Tribute L-2500 or L-2000 truss-rod?

[perucci]

Has anyone recently purchased a new Tribute L-2500 or L-2000, and adjusted the truss-rod?

I'm wondering:

• How solid the nut where the allen-wrench goes is; does it strip easily?
• How easily does the truss-rod turn?

I received one via UPS that someone banged-up. It was supposedly new, but is obviously not (the strings are bent where someone "man-handled" the allen-wrench). My concern isn't the string, though - the inside where the allen-wrench goes is all scratched-up and looks like very soft metal. It doesn't seem to be stripped, but it looks "cheap" (and scratched-up).

By comparison, the truss-rods (dual truss-rod on 6-string bass) on my Ibanez look like a much harder metal where the allen-wrench goes.

[whacker]

I purchased a used USA L2500 a few months ago (don't know what year produced), and discovered it has what I'd describe as a "problem" neck: Needed fret leveling and the truss rod was apparently bottomed out, wouldn't tighten anymore (if, when tightening it, you start to feel it spring back to where you started, you've reached the limit of the threads and you're just twisting the rod. Don't continue tightening!). I reinforced the nut with several flat washers of suitable size, and it adjusts just fine now, turns easily. I didn't see any tendency for the nut's allen slot to strip, but if it worries you you can always remove it (using a 1/8" allen wrench) and buy another to replace it. I think you can get 'em from G&L, maybe elsewhere as well.

[perucci]

Allen-wrench Size:
Whacker's post suggests that a 1/8" allen-wrench is the proper size for truss-rod adjustments. Can others confirm this for the recent Korean Tribute L-2000s? I've got a great set of allen-wrenches, both US & metric, but on basses, I generally find I get a "good fit" from both the US and metric set. I'm wondering what the "correct" size is, assuming there's a standard.

"Torque" in Turning Truss-rod:
On some basses, the truss-rod seems to rub against the wood, being a very simple design, and requiring quite a "nudge" sometimes to get the truss-rod turning.

On other basses, like my Ibanez, there seems to be a "rod within a rod", so that the turning the rod with the allen-wrench is quite easy

Other than being sure to stop tightening, when the rod in the G&L is "maxed-out" (tightened all the way), can anyone else shed some light on what to expect with a new G&L Tribute L-2000? I'd prefer to know the "personality" of the typical G&L before making any adjustments. G&L talks about their unique truss-rod design (no "skunk-stripe"), but I'm not clear how it "feels" when turning the rod.

I've adjusted bass truss-rods for about 25 years, but I learned the "hard way" on a Fender Jazz about 22 years ago that it *is* possible to strip the metal where the allen-wrench goes into the rod...

[perucci]

FYI, I found this link on G&L allen-wrench sizes, though I can't vouch for how up-to-date it is: http://www.guitarsbyleo.com/faq.php3#TT2

[rok51]

I just checked my new Tribby-it's a 5/32. FWIW, I keep a set of the uber-cheap SAE/Metric 16 piece allen wrenches from Wally World-they set me back the princely sum of 88 cents (!)-in all of my bass cases-along with a six inch stainless steel rule marked in 64ths. The allen wrenches are actually good steel and they fit tight.

I adjusted my truss rod when I got the bass and again when I changed strings. It took a set very well and seems quite stable through temperature and humidity changes-a good thing when you live in the armpit of Florida! The rod adjustment was very smooth and progressive-I never turn more than a 1/4 turn at a time-usually more like 1/6. Then I retune and let it settle in. It was my understanding that the Tribbys were adjusted in Fullerton before shipment...and I can almost guarantee that no one out there would bugger a truss rod head like that. From your description, someone tried to make the adjustment without slacking the A and D strings and then moving them over the edge of the fretboard...this could easily cause a "bent" string and buggered truss rod head. The two middle strings should always be moved before adjusting the truss rod.

Kim

[perucci]

Originally Posted by rok51

I just checked my new Tribby-it's a 5/32.
...
It was my understanding that the Tribbys were adjusted in Fullerton before shipment...and I can almost guarantee that no one out there would bugger a truss rod head like that. From your description, someone tried to make the adjustment without slacking the A and D strings and then moving them over the edge of the fretboard...this could easily cause a "bent" string and buggered truss rod head. The two middle strings should always be moved before adjusting the truss rod.

Kim

Yes, as soon as I noticed the bent string and buggered head, I knew it had to go back. Additionally, it seemed to be old stock - it was made in Korea. Current Tributes are made in Indonesia, as I understand it.

Thanks for the truss-rod allen-wrench size! I'm never sure if metric or US sizes are appropriate; both generally fit equally well.

[rok51]

Yes the current Tributes are sourced in Indonesia.

Kim