Adding an independent midrange cabinet to TL-606

JazzbassArt · #1 06-19-2011, 06:04 PM

Currently, I have 2 TL-606, with 3015's. (Not LF's) I stack them vertically. What form would a midrange cabinet take? A pair of Alpha 8MRA's, LA6-CBMR's or only 1? Horizontal or vertical? I intend on bi-amping, using the crossover in a PB-1 and a dedicated amp. Thanks upfront.

rpsands · #2 06-19-2011, 06:14 PM

If you're biamping I'd try a guitar 1x10 or 1x12 before I'd try anything else.

If you're going through the trouble of building a second box I'd suggest strongly that you use mids that aren't close backed - they just sound better.

Some other options:
2 6nd/nm410s (ouch)
2 Eminence Delta Pro 8's
A nice waveguide and a BMS4540Nd (this is probably how I'd go since you're biamping, if you don't want to do a guitar cab).

I'd consider using a dedicated amp that has a built in crossover that's better than the PB-1's (3rd order I believe) and has some corrective DSP if you do the waveguide. Crown XTI's a good bet here.

koobie · #3 06-20-2011, 03:42 PM

Bump from an interested bystander. What's the benefit(s) of any of the above compression drivers over a 6" cone mid? What lo-pass xover point and slope is most desirable for the 3015's?

will33 · #4 06-20-2011, 04:15 PM

15's can play to 800 - 1000hz before they start to beam too much so somewhere in there if maintaining the widest possible dispersion is the goal. If you're willing to trade a bit narrower dispersion pattern in the mids the horndriver/waveguide will take top end response well above the 5-6k that a 6 will lose high reaponse at ( and also start to beam ). Takes a pretty big horn and 2" driver to reach down to 1200 or so. The 3way design covers all the bases but there isn't a whole lot of content in a bass guitar above 6k or so anyway....there's a little that can be dialed in.

OP, your top box could be a pair of 6's vertically aligned as well (one hot one). If you can keep the inductors far enough apart so as not to interfere with each other you could build the whole crossover into the top box and have a low out to connect your 15's with a speaker cable leaving them unmolested old school oneway cabs for times when you're not using the top box.

I'd also say stay away from closedbacks in this case unless you're passing them at 1k or higher. They generally have a high fs and will distort under power.

will33 · #5 06-20-2011, 04:31 PM

Active crossover....duh.

3rd order is fine. Can just mount a pair of 6's in a small sealed box and dial 'em in where they sound good.

will33 · #6 06-20-2011, 04:42 PM

When choosing drivers look at what's going on from 800 - 1k or so and up. Find something that can keep a fairly smooth response while running 97-98db or better to hang with your kappalites.

rpsands · #7 06-20-2011, 05:16 PM

not just any sixes will be hot enough. guitar 8s or 10s, or pro audio 8s or 10s...or the 6nd410 or the beyma 605nd, are the only options.

* or a super nice horn and waveguide. With a good active crossover with dsp (say the XTI) you can get horns very low - pad the output by 10db and a horn will go quite lower than it looks on paper. Helluva lot cheaper to get one nice horn driver than to get two expensive midranges.

One thing to note, there is a still a pair of 6nd410's on ebay for 150 bucks last I checked. that'd be a good way to go.

JazzbassArt · #8 06-21-2011, 07:06 PM

Thanks for all the informative suggestions. I'll take them all to heart, when making a decision. Thanks much. Leigh

DukeLeJeune · #9 06-22-2011, 12:33 AM

I believe that adding a compression driver on a PA-style horn to a pair of Kappalite 3015's (non-LF) is feasible, but would be a significant challenge in the crossover design department.

I think a vertical stack of two high-output midrange drivers, as suggested by will33, is the most promising configuration for the DIYer.

rpsands · #10 06-22-2011, 12:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DukeLeJeune

I believe that adding a compression driver on a PA-style horn to a pair of Kappalite 3015's (non-LF) is feasible, but would be a significant challenge in the crossover design department.

I think a vertical stack of two high-output midrange drivers, as suggested by will33, is the most promising configuration for the DIYer.

Unless the OP is willing to use a DSP capable crossover, I'd tend to agree. Remember, though, that trialing hundreds of different crossover alignments is as simple as hitting enter on your laptop with, say, an XTI power amp. Also, a 24db LR filter is child's play with such a config.

That said, if it were my DIY project, and there were not 6nd410's on Ebay for 150/pair, I would go comp driver unhesitatingly in this situation. Since the OP is committing to using an active crossover of some kind, stepping up to a DSP tool is a minor step.