A note of caution regarding newer G&L 5 string bridges

[Ken Baker]

Posted here, BABP, and GbL.

It's been well documented that G&L 5 string basses should generally be strung thru-body where that is an option. The reason for this is that there are only two #8 screws holding it onto the body. We've known this for awhile, it's old news, yada, yada, yada.

To all who own these basses, I would recommend that you carefully check the tightness of those bridge screws. Release some or most of the string tension and gently apply tightening pressure with a #2 Phillips screwdriver. You want the screws snug. Don't give the things a huge crank because you really don't want the wood threads stripped out.

If you are unable to tighten the screws due to the wood threads being stripped, you have some options:

1. Repair it yourself using the good ol' toothpick method.

2. Have a luthier repair it for you.

3. Have G&L repair it for you.

For those of you into woodworking, you could drill out the holes and glue in dowels. This would actually be very effective. The problem here, and the reason that I don't actually recommend this method, is that these screws are very close to the edges of the bridge and any finish cracking resulting from drilling could possible extend into the visible area.

Why do I type all this? Because I pulled the bridge on my new L-2500 last night and it wasn't as tight as it should be. Both screws are stripped. Also, whoever was driving the air screwdriver at G&L needs to replace the bit.

Moral of the story: Check the screws and string thru-body (even if the screws are okay).

Ken...

[unclejane]

Originally Posted by Ken Baker

Posted here, BABP, and GbL.

It's been well documented that G&L 5 string basses should generally be strung thru-body where that is an option. The reason for this is that there are only two #8 screws holding it onto the body. We've known this for awhile, it's old news, yada, yada, yada.

To all who own these basses, I would recommend that you carefully check the tightness of those bridge screws. Release some or most of the string tension and gently apply tightening pressure with a #2 Phillips screwdriver. You want the screws snug. Don't give the things a huge crank because you really don't want the wood threads stripped out.

If you are unable to tighten the screws due to the wood threads being stripped, you have some options:

1. Repair it yourself using the good ol' toothpick method.

2. Have a luthier repair it for you.

3. Have G&L repair it for you.

For those of you into woodworking, you could drill out the holes and glue in dowels. This would actually be very effective. The problem here, and the reason that I don't actually recommend this method, is that these screws are very close to the edges of the bridge and any finish cracking resulting from drilling could possible extend into the visible area.

Why do I type all this? Because I pulled the bridge on my new L-2500 last night and it wasn't as tight as it should be. Both screws are stripped. Also, whoever was driving the air screwdriver at G&L needs to replace the bit.

Moral of the story: Check the screws and string thru-body (even if the screws are okay).

Ken...

Another alternative is to put fasteners through the holes where the strings would go through. I was thinking of small bolts, so it'd be a completely reversible mod, but I never did go shop for bolts and never did it. Screws probably wouldn't work unless you drilled out the holes in the bridge a bit to accomodate screws big enough to thread into the holes in the wood.

I've been top-loading mine without problems so never tried this. I did check the tightness of the screws, tho, before putting the most recent set of strings on.

LS

[Chef]

I pulled my strung thru the bridge Tribute L2500 out of the case one day to find...

No string tension, and bridge ripped out of the body.

Now repeat after me:
"I will always string 2500's thru the body from now on."

[unclejane]

Originally Posted by Chef

I pulled my strung thru the bridge Tribute L2500 out of the case one day to find...

No string tension, and bridge ripped out of the body.

Now repeat after me:
"I will always string 2500's thru the body from now on."

Well... I may go ahead and do the bolt mod on mine then after all just to be safe then......

I have found I actually prefer to top load as it seems to stay in tune ever so slightly better. When I strung through the body it seemed like I was always having to retune a bit. I can also get strings locally, the super long chrome flats I have to order....

LS

[Chef]

When stringing thru the body, it helps to tune it up, then press down on the string just in front of the saddle to create a really good witness point.

[unclejane]

Originally Posted by Chef

When stringing thru the body, it helps to tune it up, then press down on the string just in front of the saddle to create a really good witness point.

Sure wish G&L had just put screws in those holes in the first place like on the older basses (like my L2000) and just done away with the through body stringing thingy. It makes zero tonal difference and just makes strings harder to find....

Well off to the hardware store to get some bolts....

LS

[joyboy52]

Thanks for all the tips, Gents.

[abrahamseed]

how do i string my bass through the body.......there are no holes...........lol

just thought i'd ask before drilling.

[Kyon`]

Do you have a 5 string or 4 string?

[Mick Markey]

Originally Posted by unclejane

It makes zero tonal difference

I find that it, at least, adds more string tension to an often too floppy low B string.

Running it through the body seems to tighten it up just enough to get better tone from such a large string.

YMMV.

[abrahamseed]

I have an L2K, i would never drill through the body.....just kidding

[idoru]

Originally Posted by Mick Markey

I find that it, at least, adds more string tension to an often too floppy low B string.

There's been a squillion threads on this topic, and some Really Smart Dudes have all said the same thing. Doesn't matter whether you go through body, or use spacers behind the bridge to extend the string, or use a reverse headstock to lengthen B & E strings - string tension is affected by gauge, tuning & scale length, nothing else.

What through-body can achieve on some instruments is better coupling of the string to saddle (and possibly bridge to body), resulting in reduction of minor vibrations which may increase sustain & enhance certain harmonic overtones... maybe.

I'm not denying that your B string sounds better through-body, but it won't be due to increased tension

c-

[Chef]

this is not a known problem with 4 strings.

Originally Posted by abrahamseed

I have an L2K, i would never drill through the body.....just kidding