Tribute L-2500 bridge Vs. USA L-2500

jumpinin · #1 10-22-2008, 07:22 PM

I hope this hasn't been discussed at length already. I have a Tribute L-2500 made in Korea (Tribute stamped on the bridge and serial number starting 0408). I've played a couple of the USA L-2500's and the main difference as far as I can tell is the bridge. I see on the G&L site you can buy the locking saddle system for the L-2500 or a full bridge but the locking saddle system states "not for Tribute models". My question is could I swap out the whole bridge? Has anyone tried this? It may be a relatively inexpensive way to greatly improve the sustain of a Tribute.

Ken Baker · #2 10-22-2008, 08:42 PM

You're talking about the bass saddle set, right?

The bridges (USA / Korean / Indonesian) are effectively the same, meaning that they all use the Saddle Lock Bridge system that squeezes the saddles together. However, the actual bridges may have slightly different measurements, such as saddle width, etc. The saddles linked above are replacement saddles for the non-metric USA bridges. Unless you have an actual problem with your bridge, there's really no need to change to the USA unit and I would be extremely surprised if a change would improve sustain.

Having said that, many purists feel that brass saddles are the cat's behind all by themselves. I just don't think that there would be any difference other than that feel good sorta thing.

My recommendation? Save your money and throw it some good quality strings. That WILL make a difference!

Ken...

jumpinin · #3 10-23-2008, 05:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ken Baker

My recommendation? Save your money and throw it some good quality strings. That WILL make a difference!

Ken...

What would you recommend for strings? For the past ten years I've been primarily an upright player but when I played more electric I used DRs (originally Rotosounds) most of the time. I have a set of DRs on the L-2500 but they don't have as much growl as I had hoped especially the low B.

TDR1138 · #4 10-23-2008, 08:19 AM

For round-wounds, I prefer Rotos on my G&Ls (L2k and SB2), whereas I prefer DRs on my others (Fender Jazz, Ibanez, SX). I felt the same way, that the DRs didn't have the growl I wanted out of the G&Ls. Haven't tried a 5'er though.

I was actually wondering the same thing about the saddle sets, though. The reason I was thinking about switching on my Tribby was because the saddles on my Tribby have a squared-off back edge to them, while my USA's saddles are rounded. (I can't tell for sure if the USA ones on the site are squared or rounded by the pics, but they look rounded to me) I like picking back by the bridge, and have cut my hand more than once by catching the bridge the wrong way and getting that sharp corner. That's my reason for wanting to swap. I have filed the corners down on the Tribby, and that's helped, but I just want a little nicer, cleaner look...

Ken Baker · #5 10-23-2008, 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jumpinin

What would you recommend for strings? For the past ten years I've been primarily an upright player but when I played more electric I used DRs (originally Rotosounds) most of the time. I have a set of DRs on the L-2500 but they don't have as much growl as I had hoped especially the low B.

I've got TI Powerbass strings on mine right now and they work very well. If you like flats and low tension, TI Jazz Flats are also very good and they last for years.

Ken...