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  #1  
Old 11-14-2007, 09:31 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: new jersey
TWO quick G&L questions...

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i've got some gas and of course my O.C.D. kicks in. i'm interested in a 4 string L2K. possibly even a 5, but these questions are for the 4 banger.

1.) what number neck is closest to a P/stingray? i guess it would be between a #5 and #7.

2.0 what is the finish on the body and neck? i like the finish on my ray so i'm hoping it's the same. somehow i have a feling it's a nitro finish.

Last edited by xshawnxearthx : 11-14-2007 at 11:10 PM.
  #2  
Old 11-15-2007, 11:26 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Fairfax, VA
Neck Finsh

If it's not Laquer then it's poly and it doesn't make a difference. The purest out there "think so" and maybey in 20 years it would make a diference if you A-B'd two of the same axes. Is you're audience going to hear the difference? F... no! The biggest challenge, if you are ordering new, (or used for that sake) is to decide on Satin or Gloss finish on the neck. The SR5's are satin. I happen to like Gloss. My 83 Fender P bass and 2007 G&L 2500 necks are both Gloss. My son doesn't like gloss. He prefers satin because HIS HANDS SWEAT profusely! He likes the satin finish on his Warmoth neck. He says: the sweating isn't as bad. I allways keep a rag close by and wipe my strings and neck down often when I practice or play even if my hands don't sweat. I just like to keep my strings dry to keep them fresher longer. It's really what you get used to. Good luck.

Last edited by Funk49 : 11-15-2007 at 11:36 AM. Reason: typo's
  #3  
Old 11-15-2007, 01:27 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Philadelphia
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The #5 is closest to the neck of a vintage Precision, because of its 1.75" nut and 7.5" (or is it 7.25"?) fretboard radius. But I think the G&L neck is thicker front to back than, say, an American Vintage '62 Reissue P-bass. It feels different. Current Precisions have a 1.625" nut width, which G&L doesn't currently offer. But the G&L necks with 1.5" nuts are have a slightly meatier profile than a Fender Jazz, and thus IMO feel somewhere between a Jazz and a 1.625" nut Precision. (I have all three.)

The standard neck finish is satin, but you can order gloss with the Gun Oil Tint finish. I prefer satin, and passed up a great deal on an L-1500 because it had the gloss -- a big mistake in retrospect because it was a nice piece.
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  #4  
Old 11-16-2007, 10:36 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Lancaster, PA
If you don't like the gloss, mask off the sides of the fingerboard, the body joint, and the headstock & sand with a wet/dry sandpaper (or 0000 steel wool). It will knock of the glossy sheen & make it easier. I even went so far on my ASAT as to thin out the finish on the back of the neck in first-third positions (with a more aggressive paper) and then coated it in wax. It has a very soothing, well-broken-in feel now reminiscent of my SB-2.

Warning: some people here may think this is sacriledge.
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  #5  
Old 11-20-2007, 08:44 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Fairfax, VA
Neck and finish

I've noticed the thickness is definitely bigger on my 2500 than many basses I've ever played. It's funny because I remember my guitarist always talking about C necks and D's and Boats, thin and thicker on his Strats compared to Les Pauls..etc. I used to laugh. Who cares "I said". Its true, its has to fit you or you have just get used to different geometry. The newer American Jazzes and Precisions, including the Jazz 5 have 9.25" Radii necks, personally I think, a playing improvement over the 7.25" and that includes the reissues up to the 75. The 12" on Our G&L's feels really good to me. To be honest it took me 2 solid weeks to really get used to it including that fact I moved from an 83 Precision 7.25 radii to the L2500. Woa! The nice thing with the bigger radii, flatter neck, is you can get a slightly better (lower) setup if you like that...you jazz type softer players. I'm somewhere in between. I rock hard but try not to attack too hard. The flatter radii, for me, tends to make 2 Octave showoffs easier to manage without being a garilla!
Steel wool is great for the satin feel. The nice thing is machine rubbing compound (at your local automotive paint supplier and sometimes auto parts store) will bring the gloss right back as these finishes are applied and polished in the same manner as automotive finishes. Laquers and polys rub out beautifully. With the right materials in your hands you can get rid of most wear areas, scratches if they aren't sub surface. I'd have no hesitation to take "00" steelwool to my neck if I wanted. It appears the finishes on the G&l's are quite heavy (thick) to begin with. No worrys with steelwool.
 


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