Up for sale is my Peavey Classic 400. I hate to do it but I'm not in a band and it's sitting unused. I'd rather pass it along to someone who's going to use this monster the way it should be used! I got it from a TB'er back in May after a LONG search for one.
Here's some info from the previous owner:
"About the mods -- most were done in collaboration with (or at the suggestion of) Bobby Baldwin, Peavey's chief bass amp designer.
Bobby is on TalkBass and he is a GOLD MINE of info -- he was able to tell me all about the design and testing of the amp, and his recommendations and guesses have always been SPOT ON.
First (and most significantly) the amp was retubed with JJ KT88's. Bobby recommended these because the original spec Chinese 6550 power tubes had an output impedance unlike typical 6550's and the output transformer was built to work with them -- so most 6550s really can't generate the full 400 watts. But this one...when I retubed and rebiased the amp, I measured a smooth 40v sine wave at 40 Hz into 4 ohms -- that means rated power at the fundamental frequency of a low E at 400 watts RMS.
When I retubed, I also replaced the driver tube with a balanced and gain matched 12AT7 -- this ensures that the power tubes are being fed a symmetrical signal to get the most clean output possible.
I've also done a lot of experimentation with the preamp tubes. What I've found is that the Clean channel is very bright, so I used a slightly "dark" sounding tube in V1 to tame it down a bit -- a JJ 12AX7 (ECC83S). I really like a Sovtek 12AX7LPS in V2 to smooth out the overdrive on the Crunch channel. For the rest of them, I used TungSols for low noise, reliability, and lack of microphonics.
I added power tube retainers to the amp to keep those big KT88s in place. I attached the retainers with stainless steel screws and locknuts--secured with Loctite to ensure that they wouldn't get loose and drop into the chassis.
The other MAJOR change I made to the amp was to make the bias adjustment accessible without having to remove the amp from the case. Considering that the chassis weighs 85 lbs, this makes the amp MUCH easier to service. When I moved the pot, I replaced it with a Bourns precision 10-turn potentiometer, so that you have a lot more control and fine tuning when you adjust the bias. It also tends to "drift" less.
For my own preference, I installed a Neutrik Speakon jack -- they handle a lot more power than 1/4" jacks. The only downside is that you can't wire a Speakon to short the output, so you have to ensure that you turn the amp off (or at least to standby) whenever you switch cabs, but that's a good habit to get into regardless.
Another recommendation from Bobby was to remove the cooling fan. He said that it just causes vibration that messes with the tube filaments, and it made a lot of noise. With the open front and back like mine has, the tubes get plenty of passive ventilation.
The open front panel was another mod, and rather than the original "diamond pattern" grille, I had a custom one made that matched the back grille.
To minimize vibration transferred from the speaker cab back into the amp, I replaced the "feet" with 6 oversized (like hockey pucks) feet.
I also put rubber feet on the short edge of the amp by the power transformer, so if you need to (briefly) carry the amp like a suitcase, you can set it down without getting it dirty.
There were a couple other minor mods that escape me, but those are the ones that most effect the tone of the amp.
The retube cost about $350, and it shouldn't need another retube for years; the preamp tubes can last for decades, and the power tubes haven't seen that much use, and have been checked periodically to ensure that the bias hasn't drifted (it hasn't)."
I'm super bummed to let this amp go but the music scene where I moved blows and I could use the cash. I'm in Fort Myers, Florida. I could drive an hour or so to meet a buyer. NO SHIPPING.
I may consider partial trades for a newer lightly used PS3 or a PS4 at retail value.