Sanding the back of the neck

[ChasFL]

What is the premise about exposing the raw wood on the back of the neck. Is it so that it doesn't have a sticky feel?

I play one of those funky looking Chinese Sojing EUB's that look like a big G-clef and it didn't come with the back of the neck sanded down, it is painted and laquered like the rest of the body.

It does have a stickier feel rather than the standard sanded down necks I was used to as on the doghouse bass and the baby bass, but I've never done anything to this one. But maybe now I might get it sanded down just to make it feel smoother to play.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to best bring a painted/laquered neck down to that condition?

Thanks.

[Francois Blais]

I'd bring the instrument to a qualified luthier to get the job done right.
Just my $0.02.


Regards,
François

[ChasFL]

Thanks François, that's what I plan on doing, (bringing it to a luthier). It doesn't sound like something I'd want to attempt and then get it wrong beyond being able to repair it.

So is the premise behind leaving the back of the neck raw so that it feels slicker than having it painted and laquered so that it doesn't feels sticky and slow down the hand motion moving up and down the neck?

[CatfishStudios]

Guys I know who play upright..do it so the neck feels less sticky..smooth as butter...I have an old Japanese strat that the neck finish was just to sticky for my liking..I took the steel wool to it and did basically the same thing...

[SBassman]

BTW, what do you think of those basses?

[hdiddy]

No, DIY. I've done this multiple times now. Very easy.

Just use #0000 steel wool. Go with the grain and be careful not to scratch up anywhere you don't want scuffed. Get it to the finish you want. Then cover it with linseed oil (not the boiled one). You need to oil other wise it'll get gummy and might affect the wood itself.

[ChasFL]

Originally Posted by SBassman

BTW, what do you think of those basses?

I had to bring the action way down when it first came in by taking down the base of the bridge and taking some off the top, but since then, it plays great.

As I'm 6'4", I prefer a bigger body in an EUB, which is why I like that it's equivalent to the size of a Double bass rather than a 3/4. I played an Ampeg baby bass in the past as well as standard DB's back in school and different orchestras. I've never been a big fan of the "neck on a stand" EUB designs.

I mix it up during the shows, I play the Sojing for about 6 songs during the night, I also play a Michael Kelly Acoustic bass for a few but my main is a Modulus Genesis 5-string EB.

But the Sojing gets a lot of attention because of its unique design and that they are not seen out that often.

[ChasFL]

Originally Posted by hdiddy

No, DIY. I've done this multiple times now. Very easy.

Just use #0000 steel wool. Go with the grain and be careful not to scratch up anywhere you don't want scuffed. Get it to the finish you want. Then cover it with linseed oil (not the boiled one). You need to oil other wise it'll get gummy and might affect the wood itself.

Thanks hdiddy. Yeah, sounds like heavy taping up the side of the fretboard to keep that from getting scuffed and then just paying close attention while doing it should do the trick.

Think I'll give it a shot. Since it's a DB size neck, there's a lot of wood to work with.

Thanks again.

[bassbo]

I have used 400 grit wet/dry sand paper with the grain to remove the varnish Then 500 grit, then 600 Polish and maintain it with 1000 grit. To maintain the silky feel, clean it with a weak solution of white vinegar, and finish with a cloth dampened with water, not very wet though. Dry it right away and use the 1000 grit to polish again.