L2500 truss turn?

[ErnieD]

Well I picked up my L2500 Saturday from having the input jack repaired, I posted about this awhile back, thanks again for replies back then. So repair dude tells me it was kinda a bear to remove/install it. He said the barrel was screwed into the bass, so he had to unscrew it out and screw it back in. I called first and he said they only use Switchcraft so I was OK with them doing it for me. I bought a MIM Jazz there years ago and had a bass setup too. The guys were cool and dug my sunburst bass. When the counter guy took it out of case to look at it, he said I had some bow in the neck but that I could just turn the rod abit to correct that. I can never sight the neck well to tell, so did he mean I needed to loosen or tighten the truss rod? I shoulda asked but was in kinda hurry to be somewhere. Ive read the setup stickies before just hoped I could get a quick answer here so I can try to adjust it myself, maybe a 1/4 turn. Thanks for any help folks. Glad to have her back.

[nig]

Hi, the neck relief is a personal thing, I adjust my bass necks, as depending on the guage and stress of the strings you fit then the neck is basically pulled like a bow, so you tighten the truss rod a little to compensate, all my g&l's respond very well to a tweak. If you look down the bass from the headstock, possibly with one eye shut, to the bridge you should see a rise or lift ftom the 10th fret ish to the nut of 1/8 th of an inch or less if you enjoy a fine action with a bit of fretting out, tighetn the truss rod to flatten the neck out and loosen it to create more of a bow ( all done within half of a turn so dont go mad ). anyone else please improve on my ramblings.

[quickervicar]

Just to add to the above post:

Remember that the truss rod is threaded and we are tightening a nut on the end, thus shortening the effective length of the bowed rod and thereby straightening the neck. Now, as with any threaded rod & nut, you will run the risk of stripping the threads if they are asked to do too much work. To prevent this it helps to preload the neck, then tighten the nut to hold it in place.

It is a bit of a wrestling match, but hold down the body on a blanket-covered table. (get another set of hands to help you if need be) Then gently press down on the headstock end of the neck until you get to your desired relief (approx. 1/8" @ 12th fret, as noted above). Once there, tighten your truss rod until it is slightly snug. You should be done, though they will often "settle in" after a couple of days and may require more tweaking.

[ErnieD]

Im a bit clearer on this. But now by tightening the nut you say I will create more of a bow? I thought he was saying I had to remove some of the bow? Will this effect the action, its a bit high but thats the way I like it.

[nig]

Read it again , the strings create the bow and tightening the truss rod straightens the neck out or brings it back.

[Templar]

Maybe to help clarify things...

Commonly used term...Neck bow (forward bow), also known as "relief" or "refrain". Generally you want some.

Backbow....you don't want any.

Warped neck....don't even ask.

Most basses (including G&L's) have output jacks, not input jacks.

[quickervicar]

Originally Posted by ErnieD

But now by tightening the nut you say I will create more of a bow? I thought he was saying I had to remove some of the bow?

Sorry. Yes, the neck has "relief", or forward bow caused by the string tension. The truss rod is also bowed. By tightening the nut you will be removing some of the relief in the neck.

This should help to confuse even more: http://www.warmoth.com/bass/necks/ne...ion=truss_rods