Ok, Guys and Gals. Here's the deal. At any time I may pull this listing. This amp means a lot to me, but financial situations dictate that I need to let it go. I'll be as detailed as possible.
I ordered this in the fall of 1995, and even though Walter was in his "off-season" from building amps, he was kind enough to build this and I had it in 2 weeks. And I have used it on every gig ever since. I'd estimate about 3000 gigs on it. Jazz, rock, Reggae, everything. It has "that sound" that only a Walter Woods does.
It is not mint cosmetically. There are SLIGHT scratching in the black paint on the corners of the side edges. As pictured, a couple of the corners of the side wings are slightly bent in. I have no idea how that happened, but I can say it was early in its life when I was carrying it in a soft case. One of the spools for the power cord is very slightly bent, too. Functionally, these do not affect the amp whatsoever. The power cord itself has some twist folding in the outside sheath in the last few inches, but none of it is cracked.
A few quirks for full disclosure (and I have talked to Walter several times about these):
-Channel 1's PreGain and Master pots have a particular spot that is kind of scratchy, ONLY WHEN TURNING PAST ONE PARTICULAR POINT WHILE PUTTING SIGNAL THROUGH. They do not make noise while set at that point, and they are not noisy to turn when you are not playing. Walter says that happens to a lot of pots from any manufacturer, and detailed how to clean them. I usually turn them a few times at the beginning of a gig to work out the crud and then it's fine.
-When powering up, if you have switched from bridge to stereo or vice versa, you will not get output occasionally. Walter says it has to do with the design of the power supply, and re-routing voltage. He says to power down and back up, and/or turn the master down very low, turn the PreGain up, and give your bass a good whump! That "jolts" the power supply, and then it's fine. Ive dealt with that MAYBE a dozen times.
-As with all Woods' amps, mind the power-downs. It takes 5 seconds or more to bleed off power, and you'll hear an audible "pfffft" from your speaker. So wait for that plus a second or two before unplugging your bass or powering back on. Powering on takes a second or 2 after you push the button and you will hear a click when the voltage is spooled up. Walter says all that is normal, and says it is very important to wait 10 seconds or so after turning it off before turning it back on. He likens it to a computer bleeding off RAM when you shut it down.
-and lastly, the XLR out, just don't use it. Walter himself admits it was a bad design. I'm not sure if he still takes it back to "upgrade" that to a functional 1/4" line level output, but I always went direct before the signal even reached my amp anyways. Walter has been known for his exclusive designs, but during a phone conversation, he alluded that an experienced tech with transformer know-how and a multimeter would be able to modify the XLR output. I never bothered. Every Woods amp that I know of is like that, before he went to the line level outs. The effects loop send works wonderfully.
This amp has 2 independent input channels, spec'd identically, and 2 independent power amps (when in stereo mode) Each input channel has a pan. So it is literally 2 mixable amps in one. Each amp can power a separate cab, and each channel can feed a separate amp, or anything can be blended any way. Some guys blend a mic and a pickup on an upright or 2 pickups, go true stereo, use 2 instruments but only one speaker, etc.
In Bridge mode, essentially it reverses the phase of one of the power amps (not sure which one). I had a special bridging cable made out of 8 gauge wire (meant for car batteries) and switchcraft jacks (pictured, and will be included). MAKING SURE THE SWITCH IS SET TO BRIDGE, you plug the 2 smaller jacks into the 2 power amp outputs and the big end into your cab. If you do this in stereo mode and power up, you will receive an immediate short and meltdown. I mind my bridge/stereo switch EVERY single time I power the amp on. Bridging delivers every bit of 700 watts into 8 ohms, or 1000 into 4. Stereo mode delivers 225/350 per side. Recent bench tests I've seen on this forum confirms those numbers. I have blown speakers in the past. For comparison, the popular "blue light" versions are 1200 watts into 4 ohms, and are mono only.
I think all the other controls are self-explanatory, but feel free to ask, and I'll describe the best I can.
Some have described an engineering shift in the mid to late 90's that resulted in less low end from these amps. To my humble ears, I'd say that this was built before that. The low end is controlled, but it is fat, warm, mid-present, and clear.
This amp has barely ever broken a sweat. If you've read down this far, then you probably already known what these amps sound and function like. It has been absolutely flawless, never missed a beat, and never left me wanting for power or tone.
$1200, shipped and insured to the lower 48.