String Height

honeyboy · #1 10-10-2007, 11:14 PM

I was just curious what string height you all have your G&Ls set to. Do you have them set to the factory height or more or less? On my '95 L2000 (1 5/8 " at the nut with the 12" radius- I think it's a #1 or #8, depending on which chart you look at) the strings are set to 3/32" all the way across. I like a clean sound with little buzz and this height seems to accomplish that. I would prefer a lower height, like 2/32" like some of my other basses. Anyone have them set lower? Higher?

Nedmundo · #2 10-11-2007, 08:12 AM

I have an L-1500 and SB-2, both with #8 necks. The L-1500 sets up to about 5/64" with virtually no buzz. It's wonderful. The SB-2 gets to 3/32", about the same as my MIA Fenders. I tried to match the L-1500's set-up, but couldn't quite get there. Still plays well though.

sunbeast · #3 10-11-2007, 01:48 PM

Just in case you weren't aware....To get the best possible action, you should measure action from the last fret with the 12th fret fretted- this takes neck relief and nut height out of the action equation. The problem with comparing action with open strings is that you bring nut height into the equation- both of my 2 newer G&Ls had unnecessarily high nuts when I got them (and my 2 early 80s G&Ls have nut heights about as low as they coul go without buzz), which makes a marked difference in the action no matter where the neck relief or bridge adjustments are set...

Unless you both have some weird fret issues, my assumption is that you just have unnecessarily high nuts on these basses...

String gauge will have a big effect on action as well- I use heavy gauge strings tuned down a half step on a couple basses, and this requires higher action (larger strings need more room to vibrate). I personally tend to prefer a little more bow in my necks than most folks so I can really dig in without any buzzing on the lower notes. I also have the action set in a graduating height- where the G string has the lowest and E the highest, because the G needs less room to vibrate than the E. I don't know why you would want equal action across all your strings- as you should always be able to get lower action on your thinner strings....

Karl

honeyboy · #4 10-11-2007, 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sunbeast

Just in case you weren't aware....To get the best possible action, you should measure action from the last fret with the 12th fret fretted- this takes neck relief and nut height out of the action equation. The problem with comparing action with open strings is that you bring nut height into the equation- both of my 2 newer G&Ls had unnecessarily high nuts when I got them (and my 2 early 80s G&Ls have nut heights about as low as they coul go without buzz), which makes a marked difference in the action no matter where the neck relief or bridge adjustments are set...

Unless you both have some weird fret issues, my assumption is that you just have unnecessarily high nuts on these basses...

String gauge will have a big effect on action as well- I use heavy gauge strings tuned down a half step on a couple basses, and this requires higher action (larger strings need more room to vibrate). I personally tend to prefer a little more bow in my necks than most folks so I can really dig in without any buzzing on the lower notes. I also have the action set in a graduating height- where the G string has the lowest and E the highest, because the G needs less room to vibrate than the E. I don't know why you would want equal action across all your strings- as you should always be able to get lower action on your thinner strings....

Karl

The comment about the nut height is interesting. If the height of the string at the first fret is according to specs, are you suggesting to get the nut cut deeper than that?

Not to be argumentative ,I don't see how measuring the string height the way you suggested is beneficial since one needs to consider the nut height and bow to get the proper height (in my case, no buzz). Measuring the way you suggested gives me 3/64" which sounds impressive but it still measures 3/32" at the 12th fret.
Regarding the same height all the way across, I can't really remember why I have it that way since on my other basses, my strings gradually lower as they get to the G string. Maybe I just set the thinner strings to specs as well which is 3/32" or maybe they felt better at the same height all the way across. I'm getting old- hard to remember!

Thanks for your input, gentlemen. Other commenters are welcome.

sunbeast · #5 10-11-2007, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by honeyboy

Not to be argumentative ,I don't see how measuring the string height the way you suggested is beneficial since one needs to consider the nut height and bow to get the proper height (in my case, no buzz). Measuring the way you suggested gives me 3/64" which sounds impressive but it still measures 3/32" at the 12th fret.
.

I was just relating it to the whole nut height thing- the difference between nut height from the factory was so large on my 4 G&Ls that it would make setting equal action for each bass fairly impossible when measured with open strings. You measure neck relief by fretting at the first and last frets, which takes the nut out of the equation- you should measure action the same way. To get a nut as low as can go, you would need to use feeler gauges- Unless you've done that, it shouldn't be a part of your action measurement. It should be pointed out also that nut height only affects your action when the strings are open, so fretting the string anywhere takes it out of the equation. To see if the nut height is the issue- measure your action while fretting the first fret (taking the nut out of the equation) and see if it still differs as much from your other basses...

Karl

honeyboy · #6 10-11-2007, 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sunbeast

I was just relating it to the whole nut height thing- the difference between nut height from the factory was so large on my 4 G&Ls that it would make setting equal action for each bass fairly impossible when measured with open strings. You measure neck relief by fretting at the first and last frets, which takes the nut out of the equation- you should measure action the same way. To get a nut as low as can go, you would need to use feeler gauges- Unless you've done that, it shouldn't be a part of your action measurement. It should be pointed out also that nut height only affects your action when the strings are open, so fretting the string anywhere takes it out of the equation. To see if the nut height is the issue- measure your action while fretting the first fret (taking the nut out of the equation) and see if it still differs as much from your other basses...

Karl

Okay, now I see how that can be determined, by pressing on the first fret. Good idea.
I went back to look at my bass and it seems the 4th fret may be a problem since buzzing occurs pressing on the 3rd fret after I lowered my strings , working my way up to no buzz. I can get the G and D strings down to 4/64 and 5/64 w/o buzz so I left them there.The E and A still need 3/32 so I'm, guessing maybe it needs a fret dressing, at least at the 4th fret. My string height at the 1st fret is .022 which is factory specs so I think the nut is cut correctly.

Hey Carl, any opinions on why my bass in active would be so quiet using a DI into a system and it is rather buzzy going into an amp? Take a look at my thread called "Does this make Sense?' for details.