Which straplock for L2500/1505?

Rody · #1 04-27-2007, 04:43 AM

Hi all,

I have a tribby l2500 and an L1505. I had a spare set of straplocks which I tried to fit to the tribby after I bought it (2 yrs ago maybe) and it didn't fit because the straplock screws were too thin for the screwholes. I couldn't fit the original screw through the straplock button so I sold off the straplocks (can't even remember which brand it was) and forgot about it.

FFWD: Last rehearsal I had a near-death experience: my strap popped off, saved the bass however, thank FSM. So I thought I'd give the whole straplock business another try. Which type fits G&L? I don't really care how it works (I have two different types on my other basses), the only function for me is that the strap stays on since each bass has its own strap and I never take the straps off.....

All tips are appreciated (I know the Grolsch washer trick).

Cheers Rody

bassbluestew · #2 04-27-2007, 08:37 AM

I use Schallers................

S

g4string · #3 04-27-2007, 09:29 AM

Schallers............Dunlops can come loose and fall out. Schallers will not fall out due to their design.

Infernal Affair · #4 04-27-2007, 12:13 PM

I use Dunlops and they work fine. They *can* come loose theoretically, but I don't think I could ever pop them off by accident even if I really tried. The straplock screws for the Dunlops I have are actually tighter than my strap button screws.

Orpheus55 · #5 04-27-2007, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Infernal Affair

I use Dunlops and they work fine. They *can* come loose theoretically, but I don't think I could ever pop them off by accident even if I really tried. The straplock screws for the Dunlops I have are actually tighter than my strap button screws.

Same here; I use Dunlops on all my basses, as I like to interchange shoulder straps. The install on the ash body was easy--no toothpicks, glue, or any of that, and I've had them on for months now.

parnas · #6 04-27-2007, 02:45 PM

Try LM Surelock straps. No need to dig a hole in your bass, and it's working perfectly for me. (Oh, and it's cheaper

)

http://www.lmproducts.com/dspSureloc...ubcat=SureLock

marcray · #7 04-27-2007, 02:49 PM

schallers with the original screw.. easy choice.

cb56 · #8 04-27-2007, 04:22 PM

I use schallers too but I think they are the ones with the skinnyer screws. Putting toothpicks or wooden matchsticks (remove the part that starts the fire) does work and it holds forever.

Laredo · #9 04-29-2007, 12:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cb56

I use schallers too but I think they are the ones with the skinnyer screws. Putting toothpicks or wooden matchsticks (remove the part that starts the fire) does work and it holds forever.

I like the Schaller Strap Locks also, but don't have them on all my guitars due to the variance in some hole sizes. I like your toothpick/matchstick fix. I have gone with slightly longer screws in the past. I usually get high grade stainless ones at one of the Home Improvement warehouses. Then I intall the longer screws with a little wood putty (hardening type) and it seems to work well.............

quickervicar · #10 05-02-2007, 12:41 PM

+1 for Schallers. One word of advice: apply a drop of blue Loctite to the threaded area on the receiver where the washer goes. The vibrations from playing the bass will allow the jam-nut to back off over time. My guitars don't seem to suffer from this.

Stuggi · #11 05-02-2007, 03:23 PM

Schallers! I have 'em on mine, and even if the screws are a thad smaller, they are as rock solid as the originals...

coop · #12 05-02-2007, 06:43 PM

Been using Dunlops since 1989, several hundred gigs later no failures to report. I use the toothpick trick as well, but I also add a drop of Gorilla glue before I screw the button on.

Rody · #13 05-03-2007, 12:02 AM

Thanks for all the replies! I'll try the Shallers. I have Grolsch washers installed as a short-term solution though ;-)

Cheers Rody

Stuggi · #14 05-03-2007, 11:40 AM

You won't be sorry, the Schallers are premium quality!

fourstringbliss · #15 05-03-2007, 07:11 PM

I've used Dunlops for a long time with no problems.

ErnieD · #16 05-05-2007, 09:09 AM

I am ready to try em, as the leather strap holes wear in I've had to catch my bass a couple times while on stage, yeow. But my question is not on the screws end but the part that goes onto the strap itself. How is that held on, can I not switch basses and use this strap if the other bass does not have straplocks too? Do I need another strap or put straplocks on all the basses I use to be able to switch out? Like I said never used em, never seen them upclose, so pls indulge my ignorance. Thanks for any info.

fourstringbliss · #17 05-05-2007, 11:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ErnieD

I am ready to try em, as the leather strap holes wear in I've had to catch my bass a couple times while on stage, yeow. But my question is not on the screws end but the part that goes onto the strap itself. How is that held on, can I not switch basses and use this strap if the other bass does not have straplocks too? Do I need another strap or put straplocks on all the basses I use to be able to switch out? Like I said never used em, never seen them upclose, so pls indulge my ignorance. Thanks for any info.

I use Dunlop Straplok's like this:

except I use the chrome ones.

Unless they're defective it should be almost impossible for them to either come loose from the bass or for the part attached to your strap to come loose from the part attached to your bass. You would need buttons for each of the instruments you want to use the strap with, but the extra buttons aren't hard to find. If you get the "dual design" ones that I have pictured they can be used like standard strap buttons as well.

I just like the fact that I can take my hands off my bass while it's around my shoulder and never worry that the strap is going to come loose. It just feels more professional.

This is what the pieces look like when they come out of the package:

The buttons and screws attach to your bass. The barrel looking thing on the right goes through the ring to the left of it and then through the strap hole. Then you put it through the flat ring with the engraved writing on it and then the metal clip on the left clips to the end of the barrel looking thing. You can remove it if you want to lengthen/shorten your strap, but other than that they're now part of your strap.

pilonian · #18 05-07-2007, 10:20 AM

Hey, I've got the same problem with my Tribute l-2000. I have like 3 pairs of the schaller straplocks, since one year for chritstmas I just got a bunch, a couple were sold off with old basses. Anyways the problem is the same that the screw is too thin, and also the screw hole in the button is too thin so I can't just use the original screw. Are dunlops a wider screw than shallers? also how secure is the glue and toothpick method, it doesn't sound 100% safe

cb56 · #19 05-07-2007, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pilonian

.... also how secure is the glue and toothpick method, it doesn't sound 100% safe

I've done it to several basses and never had one come loose. I also never used glue, just the plain toothpicks or matchsticks.

DopplerShift · #20 05-07-2007, 07:41 PM

The glue and toothpick thing is an old carpenter's trick. Guitar techs use it all the time from the heel of the neck to strap buttons. It's a hack but it works.