AD200B Tube problems

**SVE** · #1 07-09-2011, 09:53 PM

I played my very first gig today with my recently purchased used Orange AD200B and its brand new Gold Lion KT88's. It did not end well; thank god for direct in, in the middle of our second song my amp just stopped working and wouldn't make a sound. I took it home and tried it on my 410, it just makes low dark rumbles and when I turn the volume and gain up nothing happens. I was wondering if anyone knew if this was a problem with a fuse or tube? The fuse blown lights are not lit up, but I've experienced low grumbles when a fuse blew before I had my AD200B re-tubed. I have a 90 day warranty on the tubes and the amp, because it was inspected and cleaned out by a somewhat local electronics store. Does anyone here know any sort of diagnoses for what is going on?

Thanks for your time,
-Evan

T-Bird · #2 07-09-2011, 10:39 PM

Hi.

Use the warranty, plain and simple.

Generally any tampering with the amp will void that said warranty. I wouldn't risk it.

Regards
Sam

dukeisdog · #3 07-10-2011, 12:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by T-Bird

Hi.

Use the warranty, plain and simple.

Generally any tampering with the amp will void that said warranty. I wouldn't risk it.

Regards
Sam

Especially since the amp is such an expensive amp. Orange will take care of you.

RickenBoogie · #4 07-10-2011, 08:35 AM

also, when buying a used tube amp, ALWAYS consider the trip to a tech for a check up as part of the price.

AwkwardLoudness · #5 07-10-2011, 01:52 PM

It could be a bad power tube. It's not uncommon for current production tubes to be bad from the factory or fail very early.

There could be a loose solder connection in the power section. The newer so-called 'Orange' AD200 has power tube sockets soldered directly to a PCB board, which is a poor design vulnerable this problem.

I doubt that this is a fuse problem, but you can inspect the fuses to be certain.

The only real Orange amps were built during the Matamp era.

**B-string** · #6 07-10-2011, 03:27 PM

Does it have a serial effects loop? Effect return jack dirty?

fretno · #7 07-10-2011, 03:30 PM

I would probably take it back as well but a simple inspection may give some clues . Are all the power tubes glowing properly for the most part ? It may be a simple as a failed 12ax7 so you could swap those out one at a time if you have any extra around .

BassmanPaul · #8 07-10-2011, 04:13 PM

My first question with any re-tube is: was the bias set appropriately. Just 'cos the amp was looked at by an electronics store doesn't mean that the correct procedures were followed.

**SVE** · #9 07-10-2011, 05:27 PM

What do you mean about the real orange era? Inform me, I'm curious; I always thought Orange and Matamp were different companies. The guy has like some certificate from fender and another company that says he can re-tube amps. I thought it might be a failed tube; it's sort of depressing that this sort of stuff happens with such, for the most part highly acclaimed amps like this Orange AD200B. I also noticed that the distortion is really harsh sounding. I told the guy I was going for a smooth warm classic tube distortion when he was re-tubing it, guess it didn't work out... Thanks for the help guys, I really enjoy all the info!

RickenBoogie · #10 07-10-2011, 05:35 PM

you don't need a guy that "knows how to re-tube" it, you need an actual qualified amp technician. Find one you can trust, and pay the bench fee.

BogeyBass · #11 07-10-2011, 06:08 PM

Sounds like a bad tube, or a bad tube might have taking out a screen resistor.
Or like it has been mentioned the pc mount sockets are horrible.
Even if they look good, They should be retouched with good old lead based solder.
The new ROHS compliant solder is complete garbage it is very brittle and connections break easily , does not belong in a amp

New tubes or tube, resolder all sockets,re bias and check all high power resistors and you should be good.

Check your preamp tubes they always get ignored and might be dead. usually the cheapo sovtecs tubes heaters burn out and get no signal, and the cheapo groovetubes just rattle the mica spacers and get really micro phonic and scratchy sounding.
so visually inspect the heaters and see if they are bright or even working.

if a amp dies in the middle of a set its going lean more towards a power tube or lose wire or failed resistors. its really just a guessing game till you visually inspect it. dont be scared as long as its been off for about a 1hour the caps wont be storing any high voltage.....

JimmyM · #12 07-10-2011, 07:05 PM

Also, Orange amps are known for their somewhat ratty distortion sound. They sound very good clean, but they can get nasty. Either back it down a little or adjust your EQ if you want it a ltitle less ratty.

As for the history of Orange and Matamp, that's what Wikipedia is for. Plenty of info there.

Happy Face · #13 07-10-2011, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimmyM

Also, Orange amps are known for their somewhat ratty distortion sound. They sound very good clean, but they can get nasty.

I've found the opposite to hold. Perhaps I've just been lucky on both of mine.

**SVE** · #14 07-10-2011, 08:25 PM

Happy face - what sort of tubes do you use? The guy said I needed KT88s to compensate for the amps lack of low end? Anyway I just heard gold lion and winged c tubes were the better tubes, so I just picked the gold lions.

JimmyM · #15 07-10-2011, 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Happy Face

I've found the opposite to hold. Perhaps I've just been lucky on both of mine.

Nasty is in the eye of the beholder, bro

I find the sound of Orange amps cranked pretty intense. Maybe that would have been a better choice of words.

demon666 · #16 07-10-2011, 09:28 PM

You want intense? swap out the driver tube for a 12AX7. On your problem it could be a ground issue. The main board in the amp is grounded by a mounting post to the chassis. This may have come loose. It happened to me. Usually caused by vibration

**SVE** · #17 07-10-2011, 10:02 PM

Thanks for the responses! I would also like to add, that the guy who recorded my band, who happens to play bass told me that most professionals slide a piece of thick foam or the top part of a flight case under a tube amp when their playing at roaring volumes. He said that the bass frequencies shake the cabinet and with the head having nothing to brace it, a tube could move out quite easily. What do you guys think? I know I should get a case if I want it in cosmetically fit condition, but the cases are so expensive. (like $300)

JimmyM · #18 07-10-2011, 10:19 PM

A well constructed cab shouldn't vibrate. But since not all cabs are built to that standard, it might help if you're getting a lot of vibrations. Sure does look ugly and I've never done it, though. I have always had very good luck with tube heads without needing any padding under them. YMMV.

demon666 · #19 07-10-2011, 10:20 PM

You can always put your head on a chair or something next to your cab.

**SVE** · #20 07-10-2011, 10:44 PM

It was a club with a very very cheap Hartke 8x10; I doubt it was completely stable.