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03-24-2008, 05:50 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: New York City | | | DR Lo-Riders
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After digging in the TB archives for a good hour or two and hearing of all the DR Lo-Riders recommendations, I'm convinced that I should give these a shot. However, these strings come in two different versions, stainless steel and nickel; and not many in previous posts specified which one they use. So, I'm rather unsure of whether I should go for the stainless steel or whether I should choose the nickel instead. Thus, any recommendations or experience with these two? I have a G&L Tribute L-2500 Premium and am looking for strings that offer a very growly sound while retaining clarity, definition, and a reasonable dose of highs. Also, if possible, it would be nice to have something that goes easy on the fingers and, of course, doesn't damage or wear away at the frets. | 
03-24-2008, 06:31 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Torrance, CA | | | If you want it easier on your hands and frets then go with nickels. They won't last as long as steels though. That's the general consensus. I don't know how either sounds so I can't help you in that department. | 
03-24-2008, 08:02 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: San Diego Ca | | I've been using the nickel Lo-Riders on my MIA L2500 since November. Still sound fine after four months.
I'm using a 120 B instead of the normal 125 or 130 only because I felt it might give me a bit less boomyness in our sanctuary with a high ceiling. With all the lows that the L2500 hass, haven't lost anything with the B. There's enough highs and lows to share!
HTH
Larry Quote:
Originally Posted by ElizabethC After digging in the TB archives for a good hour or two and hearing of all the DR Lo-Riders recommendations, I'm convinced that I should give these a shot. However, these strings come in two different versions, stainless steel and nickel; and not many in previous posts specified which one they use. So, I'm rather unsure of whether I should go for the stainless steel or whether I should choose the nickel instead. Thus, any recommendations or experience with these two? I have a G&L Tribute L-2500 Premium and am looking for strings that offer a very growly sound while retaining clarity, definition, and a reasonable dose of highs. Also, if possible, it would be nice to have something that goes easy on the fingers and, of course, doesn't damage or wear away at the frets. |
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03-25-2008, 12:42 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Adelaide, South Australia | | | I've used the steels and they're wonderful. I can't imagine the nickels being any less good. They have excellent durability. | 
03-25-2008, 04:21 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Cookeville, TN | | | I used them on my Fender MIA Jazz for 15 years. It's only recently that I've noticed fret wear. Of course, I'd rather not deal with re-fretting, so I've switched to nickels. I didn't like the Lo-rider nickels, and have D'Addarios XL's on it now.... they don't sound bad, but I've had real problems with D'Addario's consistancy from string to string, and set to set over the years. I'm going to try the TI SA's next.
I did have a set of SS Lo-riders on my L2000, and they sounded fabulous. If you can live with some fretwear after 10+ years of use, then by all means, they are awesome strings. They definitely aren't hard on your fingers. After the initial zing wears out of them, they hit a sweet spot, and stay like that for a good while.
Ljazz | 
03-25-2008, 05:31 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Lancaster, PA | | | SS are crisper, Nickels are round & fat. I love both, but tend to prefer the feel of Nickels.
__________________ 4 strings + 27 tubes = bliss | 
03-25-2008, 07:55 PM
| | | | As a compromise, i am using FatBeams in the Marcus Sig gauge on both my L2K's. The set on my maple board 96 is about 10 months old, and the strings still sound great, and have lost a bit of that top end zing and harshness, but still have a ton of bite and punch- really cuts through. My 97 rosewood board has a set that is about a month old, and they are just starting to get to that point as well. i don't think i could go back to any other brand of strings now- the sound and feel is just soooo good!
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03-25-2008, 07:57 PM
|  | Registered User | | Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: S.E. Connecticut, USA | | | I once bought DR LR Nickels by mistake. Turned out that they lasted longer than most stainless I tried. | 
03-26-2008, 01:06 AM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Adelaide, South Australia | | Second the FatBeams for sure. Really really good. Quote:
Originally Posted by stingray666 As a compromise, i am using FatBeams in the Marcus Sig gauge on both my L2K's. The set on my maple board 96 is about 10 months old, and the strings still sound great, and have lost a bit of that top end zing and harshness, but still have a ton of bite and punch- really cuts through. My 97 rosewood board has a set that is about a month old, and they are just starting to get to that point as well. i don't think i could go back to any other brand of strings now- the sound and feel is just soooo good! | | 
03-27-2008, 06:15 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Roswell, GA | | | I've ordered 2 sets of DR Strings Lo Rider MH5-45 45-125 for my G&L L-2500 USA
Besides bought 2 sets of DR Strings Hi Beam MR5-45 45-125.
Never listened for this strings, but have heard positive opinions.
I'll compare both sets and maybe upload samples of each other. | 
03-29-2008, 11:30 AM
|  | Smile more, ok? Staff Reviewer; Bass Gear Magazine Moderator | | Join Date: May 2004 Location: Columbia MO | | | EC; as noted already, the ss will have crisper highs, and maybe more finger and fret noise, depending on your technique.
The nickels have bright enough tone for everything except "gen-u-wine marcus miller slap tones"
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03-29-2008, 04:57 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: New York City | | | Thanks for the responses!
I've decided to first try out the Stainless Steel DR Lo-Riders. From what I've read on TB, the SS has a tighter B string and is a bit more "growly," which is what I'm after. Now, I just need to figure out whether I should get the set with the .125 B string or the .130 B string. On MusiciansFriend/Guitar Center and Music 123, they list the set with the .130 as back ordered; and some other websites don't even carry the .130 set -- just the .125 set.
Therefore, more questions: What's the difference in sound between these two particular guages? Some .130s tend to sound muddy and not very articulate while other sound tight and huge. Is this the case with the DR Lo-Rider .130s? Would it be worth it for me to wait for the .130 instead of go for the .125? | 
03-30-2008, 05:04 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Roswell, GA | | | I play .125 (but Hi-Beam set) and very plume, sound bright, rich and growly | 
04-04-2008, 04:53 PM
| | Registered User | | Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Ferndale, MI, USA | | | I use the .130 on my Wal fretless and it works well for me; I don't THINK there is a "mud factor" and my thought on this gauge was the tension: keeping it as much in line with the other strings as possible.
the DR Low Rider Nickels do seem to last well on the fretless, but the last couple of 4 string sets on my Trib L-2000 have had the E strings die much sooner than the other strings and I don't just play a lot on the E or anything, and probably go about half and half on the time playing both basses live.
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