Set up question

[shatterd]

I love my G&L...but since this is my first bass, I have nothing to compare it to. Well tonite I was in a local music store and picked up a Stingray. I was amazed at how fast the neck was and how god the string action was. The strings were low and no buzzing. Very nice neck on the stingray.

I noticed the strings are just a little high on my G&L(especially above 12th fret), when compared to my experience with that Stingray. So I'm thinking maybe I just need to slightly adjust my truss rod. I've never touched it since it was shipped.

Is it OK for me to do this?

I'm guessing I'll start with a quarter or half turn clockwise. Is this correct? Also....will this mess anything up, like intonation? I don't really have to do this because this instrument plays just fine, and the neck feels fine. It's close to perfect, and I'm wondering if I should try to make it perfect like the Stingray I tried.

Advice?

[peterbright]

Go for it.

[Ken Baker]

Originally Posted by shatterd

I noticed the strings are just a little high on my G&L(especially above 12th fret), when compared to my experience with that Stingray. So I'm thinking maybe I just need to slightly adjust my truss rod. I've never touched it since it was shipped.

Is it OK for me to do this?

...I'm guessing I'll start with a quarter or half turn clockwise.

Absolutely! That's why it's there. The trussrod is something you'd adjust if you change strings to a different brand or type and they have higher or lower tension.

As you look at the adjuster from the headstock, turn it to the right. As you say, small adjustments are the way to go; usually a quarter turn or so. Then re-tune and allow the bass to settle in to the new setting. Re-adjust as necessary.

Is this correct? Also....will this mess anything up, like intonation?

Adjusting the trussrod should not affect your intonation, though you may have to fine tune your saddles. Checking intonation is a part of a good setup and is worth learning about.

Ken...

[shatterd]

Thank you!!!!

[DavePlaysBass]

Lots of info in the setup area. You need to first set the relief in the neck with the trussrod. Then you adjust your saddles. Then you adjust the pickups. Then you set intonation.

[unclejane]

Originally Posted by DavePlaysBass

Lots of info in the setup area. You need to first set the relief in the neck with the trussrod. Then you adjust your saddles. Then you adjust the pickups. Then you set intonation.

Actually, the first thing that you should do is check the nut height. When new, most basses come with the nut set too high - this is on purpose, I think, so you can file it down to the desired height.

Don't try to do this, tho, without the right tools. You need the little files of the correct size. Most decent guitar shops have them if they do any setup work.

But if the nut is too high you'll never get the thing setup right, no matter what you do the action will always feel a mile high......

So start there first, then do the action and truss rod. The way I do that is lower the action as much as possible until the buzz at the 12 to 14th fret position is too objectionable. Then tighten the rod until one spot on the board is too buzzy - then back it off until that buzzy spot isn't objectionable anymore.

I play fretless so don't do anything with the intonation, but it would be at this point you'd adjust that. That'll change the action too so you'll have to reset that again most likely.

Plan on a day or two days work to get it exactly right. It actually took about a week to get my L2000 on the gnat's ass. I still have to tweak the truss rod when the weather changes, but only a very little bit, to keep it exactly where I need it.

A properly setup G&L with low, supple action is like a magic wand!

LS

[shatterd]

OK, let me just ask again to be sure...

If I turn the screw clockwise(to the right) that will bring the fretboard and the strings closer together?...and possibly induce some buzzing?

Counter clockwise will do opposite?....raising the strings up.

I turned the screw a half turn clockwise today and it dropped my tuning? This led me to believe I have it backwards? Shouldn't the tuning rise when you turn clockwise? What gives?

Also...can't I lower my saddles at the bridge? I assume that is done by turning those two screws on each side on the top of the saddles? Which way do I turn those to lower the saddle?


Also, I changed strings today for first time. Oh what a difference that makes!!! Those were the factory strings I took off.

[unclejane]

Originally Posted by shatterd

OK, let me just ask again to be sure...

If I turn the screw clockwise(to the right) that will bring the fretboard and the strings closer together?...and possibly induce some buzzing?

Counter clockwise will do opposite?....raising the strings up.

I turned the screw a half turn clockwise today and it dropped my tuning? This led me to believe I have it backwards? Shouldn't the tuning rise when you turn clockwise? What gives?

Also...can't I lower my saddles at the bridge? I assume that is done by turning those two screws on each side on the top of the saddles? Which way do I turn those to lower the saddle?


Also, I changed strings today for first time. Oh what a difference that makes!!! Those were the factory strings I took off.

Turning the rod clockwise (looking down at it) will tighten the rod, causing the neck to bow away from the force of the strings. i.e. it'll get flatter (less relief).
Loosening it will cause it to bow towards the force of the strings, i.e. it'll get more "bowed" under the strings (more relief).

Usually, yes, tightening the rod - making the fingerboard flatter - will usually make one or all of the strings to go a little sharp since there's now a little more pull on the strings.

Yes, to lower the saddles at the bridge you turn the little allen screws counter-clockwise, the opposite to raise them....

LS

[shatterd]

OK I have done some initial adjustments based on advice here. I think I have it very close to perfect. However....the intonation is very slightly off on the low(fat) E and A string. It's in tune when I play them open, but slightly sharp when fretted at the 12th fret. What next. I assume I need to adjust the intonation screws. Which way do I turn them...how much?

You guys are great!

[Ken Baker]

Highly recommended reading:

First link

Second link

Really. Either one, or both, of these books will be a great aid to your future bass maintenance endeavors.

I don't post this to be a smart ass or to make you feel bad. Nor do I mind answering questions. However, these books can teach you how all the various parts of the instrument work together to make happy noise. They'll help you do your own set up work, and even repairs as you gain experience.

If you're not in a position to order from Amazon, they should be available at your local bookstore, such as Barnes & Noble.

Good luck!

Ken...

[unclejane]

Originally Posted by shatterd

OK I have done some initial adjustments based on advice here. I think I have it very close to perfect. However....the intonation is very slightly off on the low(fat) E and A string. It's in tune when I play them open, but slightly sharp when fretted at the 12th fret. What next. I assume I need to adjust the intonation screws. Which way do I turn them...how much?

You guys are great!

this means the string is too short (the 12th fret is "cutting" the string on the bridge side of the "halfway" point). So, the saddle has to be moved back towards the bridge to lengthen the string - the screw that attaches the saddle to the back of the bridge is turned clockwise to do this (like screwing "in" any screw).

May take a few tries to get it exactly right. It might also change the action a little as well, so that may need to be readjusted too.

Setting the intonation is a pain in ass - one of the reasons I play fretless. Now I'm simply out of tune all the time so I don't have to mess with it

LS

[Chef]

There's a great summary of basic setup at the G&L guitars site, in the FAQ section.

[Madcity Fats]

Originally Posted by unclejane

this means the string is too short (the 12th fret is "cutting" the string on the bridge side of the "halfway" point). So, the saddle has to be moved back towards the bridge to lengthen the string - the screw that attaches the saddle to the back of the bridge is turned clockwise to do this (like screwing "in" any screw).

And don't forget that your G&L bridge has a saddle lock screw that you'll want to loosen before adjusting intonation (that's the little hole on the lower side of the bridge facing the control knobs).

I honestly don't find setting intonation to be too difficult. The trick is not to go nuts trying to get everything perfect. Intonation is a compromise, so don't freak out if your open string is perfectly in tune and the octave is a few cents sharp or flat. That's actually what you'd call pretty decent intonation.

Or ... you know ... just go fretless.

[shatterd]

Thanks all!!! Great advice. Learning a lot and getting this bass dialed in. It's my baby now. I'll post a pic tonite if I can get around to it. Guess I need to join the G&L club.

[Madcity Fats]

Originally Posted by shatterd

Guess I need to join the G&L club.

You should also be sure to register it over at guitarsbyleo.com. Then you're really on the road to G&L geekery (and I mean that in the best way).