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  #1  
Old 11-23-2006, 08:52 AM
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Question G&L L2000 mods.

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Hi all,
I have a L2000 that i just bought and i really like it. There are a couple of things i'd like to change if possible. I find that the bass and treble knobs don't have much effect until they're turned almost all the way. Anyone know if i can change out the pots to give me more range of throw on these? Also, i'd like to somehow incorperate a mid boost/cut control as there are times when the sound is too agressive for what i'm playing so i'd love to be able to dial out some of the mids. I also have a Musicman sterling and absolutely love the electronics on it...but the tone isn't as "detailed" as my G&L... guess i'd like the best of both worlds
Thanks in advance for any ideas!!!
peace!
bluegrassman@charter.net
  #2  
Old 11-23-2006, 11:00 AM
lug lug is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leftybassman
Hi all,
I have a L2000 that i just bought and i really like it. There are a couple of things i'd like to change if possible. I find that the bass and treble knobs don't have much effect until they're turned almost all the way. Anyone know if i can change out the pots to give me more range of throw on these? Also, i'd like to somehow incorperate a mid boost/cut control as there are times when the sound is too agressive for what i'm playing so i'd love to be able to dial out some of the mids. I also have a Musicman sterling and absolutely love the electronics on it...but the tone isn't as "detailed" as my G&L... guess i'd like the best of both worlds
Thanks in advance for any ideas!!!
peace!
bluegrassman@charter.net
That's odd, mine a quite linear compared to almost any other bass I own. They are "cut only" passive controls (they work in passive mode) and the preamp acts more as a line booster. I agree on the aggressive issue, it's sometimes hard to tame the bass down. I usually just switch basses at that point but you have to very aggresive basses to start with.
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  #3  
Old 11-23-2006, 08:42 PM
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That makes sense with the whole passive thing, but even still i only get about 1/3 of the bass or treble controls that is "usable"... aside from that there is no change in the sound, passive or active. Do you think if i changed the pots to say 500K that give me more throw? I'm also wondering if i should consider trying a flat wound string to tame things down a bit(?).
Thanks for your the help!

Peace!
  #4  
Old 11-23-2006, 09:19 PM
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The stock pots are 1 meg for the bass cut and 250K for the treble cut. I changed my treble cut knob to a 500K, but that means that there is actually more treble when the knob is full up (a 250K has twice as much resistance even when full open)- basically, the last half of the travel on the 500K pot will resemble the full range of a 250K pot. To use a 500K bass cut knob would be equivalent to cutting out the first half of the adjustment on the bass knob- meaning that a 500K pot full open would start at the same place as a 1 Meg (stock) pot turned to the center.

I notice a large difference in sound over the entire spectrum of travel on both knobs, both as they were originally and with the 500K treble pot- I don't know why yours isn't so obvious? I think rather than change the pots, you might want to try changing the values of the capacitors- a .1uf capacitor on the treble pot would cut a much larger chunk of frequencies faster than the stock .047 (I think thats the stock value )-maybe that would work better for you (and would be a cheaper experiment). I personally always wanted more treble on mine, but everybody's different! I don't know about good values for the bass capacitor, I would try changing the treble first and see how that worked!

As far as the aggressive nature- many people have had good luck lowering the pickups substantially- ( I personally rely on the aggressive nature!).

Karl
  #5  
Old 11-24-2006, 12:21 AM
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Passive mid range control

http://www.guitar-mod.com/rg_passive.html
  #6  
Old 11-24-2006, 09:27 PM
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thanks for the address on the mid control.... i'm gonna see what they can do for a G&L that has both active and passive.

peace!
  #7  
Old 11-25-2006, 04:10 AM
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I had a similar passive knob as that varitone on a vintage Ibanez that I used to own- it was amazing how many different sounds could be found! It should work in either an active or passive bass- the current difference is really not drastic enough to cause any damage to the parts.

The only downside I see is finding room for another pot- the control they sell has a dual purpose as a treble cut/ mid cut, but can only do one at a time which may or may not work for you - if you want to cut both treble and midrange, you can just do as I suggested before and switch the capacitor on the treble cut pot to a higher value like .1uf- which would cut both treble and midrange to some degree! I've contemplated getting a stacked pot for bass and treble so I could add another pot (for seperate volumes for each pickup), but the only people that sell a 250K/1Meg or 500K/1Meg stacked pot (that I've found) charge some $40-50 for one if I remember- you could get a 500K/500K stacked pot and have treble cut and volume on one pot- that would be the most practical way to have a 3 band passive EQ, and would also be absolutely nuts IMO! Therefore I love it!

Good luck,
Karl
  #8  
Old 11-25-2006, 08:40 AM
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Lightbulb

So Karl, you've thought about this extensively i see You've got some great ideas though! Another possible option i thought about was ripping out the electronics and replacing them with the same system they use in the Musicman Sterling bass. I'm amazed at how much tonal variation you can get out of the MM's with just one pickup! However i do like the mellower passive side of the G&L too, but I think i would probably be able to achieve that tone as well with the Musicman system.

Peace!
  #9  
Old 11-25-2006, 08:27 PM
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I actually did the opposite recently with my L2500- I took out the active preamp entirely and used the extra switch so I could do series/ single coil/ parallel seperately for each pickup (I had previously modified the existing series/ parallel switch by exchanging it for a 3 way with the single coil addition). I also changed the stock 250K treble cut with a 500K push-pull pot- when pulled, the series mode becomes "single coil with bass boost" like on older L2000s and L1000s (when pushed, it is the stock series mode)- I almost always use that mode now! (I can see why L1000 owners are so fanatic!- except I can turn on both pickups and it is hum- cancelling, which they can't do!). The 500K treble pot allows more treble through than the 250K pot when open more than halfway and this is especially useful in "single coil w/ bass boost" mode (the 500K pot acts like the 250K pot from the center to full-off). My next project is to replace the 500K volume knob with either a stacked 500K or 1Meg pot to give volume control for each pickup! I might then replace the active preamp switch where the current pickup selector is- though it's hard to find room in the control cavity for the preamp with the addition of push-pull and stacked pots!

I have a hard time not modifying any instrument I own like crazy- the G&Ls just give so much to work with to begin with! ( I think the passive eq is genious! though it probably wouldn't be as functional with pickups that don't already have such an excess of lows/ highs). I am actually doing a similar experiment as your Sterling idea at the moment- I have a bass with a MusicMan position pickup that I am replacing with a G&L MFD- the bass was a Stingray copy more or less as it was- with an EMG active preamp + Seymour Duncan MM pickup- I'll update you when I finally get it up and running (I have so many projects and so little time!).
  #10  
Old 11-25-2006, 10:44 PM
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Wow...pretty cool stuff! I'll bet your L2500 sounds amazing! For my use, i think i really want to be able to cut the mids a bit and have more "useful" bass/treble knobs. I'm wondering if maybe something's wrong with mine because of the fact that there's very little change until the Treble is 2/3 rolled back and the bass is 2/3 rolled forward. Other than that they're useless. I've managed to learn how to use them effectively though...even still this bass blows away anything i've ever played!
I'm gonna try to contact that Rothstein gutiars about that mid control to see if it'll work on my L2000
Thanks for all your input and please keep me posted on your project!

Peace!
  #11  
Old 11-25-2006, 11:37 PM
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Got part sources and diagrams Karl?

Jim
  #12  
Old 11-26-2006, 01:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spideyjg
Got part sources and diagrams Karl?

Jim
I kind of just did it out of my head- except the original Parallel/ single coil/ series switch - which I started a thread about when I first did it. I originally wanted to try the "single coil w/ bass boost" instead of series, so I just wired a .1uf capacitor (metal film from Radio Shack) to each side of the switch ala the wiring schematic for the older L2000s (I linked this on the switch mod thread).
I had it that way for a couple days before deciding- "why not make it switchable between single coil w/ bass boost and normal series wiring?"- I already had a couple 500K push/pull pots ( you can use any 500K push/pull pot- I always get mine from www.guitarelectronics.com or www.guitarnucleus.com ) sitting around from other abandoned projects (or guitars I returned to stock to sell!)- which was a lucky coincidence, as I always found myself wanting to be able to dial in a little more treble- especially in the new "single coil w/ bass boost" setting. A larger value pot sends less signal through the capacitor, and therefore retains more treble- but the full scope of the original 250K pot is also represented in the last half of the 500K pots turn. I wired the pot lugs the same as the original pot.
For the push/ pull switch, I wired it like this

a b
c d
e f

-a and b are not used
-c is attached to the series side of the series/ parallel switch for one of the pickups (where there is a wire connecting 2 of the lugs together on each pickup)
-d is attached to the same part of the switch for the other pickup
- e is attached to one side of a .1uf capacitor, the other side is attached to ground
-f is attached to one side of another .1uf capacitor, again the other side of the cap is attached to ground

When the switch is down, c connects to a, and d connects to b- it is essentially a dead end and the entire signal returns through the switch- so the series mode works as normal.
When the switch is pulled up, c connects to e and d connects to f- the highs from the signal are pulled through the capacitors, and the lows return through the series circuit.

Because of the way that humbuckers cancel noise (any signal picked up by both coils is essentially phased out), the single coil w/ bass boost setting will not cancel hum unless both pickups are on (because the capacitor creates an uneven balance between the coils)- even though all the coils are still functioning. If you tap on the coils, one side will click and one side will "whoom"- as the highs are being sucked out of the 2nd one.

Despite the noise, I am in love with the "single coil w/ bass boost" setting on both pickups and with them together- it basically sounds like my Jazz bass sounded through my old SVT with the bass and low-mids on the amp cranked almost all the way ( maybe a little less jarring!)- the neck pickup soloed ( as L1000 users can attest) sounds like a really ballsy + deep P pickup to me. The extra treble from the 500K pot gives the sound a little extra clarity.

I originally removed the preamp because it was attached (with adhesive foam) to the rear of the treble- cut pot, and with the added height of the push/ pull switch- it wouldn't fit in the control cavity without rewiring it and moving it. I never really used the preamp anyway, so I just left it out! This left a 3 way switch free, so I decided to wire each pickup to seperate series/ single/ parallel switches to add even more possibilities. I have had very little time to play around with this change however- I imagine that the neck pickup in single coil coupled with the bridge pickup in single coil w/ bass boost will be pretty killer! ( and possibly very noisy - but I can live with that!).

If anyone has any more questions, feel free to ask- I feel like I'm not very good at describing technical things in writing!

Karl
 


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