1mm ply and the same maple veneer as the back. Lamination was done in a mould and I would not do it this way ever this again. The mould has to be more accurate than you might think and the clamping is a nightmare. On the first side, which used a smaller (not full width mould) the layers are not 100% stuck and the side veneer has many splits

. I then increased the side mould to full width and got better results with the second side. All in all, I think heat bending would have been better and quicker.

Dave Muscato · #11 06-11-2008, 05:22 AM

How's it sound?

BigBeatNut · #12 06-11-2008, 06:54 AM

Nice work. Keep us posted ... I'm especially interested in sound clips when you're ready with them.

synaesthesia · #13 06-18-2008, 09:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ricobasso

It's all plywood. The top is grade AAA birch and I cut it so there was a symetric V pattern visible from the front. The back is veneered with fiddleback(stripey) maple.

The sides are laminated with layers of very thin 1mm ply and the same maple veneer as the back. Lamination was done in a mould and I would not do it this way ever this again. The mould has to be more accurate than you might think and the clamping is a nightmare. On the first side, which used a smaller (not full width mould) the layers are not 100% stuck and the side veneer has many splits

. I then increased the side mould to full width and got better results with the second side. All in all, I think heat bending would have been better and quicker.

Thanks for that. Made plans to make something like yours, effectively a full upright but streamlined body. Am taking my time with a build, but probably make a solid structure with a somewhat pliable surface under the bridge, sot of like a Merchant Vertical.

ricobasso · #14 06-20-2008, 07:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kev2007

Ejector Bolt! I like the sound of that!

Here are pictures of the ejector bolt sequence and a the final version closed. I decided against a big handle and went for a recessed Allen cap head bolt.

I may get round to sound clips soon.

rgarcia26 · #15 07-17-2008, 06:35 AM

Hi guys Im working on making a EUB like the ebass http://ebass.nl/site/index.php?pagefile=home and I haven’t decided yet which type of wood to use for the body and its very hard to find also, I'm thinking on using mahogany, any opinion or help?? I live in Florida Miami...!!! tips are welcome this is my first time!!!

Rebop · #16 07-17-2008, 08:41 AM

rgarcia,

Here in south Florida you can find many types of wood very easily. (Think of the yacht/boat building industry we have here.) I would recommend oak, teak or mahogany. Easy to find and it doesn't seem like you need very much of it so it will be fairly inexpensive. If I was building an EUB I would probably just go with a 2x6 of pine from Home Depot, but that's just me.

rgarcia26 · #17 07-17-2008, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rebop

rgarcia,

Here in south Florida you can find many types of wood very easily. (Think of the yacht/boat building industry we have here.) I would recommend oak, teak or mahogany. Easy to find and it doesn't seem like you need very much of it so it will be fairly inexpensive. If I was building an EUB I would probably just go with a 2x6 of pine from Home Depot, but that's just me.

well I havent be able to find a local Store to get some Mahogany of teak, just wood for building materials, but let me tell you 2x6 pine from home depot do you think that could work fine Lol... well i will take a look is very cheap but those 2x6 arent that straight...

Rebop · #18 07-17-2008, 02:25 PM

rgarcia,

Here. It's a little drive from where you are but it may be worth it. They are located in Oakland Park.

http://www.constantines.com/index.as...S&Category=135

powerbass · #19 07-18-2008, 10:36 AM

I would avoid teak, it is very oily, does not glue well and it will dull your tools in minutes - planer and joiner machines must use carbide tipped blades when using teak

Rebop · #20 07-18-2008, 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by powerbass

I would avoid teak, it is very oily, does not glue well and it will dull your tools in minutes - planer and joiner machines must use carbide tipped blades when using teak

Forgot about that part.

A friend of mine ran into that problem when he made a Les Paul style body for a Strat neck. Also, since it was a bolt-on he didn't glue anything. It did look nice though.