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  #1  
Old 03-28-2011, 04:39 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Pistoia, Italy
2x6" headbox for a tweeterless 1x15"

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Hi,

I've sold my "tweeterless" 1x15" to a friend of mine and, after some gigs, he came to the conclusion that more mid-high frequencies would "complete" the sound of the cab.
The cab is equipped with a B&C speaker (15PZ40, 4 ohm version) which T/S parameters are the following:

sensitivity (1W/1m)= 97 dB
frequency range= 35-2000 Hz
Pe (max)= 600 Watt RMS
Fs= 39 Hz
Re=5.4 ohm
Qes=0.27
Qms=7.6
Qts=0.26
Vas=137 dm3
Sd=855 cm2
XMax= +/- 8 mm
Mms=125 g
Bl=24.5
Le= 2 mH

He wouldn't like a 2x10" but something more compact so I thought about a smaller cab (than a 2x10") with 2x6" (in parallel to match 4 ohm), specifically two 18Sound 6ND410.
Would this be a good solution? Is a tweeter better than a midrange in this case?
To tell the truth I don't like tweeters with bass cabs, I prefer midranges but, anyway, I would like to have an opinion from the experts.

Regards,

Roberto
  #2  
Old 03-28-2011, 06:23 AM
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Owner, Bill Fitzmaurice Loudspeaker Design
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by washburn_it View Post
To tell the truth I don't like tweeters with bass cabs, I prefer midranges but, anyway, I would like to have an opinion from the experts.

Regards,

Roberto
IMO a midrange is almost always the better option, because no pro-sound woofer is capable of running to the 3.5kHz or higher where a tweeter kicks in, and almost no one needs to go higher than the 8kHz that a midrange driver can provide. A 2x6 would work well, make sure it's either a vertical array or a cross-firing horizontal array. With the low sensitivity of the B&C even one 6ND410 would suffice.
  #3  
Old 03-28-2011, 06:41 AM
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Just add that 18sound 6" driver and build a fEarful.
One will do like billfitzmaurice said.
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  #4  
Old 03-28-2011, 07:28 AM
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Quote:
With the low sensitivity of the B&C even one 6ND410 would suffice.
As far as I know there isn't a 4 ohm version of the 6ND410 so I have to put two of them (8 ohm) in parallel, I could build a L-Pad to "equilibrate" the sensitivity vs the B&C.

Quote:
Just add that 18sound 6" driver and build a fEarful.
My friend has just bought the 1x15" so I don't think he would agree to spend further money for a fEarful.

Thanks, regards.

Roberto

Last edited by washburn_it : 03-28-2011 at 07:45 AM.
  #5  
Old 03-28-2011, 07:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by washburn_it View Post

My friend has just bought the 1x15" so I don't think he would agree to spend further money for a fEarful.
If the 6" can be "added" to the current cabinet he only needs to spend some on the crossover.
It will not be an exact fEarful copy but if the B&C fit's in the current enclosure it could work out pretty well. The crossover might not be optimal for the B&C 15, but allways better then designing one without any knowledge.
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  #6  
Old 03-28-2011, 07:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arjank View Post
If the 6" can be "added" to the current cabinet he only needs to spend some on the crossover.
Unfortunately there isn't enough room to fit the 6" directly in the existent cabinet so a compact external box is the only solution.
The "good news" is that his amp head has got 2 channels (with an electronic crossover) so there is no need for a passive crossover, he would drive the 1x15" with a channel and the "mid" external box with the other.
At the end of the game he would pay for the 6" and for the tolex to cover the box.

Regards,

Roberto
  #7  
Old 03-28-2011, 07:59 AM
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Location: Miami Florida
Quote:
Originally Posted by washburn_it View Post
As far as I know there isn't a 4 ohm version of the 6ND410 so I have to put two of them (8 ohm) in parallel, I could build a L-Pad to "equilibrate" the sensitivity vs the B&C.



My friend has just bought the 1x15" so I don't think he would agree to spend further money for a fEarful.

Thanks, regards.

Roberto
why not just build the crossover to support a 4ohm woofer and 8 ohm mid? or am i off on that? cheaper than putting 2 expensive mids and lpading them down the 4dB or whatever you will have to to make up the difference.
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  #8  
Old 03-28-2011, 08:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by washburn_it View Post
Unfortunately there isn't enough room to fit the 6" directly in the existent cabinet so a compact external box is the only solution.
The "good news" is that his amp head has got 2 channels (with an electronic crossover) so there is no need for a passive crossover, he would drive the 1x15" with a channel and the "mid" external box with the other.
At the end of the game he would pay for the 6" and for the tolex to cover the box.

Regards,

Roberto
That sounds great, an external cab could be the ticket. Does the electronic crossover provide enough flexibilty/range?
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  #9  
Old 03-28-2011, 08:03 AM
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Yeah, what's the amp/preamp?
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  #10  
Old 03-28-2011, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenboy View Post
Yeah, what's the amp/preamp?
It's a Carvin R1000, the max crossover freq. is 800 Hz if I'm correct, so it shouldn't be a problem to cut the mid.
  #11  
Old 03-28-2011, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by washburn_it View Post
It's a Carvin R1000, the max crossover freq. is 800 Hz if I'm correct, so it shouldn't be a problem to cut the mid.
I see, it's sweapable and 12dB/oct. 12 o'clock would be a good starting point, I would stay between 10 and 13 o'clock. Just fiddle around with it. It may also be necessary to invert the 6" plus and minus to get a correct phase response.
For protection I would add a 47uf capacitor in series with the 6" mid, just in case you run the head fullrange and forget to switch the bi-amping on.
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Last edited by Arjank : 03-28-2011 at 08:29 AM.
  #12  
Old 03-28-2011, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arjank View Post
II would stay between 10 and 13 o'clock.
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  #13  
Old 03-29-2011, 12:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Scott View Post
Hehehe, yeah, that looks funny for you guys.
But here in Europe we don't use AM an PM, so it was natural for me to write 13 instead of 1

So again.
I see, it's sweapable and 12dB/oct. 12 o'clock would be a good starting point, I would stay between 10 and 1 o'clock .
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  #14  
Old 03-29-2011, 02:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arjank View Post
Hehehe, yeah, that looks funny for you guys.
But here in Europe we don't use AM an PM
So how do you know when it's time to go to work?
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  #15  
Old 03-29-2011, 02:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lbwdog View Post
So how do you know when it's time to go to work?
Haha, remember, a day has 24hours
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  #16  
Old 03-29-2011, 07:19 AM
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Not over here!
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  #17  
Old 03-29-2011, 07:20 AM
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BTW, wouldn't that be read as 1300 hour or just 13?
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  #18  
Old 03-29-2011, 07:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Scott View Post
BTW, wouldn't that be read as 1300 hour or just 13?
I think 1300 hour is a US Army thing. To us it's just 13
  #19  
Old 03-29-2011, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Matthijs View Post
I think 1300 hour is a US Army thing. To us it's just 13
To be more specific 13:00
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  #20  
Old 03-29-2011, 07:44 AM
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It's 13 but here in Italy (at least) we use to say "it's ONE o'clock"...did we go a bit OT??
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