Amp platform for 8x10 tilt back cab

twinfallsbass · #1 02-28-2011, 05:17 PM

Tried every word combination in " search " and could not come up with anything. I have a MarkBass CL108 and all of my amps fit nicely on top except my Trace Elliot HexaValve, part of the feet are dangling off the edge a little. I really don't feel comfortable with it being this way, long way down from the top and an instant trip to the repair shop. I would like to build a platform to increase the area in my amp sits so my HexaValve will stand sturdy on top of my 8x10. Is there anyone out there who has built something similar? Does anyone have any pics of what they have done? Thanks

twinfallsbass · #2 03-01-2011, 07:10 AM

Sundogue · #3 03-01-2011, 08:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twinfallsbass

Tried every word combination in " search " and could not come up with anything. I have a MarkBass CL108 and all of my amps fit nicely on top except my Trace Elliot HexaValve, part of the feet are dangling off the edge a little. I really don't feel comfortable with it being this way, long way down from the top and an instant trip to the repair shop. I would like to build a platform to increase the area in my amp sits so my HexaValve will stand sturdy on top of my 8x10. Is there anyone out there who has built something similar? Does anyone have any pics of what they have done? Thanks

Screw the rubber feet in the amphead case further in, so they match the top of the cab. It doesn't matter if the amphead case itself extends out past the rubber feet.

Just move the amphead case's feet in further. Simple matter of unscrewing them and screwing them in closer. No one is going to see the old screw holes. Problem solved.

fenderhutz · #4 03-01-2011, 08:35 AM

Don't know where the Markbass handles are but a black bungee cable over the top handle to handle would help.

jastacey · #5 03-01-2011, 09:31 AM

I had the same issue with my Fender Bassman 300, when using a Ampeg 810 cabinet, what I did, I cut a piece of 3/4" plywood, based on the size of the amp and used it as a platform, first measure the amp's rubber feet spacing width wise, then Measure from the front of the cabinet to 1" beyond the cabinet handle, make sure your amp's rubber feet does NOT project beyond the back edge, if it does make the board deeper, basicly you want the board about 1" wider & deeper than the amps footprint, the important part is to aquire the ampeg SVT's rubber feet from "fliptops" you will need 6, mount the front 4 so they center the board on top of the cabinet ( you will be installing the front 4 feet, so they line up with the corner sockets on top of the cabinet ) then position the back 2 rubber feet so they are centered on the back cabinet handle, the feet will keep the board from sliding around on the top of the cabinet, to align the rubber feet so they line up, into the cabinets sockets, used double sided sticky tape, I tried using a piece of wood on the back ( instead of using the 2 rubber feet ) and at louder volumes, the platform had an annoying buzz/rattle .... basically you'll have a board, about the size of the top of the cabinet with rubber feet that aligns/locks the board into the proper position, the weight of the amp will make the board very hard to move, you can still use the "Basshanger" .... it seems pretty complicated, but it's a pretty easy project

Sundogue · #6 03-01-2011, 09:36 AM

Wouldn't it just be easier to screw the rubber feet further in? Just because the manufacturer put the rubber feet where they are doesn't mean they have to stay there. And moving them in more is not going to make the head unstable...certainly not the little bit required for all four feet to make contact with the top of the cab.

No need to make this more complicated than it is. Just move the rubber feet in. It's so easy that it would take less time to do it than it did for me to type this. Problem solved.

jastacey · #7 03-01-2011, 09:41 AM

I agree in moving the feet in, but when dealing with Vintage amps, doing so will affect the value of the amp ...trust me, there are people who place a value, on an unmolested amp ...IMHO

Sundogue · #8 03-01-2011, 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jastacey

I agree in moving the feet in, but when dealing with Vintage amps, doing so will affect the value of the amp ...trust me, there are people who place a value, on an unmolested amp ...IMHO

Then leave the feet where they are and buy two (or four) more rubber feet that stick on (and stay on until you want them off) instead of screwing. Far easier solution and won't affect the vintage resale value because they are easily removed without blemish.

I move rubber feet all over on my cabs and heads to make them work for me. Of course, little screw holes don't bother me in the slightest because I rarely stare at my amp when I'm playing.

twinfallsbass · #9 03-01-2011, 10:37 AM

Hi, thanks for all the reply's. The problem with moving the feet is that they are not screwed in by wood screws, they screw into a countersunk receptacle inside the amp. I am definitely in the " unmolested amp " camp and don't want to drill into it if I don't have to. Your advice is sound, and makes total sense, it just won't work in my application.

twinfallsbass · #10 03-01-2011, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sundogue

Then leave the feet where they are and buy two (or four) more rubber feet that stick on (and stay on until you want them off) instead of screwing. Far easier solution and won't affect the vintage resale value because they are easily removed without blemish.

I move rubber feet all over on my cabs and heads to make them work for me. Of course, little screw holes don't bother me in the slightest because I rarely stare at my amp when I'm playing.

I re-read your post, I don't mind the adhesive feet idea, will have to look into that

twinfallsbass · #11 03-01-2011, 10:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jastacey

I had the same issue with my Fender Bassman 300, when using a Ampeg 810 cabinet, what I did, I cut a piece of 3/4" plywood, based on the size of the amp and used it as a platform, first measure the amp's rubber feet spacing width wise, then Measure from the front of the cabinet to 1" beyond the cabinet handle, make sure your amp's rubber feet does NOT project beyond the back edge, if it does make the board deeper, basicly you want the board about 1" wider & deeper than the amps footprint, the important part is to aquire the ampeg SVT's rubber feet from "fliptops" you will need 6, mount the front 4 so they center the board on top of the cabinet ( you will be installing the front 4 feet, so they line up with the corner sockets on top of the cabinet ) then position the back 2 rubber feet so they are centered on the back cabinet handle, the feet will keep the board from sliding around on the top of the cabinet, to align the rubber feet so they line up, into the cabinets sockets, used double sided sticky tape, I tried using a piece of wood on the back ( instead of using the 2 rubber feet ) and at louder volumes, the platform had an annoying buzz/rattle .... basically you'll have a board, about the size of the top of the cabinet with rubber feet that aligns/locks the board into the proper position, the weight of the amp will make the board very hard to move, you can still use the "Basshanger" .... it seems pretty complicated, but it's a pretty easy project

This is what I am talking about, looks great. Any chance you have a pic from the back of the amp?

Caca de Kick · #12 03-01-2011, 11:05 AM

Adhesive feet won't work, they'll just fall right off next time you drag the amp into position.

Seriously, install an additional set of feet. A Trace is a great amp, but its not burning up any vintage market...Trace isn't considered "vintage". Besides, if the amp falls off and crashes to the ground, then the damage from that will be far greater then 4 tiny holes from mounting feet.

Sundogue · #13 03-01-2011, 12:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Caca de Kick

Adhesive feet won't work, they'll just fall right off next time you drag the amp into position.

Seriously, install an additional set of feet. A Trace is a great amp, but its not burning up any vintage market...Trace isn't considered "vintage". Besides, if the amp falls off and crashes to the ground, then the damage from that will be far greater then 4 tiny holes from mounting feet.

Yes, adhesive feet will work. You may need to get them from a hardware store and look for ones with "industrial adhesive". I've found ones that I have a hard time purposely trying to take off after applying. You'll never knock them off. I've even put them on the sides of my cabs (to be able to turn them sideways for speaker alignment, leaving on the existing ones on the bottom) and even with knocking cabs into things, they've never fallen off in years of use/abuse.

However, if your amp isn't really vintage, some tiny screw holes aren't going to matter at all and it is the simplest solution. If the amp case is all metal then look into the adhesive kind and take the screwed in ones out if you have to (just keep them somewhere you'll remember).

DaZombieWoof · #14 03-01-2011, 12:13 PM

The extraordinarily expensive approach is to have a tubualr frame like the old Vox stuff to hold the cab and the head. That would even allow you to to tilt back angles for the cab as desired. Don't think hearing yourself with a fridge cab would be the issue though.

twinfallsbass · #15 03-01-2011, 12:54 PM

Got some good advice and will make a decision on what options I have been given. As far as Trace Elliot value comment, I believe there are only about 24 of these HexaValves in the U.S. You can't get much more rare than that and these don't stay on the market that long, you just don't hear to much about them because of their rarity. By many, they are considered the " Holy Grail " of Trace heads